I'm not sure of the problem. It doesn't sound like the fuel pump is turning on, so I'm hoping it is the main relay.
The car is a 1991 civic Si with a D16z6 and OBD1 conversion harness with a p28 ecu, and saturated OBD0 injectors.
The car just cranks away.
I know this is a very vauge topic and I have looked through the FAQ and the no start thread, just looking for some extra help.
I'll take videos or whatever if anyone thinks it'll help.

 

did u get the harness adapter for the dizzy?

 

Yes. I made an adapter.

 

did you check for spark?....I know this doesn't have to do with your starting but why did you switch to saturated injectors??

 

I just used the injectors that were in the car when I got it. They use a resistor box, that's saturated right? I may be wrong.

 

If you are running OBD1 ECU you must use OBD1 or OBD2 injectors which are saturated. Running peak and hold injectors(obd0) on a saturated ecu(obd1-2) will cause some troubles down the road. You may have fried your ECU already causing a no start.

Saturated and peak and hold are not compatible! Interchanging the different style injectors can result in slower delivery rate, overheating of the injector or driver and even engine damage!

You should rewire your harness to eliminate the resistor box since its only good for peak and hold injectors which are OBD0 or anything above 500cc. You said you converted to obd1 so why not the injectors? Your causing problems this way





Modified by alscrx at 5:35 PM 11/26/2007

 

I have some OBD1 injectors as well. I guess I'll put those in?

Any help on the not starting issue?

 

u CAN use the obd0 injectors only if u have the resistor box if u use obd1 injectors u have to eliminate the resistor box u said u made a dizzy harness adaptor try switchin the 2 white wires around in the harness that goes to the dizzy thats alot of peoples problems try that and see what happens i converted to obd1 and still using the obd0 injectors and havent had a problem yet (knock on wood) been that way for ever a year now

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alscrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you are running OBD1 ECU you must use OBD1 or OBD2 injectors which are saturated. Running peak and hold injectors(obd0) on a saturated ecu(obd1-2) will cause some troubles down the road. You may have fried your ECU already causing a no start.

Saturated and peak and hold are not compatible! Interchanging the different style injectors can result in slower delivery rate, overheating of the injector or driver and even engine damage!

You should rewire your harness to eliminate the resistor box since its only good for peak and hold injectors which are OBD0 or anything above 500cc. You said you converted to obd1 so why not the injectors? Your causing problems this way

Modified by alscrx at 5:35 PM 11/26/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry but this information is incorrect....your injectors use a resistor box which is peak and hold if they don't have a resistor box they are saturated....you can run peak and hold OBD1 and will have no problems I have been doing it for over two years without the slightest problem

 

I don't think the white wires are mis matched, because i looked at many diagrams while making them. But I will try it.
Thanks for all the help guys.
Any ideas about the fuel pump? Does the main relay just randomly go out?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alscrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you are running OBD1 ECU you must use OBD1 or OBD2 injectors which are saturated. Running peak and hold injectors(obd0) on a saturated ecu(obd1-2) will cause some troubles down the road. You may have fried your ECU already causing a no start.

Saturated and peak and hold are not compatible! Interchanging the different style injectors can result in slower delivery rate, overheating of the injector or driver and even engine damage!

You should rewire your harness to eliminate the resistor box since its only good for peak and hold injectors which are OBD0 or anything above 500cc. You said you converted to obd1 so why not the injectors? Your causing problems this way</TD></TR></TABLE>

Incorrect, you will only fry your ECU if you use the peak and hold injectors w/o a resistor box. using the OBD 0 injectors will cause no problems what so ever as long as you run the resistor box with them. The OBD 0 injectors have very little resistance and that's why the box is needed to not fry the ECU, OBD 1 and newer have alot more resistance basically doing the job of the resistor box w/o the box. I have run both ways with no probs what so ever, I am running OBD2 injectors now simply to clean up the bay some by removing the r.box and because I like the harness plugs better cause you don't need to mess with any stupid clips like on the obd1 and obd0 plugs.

 

something simple that i messed up was i did not hook up all of the grounds in the back side of the engine, i had the same problem no spark or fuel but would crank away.

 

Hmm. I'll take a look at that. Thanks!

 

im also obd1 with obd-0 injectors and resistor box no issues. have you done a trouble diagnostics on the dizzy? ive had a couple engines come with fubar'd dizzys.

 

Haven't messed with the dizzy, the guy said everything was running before he pulled it. I'll probably check it out though. Wish the car was at my house. It's stays at a friend's house...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Harlowe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Haven't messed with the dizzy, the guy said everything was running before he pulled it. I'll probably check it out though. Wish the car was at my house. It's stays at a friend's house...</TD></TR></TABLE>

do you trust the guy? a recent pull showed that 95% of douche bags say "the engine ran before I pulled it", no matter what state it's in.

 

I dunnoz. I'm going to work on it today after work, if I can't get it started I'm getting it towed to my house within a week or so.

 

Good luck...I'm having the same issues now with my CRX.

 

Working on getting a compression tester now. Just to check that off the "what could be messed up" list. Next time I go to my car I'm going to check spark too, and probably test the main relay, and grounds.

 

if the fuel pump isn't powering on with key at "on" then check your alternator fuse under the dash, common to blow during a swap... If your not getting spark make sure your dizzy is wired as so... FAT white wire to green/yel wire, thin white to thin white. That's the most common f'up. The two white wires on your factory harness are ALMOST the same size, but if you examine closely one is slightly bigger. Don't pay attention to forementioned injector chatter, you have it right...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VtecSyndrome &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Incorrect, you will only fry your ECU if you use the peak and hold injectors w/o a resistor box. using the OBD 0 injectors will cause no problems what so ever as long as you run the resistor box with them. The OBD 0 injectors have very little resistance and that's why the box is needed to not fry the ECU, OBD 1 and newer have alot more resistance basically doing the job of the resistor box w/o the box. I have run both ways with no probs what so ever, I am running OBD2 injectors now simply to clean up the bay some by removing the r.box and because I like the harness plugs better cause you don't need to mess with any stupid clips like on the obd1 and obd0 plugs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Whats incorrect if you said the same exact thing i said???