c.dub

Before I start, I want to say I am used to the handling of a CRX. I recently got a much better job and I am thinking of buying a newer car. I have always liked the style of the RSX, and a K20 just gets me giddy However, I have heard that the DC5 suspension setup is the least favored feature from owners and H/A fans.

Now, I have searched and read the FAQ in regards to suspension mods, since this would be the first thing I would want to change.

From what I have read, this is what I have come to understand:

1. MacPherson up front, Dual Wishbone in the back.
2. Lowering too much greatly decreases ride and handling quality.
3. When changing the suspension, having a quality true coilover system is best (kind of goes without saying).
4. Getting a proper alignment done after changing the suspension is mandatory.

Now, some things I would like to understand better:

1. Why is the DC5 suspension design supposedly unfavorable?
2. How does the DC5 handle compared to a DC2 with the same or similar setup?
3. In '05 the suspension got an upgrade, can you install an aftermarket setup for an '05-'06 in an '02-'04 and achieve an even better setup?
4. Overall how does a DC5 handle when compared to Honda's traditional Dual Wishbone setups?


If I did purchase an RSX it would be a TypeS, and between '02-'04. It would be my spirited daily driver, and weekend warrior. Of course I would want it to be fast, and have a nice appearance, but above all else I always want my cars to have exceptional handling.

Thanks to anyone who posts thorough and intelligent replies.

c.dub

15 views and nothing so far...


Bump!

c.dub

Daily bump...

Chris.

iTrader: (4)

from what i have been told, the mcphearson's suspension setup was a way that honda could cut cost, since its a 'cheaper' design. also, the suspension does not have much shock travel. the RSX also has alot more understeer than the older model hondas, but you can slightly fix this with a larger rear swaybar. if you ever look at the realtime racing rsx's they have a completely redesigned suspension for better handling. see http://www.realtimerl.com/content/acura-rsx for their setup.

Todd00

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .:c..dub:. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Daily bump...</TD></TR></TABLE>

No bumping allowed.

Give people time, not a lot of folks know a lot about the suspension on the DC5.

I know I have personally posted, more times that I wish to count, the things wrong with the DC5 setup and ways to correct them.

I wanted to see where this thread went before I chimed in. I'm not bragging, but I probably have the most experience with the DC5 setup on this forum right now. I've see the HART solution to the problems and I've talked extensively with the folks at Koni. I've also owned 3 cars based on this platform and worked with every one of them.

I was hoping to fill in the holes where others have posted rather than do the entire writeup myself.

Chris.

iTrader: (4)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wanted to see where this thread went before I chimed in. I'm not bragging, but I probably have the most experience with the DC5 setup on this forum right now. I've see the HART solution to the problems and I've talked extensively with the folks at Koni. I've also owned 3 cars based on this platform and worked with every one of them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what would you suggest as far as spring rating? i just bought a set of buddy club n+ dampers and im debating whether or not to upgrade the rear spring rates.

Todd00

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4F CHR!S &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what would you suggest as far as spring rating? i just bought a set of buddy club n+ dampers and im debating whether or not to upgrade the rear spring rates. </TD></TR></TABLE>

What are you doing with the car? But a good general baseline is that your rear rates should be at least double those of the front if you want a car that will somewhat rotate.

Chris.

iTrader: (4)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What are you doing with the car? But a good general baseline is that your rear rates should be at least double those of the front if you want a car that will somewhat rotate.</TD></TR></TABLE>

daily driver 80% of the time and hpde events/spirited runs 20% of the time. i was thinking about those t1r coilovers with the 10k front 12k rear rates with the progress 25mm rear swaybar and not running any front swaybar as well... (i didnt run a front swaybar with my si)

c.dub

I appreciate the replies guys. Sorry about bumping, but we all know how fast threads drop on HT We're just that popular.

Anyways, I'll just keep checking back for more info when I can.

Again any info posted is appreciated. Maybe if this thread goes well and a lot of info gets added, maybe it could be stickied? We will have to wait and see.

Cheers all.

c.dub

This my last attempt at getting some info on the subject. If I don't get any replies, I will just assume that the DC5 handles like crap.

Todd00

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .:c..dub:. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This my last attempt at getting some info on the subject. If I don't get any replies, I will just assume that the DC5 handles like crap.</TD></TR></TABLE>

For the most part, that's correct.

Too low = poor roll center, no suspension travel, ill tie-rod angles and shock binding in the rear.

Motion ratio = ~ 1:1 front, .5:1 rear. Hence, you need double the rate out back to keep a neutral car. About 4x in the rear if you want very good rotation.

Also, DC5 doesn't have much caster. You can get a lot of camber in the front, which somewhat makes up for it.

Positives of the DC5 are a solid chassis and the ability to fit a large wheel/tire package on it. Plus, the K-series motor.

You can tune the suspension somewhat and fix some of the problems, but overall it will never be as good as the old DC2 setup.

SumKrazeeDoode

I dont know alot about suspension. Why is the mcpherson worse than the double wishbone?

DecepticonDc5

a lot less adjustable.... and once you start shortening the distance between the lower control arm and the top of the strut more that like an inch and a half it gets a sweet terminal body roll effect....


there is more im sure.

josh's ep3

Thanks for answering his question, just about 2.5 years too late

sicky

supafil25

im pretty sure ive seen ppl cut the shock tower and make them higher to slam their cars. cant the same principle be applied for a slammed car to handle good aswell?

josh's ep3

No, there's a lot more to it than shock travel. Please now, lets not fill this thread with incorrect information like others (not directed at anyone). There are plenty of threads open that can answer any question on DC5/EP3 suspension.

DecepticonDc5

lol, I rock.

dc5_kevin31

ok i have racelands and when i got my alignment i was told my tie rod ends are too short to completely do the alignment the right way. i was also told the best way to fix this is to get ep3 tie rod ends... wherecan i find them??? every website just seems to have wrong ones thanks!

Todd00

nice bump

Any Honda dealership or online OEM parts place can order EP3 tierod ends...but I'm not sure that'll correct your problem.

Try raising the car up a bit and/or running less camber. However, sounds like a flaw in the front strut design or you are running them beyond their stated lowering specs.

Edit: just did a search...

http://www.racelandus.com/coilovers/...coilovers.html

$369 for coilovers? You *really* expect to get something worthwhile for that price? Holy facepalm Batman.

doood

iTrader: (1)

Racelands are all the rage now

m_shake

BWAHAHAHA!!!!!

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Why not buy a TSX or 06-11 Si instead?

The 06-11 Si is better in every single way except:
-looks (although 09-11 sedans look pretty choice...so the gap may have been closed there)
-trunk space. Hatchbacks always win that.

RSX's can be lowered around 1-1.5" or so if you're leaving everything but the shock/spring stock. Any more than that and there's issues. Roll center and suspension travel up front are the limiting factors.

Edit: WTF old thread.