Killtodie

I'll was my car soon, will be using the xzylon or whatever that blue bottle is called.

Question about directions, says to apply and buff lightly, then it says for best appearnce buff before it dries and then it says to wet the car a little and buff lightly.

now, when wetting the car, is that the first buff before the wax dries or after a light buff, wet and buff again?

any other tips would be awesome

mrtrinh

im not sure about wetting the car, but I usually apply wax, buff, let it set for a few minutes, buff off. the car still looks sexy as the day i got it

katzenjammer84

Are you just talking about waxing the car? I don't recommend using a random orbital to "buff" the wax on and off. For one it does nothing for shine or finish, you'll get the same results as hand waxing. Also, it's unneccssary heat and friction against your clearcoat.

It sounds like they want you to wipe it off before it's cured, thereby smearing it around aimlessly, then to be wiped off again with a dry towel. Sounds like a tremendous waste of time.

For a quick detail:

1) Give it a good rinse
2) Wash it (make sure your sponges and water are clean, special care on dark colors), then rinse
3) While the car is still wet, clay the car thoroughly then rinse.
4) Dry. If you don't have an air hose, let the car sit and drip dry after chamois to avoid having to fight with water on the paint.
5) Wax it using a good quality PASTE wax (liquid wax is garbage for durability, but excels in "shine"). Do a couple panels at a time, I'll usually do a side, then wipe it off. DON'T APPLY IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT and use a clean microfiber, not a terry cloth.
6) A good spray wax or "flash" liquid wax follow up will remove any paste wax residue and will shine things up a bit.

I really don't recommend buffing your car unless you have scratches that need removing or your clearcoat is severly faded. You can only buff paint so many times in it's life before you've gradually reduced the clearcoat down to nothing.

A good substituion for buffing is a quality handglaze (3M Hand Glaze works awesome), just make sure you know what you're doing.




Modified by AcuraFanatic at 2:18 AM 6/1/2007

Killtodie

explain to me what a clay bar does again? i can never remember if its for tough dirt or dents or?>?

OSK Automotive

It gets rid of all the dirt/other things that just washing can't. If you haven't clay bar'd before and your car has a few years on it, try washing and drying it than run your hand over the paint. There's a good chance that it won't feel smooth and will have sort of a gritty feel. Next use a clay bar per the instructions on the box (i've used both mothers and meguiers, both are good) dry again and than feel. There should be a significant difference depending on how bad the surface was to begin with.

Listen to what AcuraFanatic said....imo it's right on.

katzenjammer84

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Killtodie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">explain to me what a clay bar does again? i can never remember if its for tough dirt or dents or?&gt;?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Rail fallout, brake dust, and road tar are the main offenders. These materials are so abrasive that they stick and get lodged into the clearcoat, unable to be removed by a conventional car wash.

It also does a good job of removing bugs or some stains. It's a good tool to use even if your paint feels smooth, as it removes any old compounds or waxes that were on the clearcoat allowing you to have a fresh surface to work with.

It takes a while to get the hang of it. Couple recommendations:

1) Keep it off dirty surfaces when in storage, as it will pickup those contaminents.
2) You can never "knead" the clay enough, keep stretching and folding it upon itself. The cleaner the surface, the better.
3) If you hear a squeaking noise while going over the surface, the surface either needs to be rinsed again or the clay is dirty.
4) Pay special close attention to the bottom of the doors, fenders and the bumpers, as they will be the dirtiest.

Killtodie

bought mothers brand clay

went to a manuel wash, clear rinsed, did the hood with the bar and one quater panel, rinsed again. sun set, cant see results, will look at it tomorrow

katzenjammer84

You're not gonna really see the results until you wax it.

Nothing2Lose

so i have a nhbp and everytime i wax i get swirl marks.. im thinking of using a buffer everytime i wax now. whats wrong with random orbital buffers? if u have any tips to prevent these swirls marks, let me know.

katzenjammer84

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nothing2Lose &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so i have a nhbp and everytime i wax i get swirl marks.. im thinking of using a buffer everytime i wax now. whats wrong with random orbital buffers? if u have any tips to prevent these swirls marks, let me know.</TD></TR></TABLE>

There's nothing wrong with them, I just don't like them. It is tempting for enthusiasts to go out and buy these machines thinking that will give them a professional finish... but the oscillating machines don't really do anything you can't do more safely by hand, and will not eliminate any problems you have with your finish.

There's streaking from wax not being taken off completely, then there's swirl marks from being washed improperly (spiderwebbing), then there's swirls left from buffers.

If you're leaving a haze behind, try to follow up your waxing with a second clean microfiber. If your paint is really dry, black will always look like ****, even with a fresh coat of wax.

If it looks anything like below then it's just wear and tear. Black is a horrible color to have if you're OCD because it is insanely time consuming to keep it looking perfect.



Something like that can be lessened with a hand glaze, or in combination with a light polishing compound in conjunction with a buffer.

I did an '03 black RSX that was so bad I ended up spending a weekend wetsanding the entire car, then buffing the entire thing out with 3 different pads and two different compounds.

You can bring most paint back, but learning how to keep it maintained properly aleviates the need to waste time like that.


Modified by AcuraFanatic at 4:18 AM 6/1/2007

Nothing2Lose

hmm.. im guessing its from wax not completely taken off.. cuz i'm pretty sure i'm washing it correctly. i'm rinsing the cloth frequently. and when i wax, i dont use a circular motion but a lateral. thats what people have said to do. is that the proper way to wax? next time i will try to wipe it down again with a microfiber cloth after waxing.. thanks for the info

Killtodie

when i get home i will wash car by hand, got mr. clean
will use the clay bar on the whole car
then i'll apply wax, whats the best material to apply with and buff with?

Boost_Junkie

wash, clay, wax

Killtodie

what cloth though? terry or micro?

Newborn_

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AcuraFanatic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> 5) Wax it using a good quality PASTE wax (liquid wax is garbage for durability, but excels in "shine"). Do a couple panels at a time, I'll usually do a side, then wipe it off. DON'T APPLY IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT and use a clean microfiber, not a terry cloth.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

mogwai

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AcuraFanatic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> 5) Wax it using a good quality PASTE wax (liquid wax is garbage for durability, but excels in "shine"). Do a couple panels at a time, I'll usually do a side, then wipe it off. DON'T APPLY IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT and use a clean microfiber, not a terry cloth. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I have to disagree with you. It's actually the other way around. Paste waxes are generally carnauba waxes which suck in terms of durability, but great in terms of shine. Within 30 days of applying carnauba, 50% of it is gone. Liquid waxes are generally synthetic (or polyemer based) and last much longer than carnauba paste waxes. Manufacturers say about 6 months, but realistically speaking, it's more like 3 to 4 months.

Now... if I had to choose one, I would go with the Carnauba paste wax and apply it once a month since it generally gives the better shine. I like to layer my waxes, so I actually use both. For a full detail I usually go: wash, clay, wash, swirl remover, polish, sealant, and top it off with a good carnauba. I like to do that once every 6 months. I maintain the shine by reapplying the Carnauba once a month.

katzenjammer84

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mogwai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have to disagree with you. It's actually the other way around. Paste waxes are generally carnauba waxes which suck in terms of durability, but great in terms of shine. Within 30 days of applying carnauba, 50% of it is gone. Liquid waxes are generally synthetic (or polyemer based) and last much longer than carnauba paste waxes. Manufacturers say about 6 months, but realistically speaking, it's more like 3 to 4 months.

Now... if I had to choose one, I would go with the Carnauba paste wax and apply it once a month since it generally gives the better shine. I like to layer my waxes, so I actually use both. For a full detail I usually go: wash, clay, wash, swirl remover, polish, sealant, and top it off with a good carnauba. I like to do that once every 6 months. I maintain the shine by reapplying the Carnauba once a month. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not sure if there's a general rule or not, and I guess it can be dependant on brand, but those are just my observations.

To the user, try both and see what you like.

Todd00

Good Stuff. I FAQ'd.

Killtodie

so I spent a good 4 hours waxing, washing, clay baring and everything else.

looks good in the end, finished just 2 hours before a thunderstorm.


the clay couldnt get off some certain smudges and i have a LOT of chips and cracks in my paint...

notices that my left rear quater panel has a lot if micro fractures, but oh well

mogwai

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AcuraFanatic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not sure if there's a general rule or not, and I guess it can be dependant on brand, but those are just my observations. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's true, alot of it can be dependent on the brand; not to mention, climate and weather conditions, proper application, etc... But in general, that's the way Carnauba paste and synthetic liquid waxes work. Honestly, as much as people love Meguair's, I think their durability suck in both cases. LOL Once I tried brands outside of the typical Meg's and Mothers, I have never looked back. I use brands like Poorboy's, Clearkote, Chemical Guys, and P21S. Plus you can apply those first three brands in the sun. All of them come off smooth like butter too.

Anyways, I'm glad you're trying out stuff to know what you see and like. As I tell all my friends, that's what detailing is all about.

Nothing2Lose

^ yea i heard alot of good things about poorboy's wax. might have to try that once my current wax is used up

sundownz

Just a note... clay barring RULES. I've never done it before but it did *amazing* things for me so far... I removed tremendous amounts of nasty looking spots yesterday -- they looked like permanent water spots. So far the hood and trunk lid are done and they look fantastic!

I followed it up with McGuires liquid wax and so far the two panels I've done look amazing considering the cars age.

portaman03

^^^ pics?

da1lydr1ver

what is the difference between a glaze and a sealer? yes, i'm a noob.

also, i've been looking for better waxes than the typical store brought ones. since it was mentioned above... which brand would you guys prefer? Poor Boys, Clearkote, Chemical Guys?

oh yea, i would prefer something thats good, but durable also.

thanks

mogwai

A glaze if pretty much like a polish. Polishes generally contain light abrasives and glazes contain fillers. There are some exceptions, depending on the manufacturer, etc... In my eyes they're pretty much the same.

A Sealant forms a thin protective layer over the paint. Generally, you would use a polish or a glaze and then seal it up with a sealant. Most sealants are synthetic waxes made of acrylic polymers.

Of the four brands I mentioned, I would choose Poorboy's as my all time favorite. But the reality is, I like different types of products from each. For example, I love Pooyboy's EX for darker cars and EX-P sealants for lighter cars. These sealants have great durability. As for polishes, I like Clearkote Vanilla Moose and Red Machine Glaze. A good combo (especially for Rallye Red... LOL) is Red Machine Glaze sealed with EX-P.