94 - 96 honda accord 4 cyl. cluster gauge info
05-17-2007, 06:13 PM
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94 - 96 honda accord 4 cyl. cluster gauge info
Does any one know or can link me to a website that shows me a step by step of how to removing and install a cluster gauge for 94 accord? Please help
thanks
thanks
05-17-2007, 06:17 PM
#2
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http://ledautomotive.com/HowTo...o.asp read the whole thing first. but before this click on that link. How to remove the climate control This was suppose to be how to change the cluster lights. Anyways good site FOR LED for Accords. or any other cars.
05-17-2007, 07:02 PM
#3
It's a bitch to get to the cluster.
I'll make a list of what needs to be removed:
1) Inside arm rest, open the small panel at the bottom and remove those two screws
2) Pull up on cup holder (should pop out) there is one screw at an ANGLE at the front of the opening, ignore the two ones in the middle, remove that one angled screw
3) Pull up the ebrake if it's not already up and the entire armrest/cupholder piece should slide back and up (move it around the ebrake)
4) Two screws are in front of you now near the ebrake and behind the shifter on the black piece, remove those
5) Pull out the ash tray (straight out) and remove the screw above the OBD II connector
6) Pull out the Coin Holder, remove the screw behind that and pull off the steering column cover (about 8 clips)
7) The black center console should be loose now, kinda lift it up and out - there's two clips holding it near the radio
8) Unclip the lighter , clock, hazards, and fog connectors at the top and put the piece aside
9) Remove the two screws at the base of the radio (near the OBDII connector) and pull the radio out - unplug the main harness and the antenna
10) It should look pretty empty at this point, remove the two screws on the left side of the tan part of the center console (one up by AC controls, one below near bottom of steering column)
11) Kinda weird part, Open the glove box, there's two screws on the center console in similar areas, I was able to fanangle my way in there to remove them, take out both of these.
12) Remove the two upper screws on the center console (silver and hex head)
13) The center console should now be free to be pulled out (you MAY need to remove your glove box - two screws on bottom + clipped on arm on the right side)
14) Put your hand on the back of the dash and pop out the Dimmer, Cruise/Sunroof, and defrost switches - behind the Cruise/Sunroof is a screw - remove that, behind the defrost is a screw - remove that as well
15) Look up under the Heating / AC controls where the clock/hazards used to be, you should see two small screws - remove those
16) Lower the steering wheel all the way and remove the two screws recessed where the cluster is
17) Congrats (haha) you can now pop out the black trim that holds everything in there, if you want you can just swing it carefully into your passenger footwell (what I do) or unclip/screw the heating/ac cable and pull it out
18) Now, you should see your naked dash, 4 gold screws hold in the cluster (2 on each side), remove these
19) CAREFULLY pull the cluster foward, there's three harnesses that attach to it, no way to describe what I did, but manuever it around to unclip those and pull it out, be careful as the cluster plastic can break easily
20) To take apart the cluster, remove the light bulb that connects to the top of it (there's two wires so just follow them) now there's two clips on the bottom and three on the top, carefully press all those in and the clear covering should slide off.
21) Removal of gauges and what not - Pull up on the flat covering that has the labels on it (it probably is already loose) this should expose everything else.
- Turn the cluster around this is what everything is:
1) Three screws hold in the Temp Gauge and Fuel Gauge
2) Four screws hold in the Speedo and the Tach
There are NO wires going to these pieces, I believe the power is transferred through the screws, so don't lose any and don't damage anything.
I may try to post pics up later since that's a pretty detailed explaination. Accord FAQ worthy haha
I'll make a list of what needs to be removed:
1) Inside arm rest, open the small panel at the bottom and remove those two screws
2) Pull up on cup holder (should pop out) there is one screw at an ANGLE at the front of the opening, ignore the two ones in the middle, remove that one angled screw
3) Pull up the ebrake if it's not already up and the entire armrest/cupholder piece should slide back and up (move it around the ebrake)
4) Two screws are in front of you now near the ebrake and behind the shifter on the black piece, remove those
5) Pull out the ash tray (straight out) and remove the screw above the OBD II connector
6) Pull out the Coin Holder, remove the screw behind that and pull off the steering column cover (about 8 clips)
7) The black center console should be loose now, kinda lift it up and out - there's two clips holding it near the radio
8) Unclip the lighter , clock, hazards, and fog connectors at the top and put the piece aside
9) Remove the two screws at the base of the radio (near the OBDII connector) and pull the radio out - unplug the main harness and the antenna
10) It should look pretty empty at this point, remove the two screws on the left side of the tan part of the center console (one up by AC controls, one below near bottom of steering column)
11) Kinda weird part, Open the glove box, there's two screws on the center console in similar areas, I was able to fanangle my way in there to remove them, take out both of these.
12) Remove the two upper screws on the center console (silver and hex head)
13) The center console should now be free to be pulled out (you MAY need to remove your glove box - two screws on bottom + clipped on arm on the right side)
14) Put your hand on the back of the dash and pop out the Dimmer, Cruise/Sunroof, and defrost switches - behind the Cruise/Sunroof is a screw - remove that, behind the defrost is a screw - remove that as well
15) Look up under the Heating / AC controls where the clock/hazards used to be, you should see two small screws - remove those
16) Lower the steering wheel all the way and remove the two screws recessed where the cluster is
17) Congrats (haha) you can now pop out the black trim that holds everything in there, if you want you can just swing it carefully into your passenger footwell (what I do) or unclip/screw the heating/ac cable and pull it out
18) Now, you should see your naked dash, 4 gold screws hold in the cluster (2 on each side), remove these
19) CAREFULLY pull the cluster foward, there's three harnesses that attach to it, no way to describe what I did, but manuever it around to unclip those and pull it out, be careful as the cluster plastic can break easily
20) To take apart the cluster, remove the light bulb that connects to the top of it (there's two wires so just follow them) now there's two clips on the bottom and three on the top, carefully press all those in and the clear covering should slide off.
21) Removal of gauges and what not - Pull up on the flat covering that has the labels on it (it probably is already loose) this should expose everything else.
- Turn the cluster around this is what everything is:
1) Three screws hold in the Temp Gauge and Fuel Gauge
2) Four screws hold in the Speedo and the Tach
There are NO wires going to these pieces, I believe the power is transferred through the screws, so don't lose any and don't damage anything.
I may try to post pics up later since that's a pretty detailed explaination. Accord FAQ worthy haha
05-17-2007, 11:17 PM
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Re: (TheMuffinMan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheMuffinMan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's a bitch to get to the cluster.
I'll make a list of what needs to be removed:
1) Inside arm rest, open the small panel at the bottom and remove those two screws
2) Pull up on cup holder (should pop out) there is one screw at an ANGLE at the front of the opening, ignore the two ones in the middle, remove that one angled screw
3) Pull up the ebrake if it's not already up and the entire armrest/cupholder piece should slide back and up (move it around the ebrake)
4) Two screws are in front of you now near the ebrake and behind the shifter on the black piece, remove those
5) Pull out the ash tray (straight out) and remove the screw above the OBD II connector
6) Pull out the Coin Holder, remove the screw behind that and pull off the steering column cover (about 8 clips)
7) The black center console should be loose now, kinda lift it up and out - there's two clips holding it near the radio
8) Unclip the lighter , clock, hazards, and fog connectors at the top and put the piece aside
9) Remove the two screws at the base of the radio (near the OBDII connector) and pull the radio out - unplug the main harness and the antenna
10) It should look pretty empty at this point, remove the two screws on the left side of the tan part of the center console (one up by AC controls, one below near bottom of steering column)
11) Kinda weird part, Open the glove box, there's two screws on the center console in similar areas, I was able to fanangle my way in there to remove them, take out both of these.
12) Remove the two upper screws on the center console (silver and hex head)
13) The center console should now be free to be pulled out (you MAY need to remove your glove box - two screws on bottom + clipped on arm on the right side)
14) Put your hand on the back of the dash and pop out the Dimmer, Cruise/Sunroof, and defrost switches - behind the Cruise/Sunroof is a screw - remove that, behind the defrost is a screw - remove that as well
15) Look up under the Heating / AC controls where the clock/hazards used to be, you should see two small screws - remove those
16) Lower the steering wheel all the way and remove the two screws recessed where the cluster is
17) Congrats (haha) you can now pop out the black trim that holds everything in there, if you want you can just swing it carefully into your passenger footwell (what I do) or unclip/screw the heating/ac cable and pull it out
18) Now, you should see your naked dash, 4 gold screws hold in the cluster (2 on each side), remove these
19) CAREFULLY pull the cluster foward, there's three harnesses that attach to it, no way to describe what I did, but manuever it around to unclip those and pull it out, be careful as the cluster plastic can break easily
20) To take apart the cluster, remove the light bulb that connects to the top of it (there's two wires so just follow them) now there's two clips on the bottom and three on the top, carefully press all those in and the clear covering should slide off.
21) Removal of gauges and what not - Pull up on the flat covering that has the labels on it (it probably is already loose) this should expose everything else.
- Turn the cluster around this is what everything is:
1) Three screws hold in the Temp Gauge and Fuel Gauge
2) Four screws hold in the Speedo and the Tach
There are NO wires going to these pieces, I believe the power is transferred through the screws, so don't lose any and don't damage anything.
I may try to post pics up later since that's a pretty detailed explaination. Accord FAQ worthy haha</TD></TR></TABLE>
...why? all i do is slide my dash bezel off, disconnect my cruise control, rear defrost, and ac control plugs..and there my cluster is waiting to be unscrewed...are only the 96 97 models like that?
I'll make a list of what needs to be removed:
1) Inside arm rest, open the small panel at the bottom and remove those two screws
2) Pull up on cup holder (should pop out) there is one screw at an ANGLE at the front of the opening, ignore the two ones in the middle, remove that one angled screw
3) Pull up the ebrake if it's not already up and the entire armrest/cupholder piece should slide back and up (move it around the ebrake)
4) Two screws are in front of you now near the ebrake and behind the shifter on the black piece, remove those
5) Pull out the ash tray (straight out) and remove the screw above the OBD II connector
6) Pull out the Coin Holder, remove the screw behind that and pull off the steering column cover (about 8 clips)
7) The black center console should be loose now, kinda lift it up and out - there's two clips holding it near the radio
8) Unclip the lighter , clock, hazards, and fog connectors at the top and put the piece aside
9) Remove the two screws at the base of the radio (near the OBDII connector) and pull the radio out - unplug the main harness and the antenna
10) It should look pretty empty at this point, remove the two screws on the left side of the tan part of the center console (one up by AC controls, one below near bottom of steering column)
11) Kinda weird part, Open the glove box, there's two screws on the center console in similar areas, I was able to fanangle my way in there to remove them, take out both of these.
12) Remove the two upper screws on the center console (silver and hex head)
13) The center console should now be free to be pulled out (you MAY need to remove your glove box - two screws on bottom + clipped on arm on the right side)
14) Put your hand on the back of the dash and pop out the Dimmer, Cruise/Sunroof, and defrost switches - behind the Cruise/Sunroof is a screw - remove that, behind the defrost is a screw - remove that as well
15) Look up under the Heating / AC controls where the clock/hazards used to be, you should see two small screws - remove those
16) Lower the steering wheel all the way and remove the two screws recessed where the cluster is
17) Congrats (haha) you can now pop out the black trim that holds everything in there, if you want you can just swing it carefully into your passenger footwell (what I do) or unclip/screw the heating/ac cable and pull it out
18) Now, you should see your naked dash, 4 gold screws hold in the cluster (2 on each side), remove these
19) CAREFULLY pull the cluster foward, there's three harnesses that attach to it, no way to describe what I did, but manuever it around to unclip those and pull it out, be careful as the cluster plastic can break easily
20) To take apart the cluster, remove the light bulb that connects to the top of it (there's two wires so just follow them) now there's two clips on the bottom and three on the top, carefully press all those in and the clear covering should slide off.
21) Removal of gauges and what not - Pull up on the flat covering that has the labels on it (it probably is already loose) this should expose everything else.
- Turn the cluster around this is what everything is:
1) Three screws hold in the Temp Gauge and Fuel Gauge
2) Four screws hold in the Speedo and the Tach
There are NO wires going to these pieces, I believe the power is transferred through the screws, so don't lose any and don't damage anything.
I may try to post pics up later since that's a pretty detailed explaination. Accord FAQ worthy haha</TD></TR></TABLE>
...why? all i do is slide my dash bezel off, disconnect my cruise control, rear defrost, and ac control plugs..and there my cluster is waiting to be unscrewed...are only the 96 97 models like that?
05-18-2007, 08:07 AM
#5
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (oem_certified_accord)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oem_certified_accord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...why? all i do is slide my dash bezel off, disconnect my cruise control, rear defrost, and ac control plugs..and there my cluster is waiting to be unscrewed...are only the 96 97 models like that?</TD></TR></TABLE> Sounds like your bezel is missing quite a few clips and screws if you can just slide it off..... 
MuffinMan's writeup sounds about right. Only thing missing is the screws on the sides of the center console armrest btwn steps 2 and 3.
MuffinMan's writeup sounds about right. Only thing missing is the screws on the sides of the center console armrest btwn steps 2 and 3.
05-18-2007, 11:38 AM
#7
Ah Super - you shouldn't need to remove those 
those just hold the armrest together. Same with the two right underneath the cupholder, they hold that metal bracket together down there
and yes if you're able to just do those screws you're missing a few or tabs are broken off, it's like that for all 94-97 Accords
those just hold the armrest together. Same with the two right underneath the cupholder, they hold that metal bracket together down thereand yes if you're able to just do those screws you're missing a few or tabs are broken off, it's like that for all 94-97 Accords
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05-20-2007, 06:40 PM
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my 94 accord ex with abs, speedometer doesnt work, so i thought bout changing the cluster gauge. Is there any way i can diagnose to find out if it is the cluster gauge or other sensors like the speed sensors? everything else works but speedometer!
05-21-2007, 09:46 AM
#10
If the speedo doesn't work and the cruise control does , it's not the VSS, it's the cluster part.
If the light doesn't come on for the abs it could just be a blown bulb. Or could be the fuses for the ABS (I believe it has two separate ones)
If the light doesn't come on for the abs it could just be a blown bulb. Or could be the fuses for the ABS (I believe it has two separate ones)
05-22-2007, 02:17 PM
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i have to see if cruise control works cuz i havent tried to do that. Also, my abs light is on.where are the fuses for abs and speedometer, i dont a manual yet.
03-14-2009, 08:34 AM
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Re: 94 - 96 honda accord 4 cyl. cluster gauge info
Thank you for the totally awesome instructions for removing the cluster on my '94 Honda Accord. The junkyard cluster worked great on my test drive, so I put everything back together. Now I tried to start it, and it only cranks. Is there a code the computer reads to make certain the cluster has not been tampered with? Do I need to replace the circuit board on the old cluster, and use it instead? I am baffled.
09-12-2010, 11:01 AM
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Re: 94 - 96 honda accord 4 cyl. cluster gauge info
Im Selling an accord cluster exact same as this one in good condtion 94-97 Will work on and ex or lx. Selling for 60 shipping included Witch is cheapest as they go. Contact me for more info
10-23-2011, 07:50 PM
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Re: 94 - 96 honda accord 4 cyl. cluster gauge info
Thank you for the awesome write up TheMuffinMan.
I have replaced the VSS and the speedometer did not start working, I just got finished replacing the cluster with one from a junk yard to find it as well does not work. Kind of frustrated because I buttoned the entire dash back up after checking lights and everything else worked upon start up. Next week I will pull it and take it back to the junk yard.
Any clue what it could be since the old speedometer jumped around and this one is static not moving?
I already checked the cruise control and dimmer, both seem to function perfectly.
I have replaced the VSS and the speedometer did not start working, I just got finished replacing the cluster with one from a junk yard to find it as well does not work. Kind of frustrated because I buttoned the entire dash back up after checking lights and everything else worked upon start up. Next week I will pull it and take it back to the junk yard.
Any clue what it could be since the old speedometer jumped around and this one is static not moving?
I already checked the cruise control and dimmer, both seem to function perfectly.
Last edited by fergy016; 10-23-2011 at 08:19 PM.
10-24-2011, 05:18 AM
#17
Re: 94 - 96 honda accord 4 cyl. cluster gauge info
Depressingly you could have gotten two dud speedometers - especially if the other one had just been exposed to the elements. You may want to go to your original one and heat the solder back up to fix the connections. There is another thread that details which solder points to hit.
10-24-2011, 07:10 AM
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Re: 94 - 96 honda accord 4 cyl. cluster gauge info
do you mind linking it for me, I am not finding it in the FAQ or through search for gauge, speedometer, or the like.
11-06-2011, 08:05 PM
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Re: 94 - 96 honda accord 4 cyl. cluster gauge info
I just wanted to share on this thread since I referenced it heavily working on my cluster earlier this year (twice so far).
First I want to say I did not find it necessary at all to remove the center console (the grey part, not the trim piece around my radio - I did have to take that bit off) and hence neither the glovebox nor the bolster under the steering wheel. 4 of the screws on the cluster bezel were accessible without removing anything but the cruise control and defroster buttons (including the two above the cluster) and the last 2 were accessible after removing the trim piece in the center console (which is to say the black piece surrounding the radio and shifter lever). I did find it easier to get to them after pulling the radio but I'm sure if I had a decent right angle screwdriver that wouldn't have been needed either.
The first time I took it apart I did pull all of those parts, however the second time knowing where the screws were I saved tons of time by not bothering.
Secondly, and maybe I should find one of the soldering threads to mention this, but I actually had much better luck following instructions commonly available (about video cards) to bake the circuit board. First time I hand-soldered every single connection on the board, and it worked for 5 or 6 days, and then was actually worse than before. 2nd time I threw it in the oven for 10 mins at 385 (find instructions for doing this. if you google "bake video card" you should find plenty!) that was on the 16th of october, and the speedo has worked flawlessly since (now the 6th of november). sooo happy.
ANYWAY, thanks for posting all the great tips beforehand, just wanted to share my experience and hope it will help somebody!
Edit: if it makes any difference, this was on a 96 Accord LX
First I want to say I did not find it necessary at all to remove the center console (the grey part, not the trim piece around my radio - I did have to take that bit off) and hence neither the glovebox nor the bolster under the steering wheel. 4 of the screws on the cluster bezel were accessible without removing anything but the cruise control and defroster buttons (including the two above the cluster) and the last 2 were accessible after removing the trim piece in the center console (which is to say the black piece surrounding the radio and shifter lever). I did find it easier to get to them after pulling the radio but I'm sure if I had a decent right angle screwdriver that wouldn't have been needed either.
The first time I took it apart I did pull all of those parts, however the second time knowing where the screws were I saved tons of time by not bothering.
Secondly, and maybe I should find one of the soldering threads to mention this, but I actually had much better luck following instructions commonly available (about video cards) to bake the circuit board. First time I hand-soldered every single connection on the board, and it worked for 5 or 6 days, and then was actually worse than before. 2nd time I threw it in the oven for 10 mins at 385 (find instructions for doing this. if you google "bake video card" you should find plenty!) that was on the 16th of october, and the speedo has worked flawlessly since (now the 6th of november). sooo happy.
ANYWAY, thanks for posting all the great tips beforehand, just wanted to share my experience and hope it will help somebody!
Edit: if it makes any difference, this was on a 96 Accord LX
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