FAQ: How to change the transmission fluid in a manual D-Series Tranny (Pictures).
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From: I moved far away from cornz fieldz, IL
Well I kind of got back on the horse of taking care of my DD. Just got done changing the timing belt and water pump, and I felt like doing some more. This is not by any means a difficult DIY. It took me maybe thirty minutes, and I did it will hardly any tools. I have done this before so I learned shortcuts the first time. I change my transmission fluid about every 50,000 miles. It may be overkill but its so easy to do, and if it has any impact on how many miles I get out the the transmission why the hell not? This tranny is off a D16Y8 motor but I assume all D-Series trannys' will be the same or close. I used pennzoil synchromesh manual transmission fluid. Search for what you want to use, this is what I chose, and I like it. As always I am not liable for you damaging your vehicle while doing this, so lets get started.

Tools I used: 3/8" ratchet with two extensions to reach the drain bolt, and a 17mm socket to remove the fluid check bolt. Also a drain pain, and any leverage extensions you need to get the bolts off. Also a funnel, and maybe a longer tube to make it easier.

Next, jack up the car and remove the passenger side tire. Then place a drain pan under the transmission, and get ready to drain the old fluid.


The above pictures show where the drain bolt is. The first is the view from the brake rotor and the second is the up close view. Notice it takes a 3/8" drive to remove it.


Above is what I used to get that bolt removed. Two different extensions got the job done. Make sure the drain pan is underneath so you do not make a mess.

The old fluid on its way out. Once the old is out, replace the drain plug and move the drain pain over to the left to catch spillage for when you put the new fluid in. Now you can work on top of the car. You could at this point put the tire back on and drop the car down but I did not so I could take more pictures.

What the filler bolt looks like from underneath, notice just to the left of the axle.

Filler bolt from the top.

What I used to get said bolt loose. I used a 17mm socket, 3/8" ratchet, and a steel pipe, and 1/2" 10" extension for maximum leverage. She finally came loose.




Now its time to hook up the funnel to easily get the new fluid in. First three are from the top, the fourth is from the bottom. You can also use a clean rubber hose for a longer and easier reach but I misplaced mine.


Once the funnel tube is in the hole go ahead and pour in the new fluid. Pictures show just that. You know the tranny case is full when the new fluid starts to come out. Do not put the bolt in until the car is level or off the jacks so you know for sure the fluid level is right. Once you have done this go ahead and put the bolt back in

Filler/ Fluid Check bolt back in and tightened. Go ahead and clean off any spilled fluid. Empty the old fluid into a disposal can.
Tighten/Torque your lug nuts, and go out for a drive. If you have not changed the fluid in a long time you may feel a difference.
***Just a reminder the final check for the correct fluid level is when the car is on a level surface. If the transmission is at an angle you will not have enough fluid.
***Also, check for any metal shavings throughout this process, if you find some time to do some research.
I hope this helps anyone who has not done this. I probably took to many pictures, but I like them when I do my DIY jobs so I did it here. Feel free to add comments, concerns, or add additional information.

Tools I used: 3/8" ratchet with two extensions to reach the drain bolt, and a 17mm socket to remove the fluid check bolt. Also a drain pain, and any leverage extensions you need to get the bolts off. Also a funnel, and maybe a longer tube to make it easier.

Next, jack up the car and remove the passenger side tire. Then place a drain pan under the transmission, and get ready to drain the old fluid.


The above pictures show where the drain bolt is. The first is the view from the brake rotor and the second is the up close view. Notice it takes a 3/8" drive to remove it.


Above is what I used to get that bolt removed. Two different extensions got the job done. Make sure the drain pan is underneath so you do not make a mess.

The old fluid on its way out. Once the old is out, replace the drain plug and move the drain pain over to the left to catch spillage for when you put the new fluid in. Now you can work on top of the car. You could at this point put the tire back on and drop the car down but I did not so I could take more pictures.

What the filler bolt looks like from underneath, notice just to the left of the axle.

Filler bolt from the top.

What I used to get said bolt loose. I used a 17mm socket, 3/8" ratchet, and a steel pipe, and 1/2" 10" extension for maximum leverage. She finally came loose.




Now its time to hook up the funnel to easily get the new fluid in. First three are from the top, the fourth is from the bottom. You can also use a clean rubber hose for a longer and easier reach but I misplaced mine.


Once the funnel tube is in the hole go ahead and pour in the new fluid. Pictures show just that. You know the tranny case is full when the new fluid starts to come out. Do not put the bolt in until the car is level or off the jacks so you know for sure the fluid level is right. Once you have done this go ahead and put the bolt back in

Filler/ Fluid Check bolt back in and tightened. Go ahead and clean off any spilled fluid. Empty the old fluid into a disposal can.
Tighten/Torque your lug nuts, and go out for a drive. If you have not changed the fluid in a long time you may feel a difference.
***Just a reminder the final check for the correct fluid level is when the car is on a level surface. If the transmission is at an angle you will not have enough fluid.
***Also, check for any metal shavings throughout this process, if you find some time to do some research.
I hope this helps anyone who has not done this. I probably took to many pictures, but I like them when I do my DIY jobs so I did it here. Feel free to add comments, concerns, or add additional information.
nice write up. i used that same funnel to fill my tranny. removing the tire is unnecessary tho imo. i used honda mtf too. im not a fan of synchromesh but im sure it works fine.
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From: I moved far away from cornz fieldz, IL
I took the tire off so I did not have to get under the car because I did not use jacks, and I wanted to take pictures. Thanks though for the
!!
!!
ah ic. im sure the pics were easier to take with out the tire there too lol. sorry if i sounded like i was criticizing you. i didnt mean it like that.
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From: I moved far away from cornz fieldz, IL
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DCSportEJ1Civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ah ic. im sure the pics were easier to take with out the tire there too lol. sorry if i sounded like i was criticizing you. i didnt mean it like that.</TD></TR></TABLE> None taken my friend!
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Nice, write up. I don't bother removing the plug any more to fill the tranny back up. It just makes a mess, so I remove the vehicle speed sensor and fill it from their.
Thread Starter
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From: I moved far away from cornz fieldz, IL
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goforbroke »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice, write up. I don't bother removing the plug any more to fill the tranny back up. It just makes a mess, so I remove the vehicle speed sensor and fill it from their.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ah damnit, I forgot that you could fill it back up this way. I just would worry that some people would not do their homework, and put way to much fluid back in.
Thanks for the comments!!
Ah damnit, I forgot that you could fill it back up this way. I just would worry that some people would not do their homework, and put way to much fluid back in.
Thanks for the comments!!
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,550
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From: I moved far away from cornz fieldz, IL
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by themikewoo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice write up. Should be put in the FAQ list.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Done, thanks!
Done, thanks!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goforbroke »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice, write up. I don't bother removing the plug any more to fill the tranny back up. It just makes a mess, so I remove the vehicle speed sensor and fill it from their.</TD></TR></TABLE>
same goes here
same goes here
i was wondering because i just purchased some blox magnetic plugs for my tranny and oil pan. i dont get why the tranny magnetic plug would be at the top and not at the bottom of the tranny where the drain plug is. the point of having magnetic plugs is to get all the metal shavings out but wouldnt they sink to the bottom?
oh yeah also where is the vehicle speed sensor? dont wanna make a mess. also if i go from the vss how can i tell if its full if i dont take out the level plug?? certain amount?
thanks
thanks
Also, if you refill from the speedsensor, you can add an additional quart. My freinds dad works on the Honda Race Team, he builds there trannies. He was the person that told me this was a good idea. Just make sure that if you get your eng oil changed at a shop like Jiffy lube or where every, make sure you tell them not to remove the check plug on the trans. Otherwise they will be in for a surprise. Anyways, I have been running my EJ1 like this for 200k miles now and haven't had any problems. That and I only use the honda man trans fluid.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goforbroke »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice, write up. I don't bother removing the plug any more to fill the tranny back up. It just makes a mess, so I remove the vehicle speed sensor and fill it from their.</TD></TR></TABLE>



