Finally decided to go turbo on my 2000 GSR sedan, after realizing how much I was planing on spending on N/A parts for small amounts of power. I have been reading up on it for the past three days, but I still have a some questions. I have decided against buying a kit, and have decided to piece together the parts myself, as it seems to be cheaper and I can buy sale/used parts as they become available. I would like to make around 250whp for daily driving, and would like to have more power eventually by getting a boost controller with two boost settings. Keeping the AC is a must.

1) First, I understand that I will have to convert from OBD2 to OBD1, which involves a OBD1 ECU and harness. I went through emissions a few days ago, and they just plug in to the car because it is OBD2. If i convert to OBD1 and go back for my emissions test in two years, it is my understanding that they will have to put it on the rollers and measure the exhaust to get my emissions reading, even though my car is supposed to be OBD2. Will I still be allowed to pass if my car passes even though I'm using OBD1 instead of OBD2? (I live in Washington state if that helps at all)

If the answer to that question is no, then you can stop reading.


2) I have been looking at parts, and my proposed set up is as follows:

Manifold-Rev Hard cast manifold, $164 shipped from http://racespecialists.com/Mer...=RHTM

Downpipe-Rev Hard 2.5inch DP with AC, $150 from http://racespecialists.com/Mer...=DPIP
(scroll to the bottom)

IC piping-RS intercooler piping kit, $359 from http://racespecialists.com/Mer...aicpk

IC-Not sure exactly, obviously something that works with the above piping. I have seen front mount intercoolers between $180-225, so hopefully something in that range. Suggestions please.

Turbo-Not sure here either. From what I have read, a T3/T4 with 57 trim and .63 AR sounds good. I would like to have it hold boost all the way to redline, and maybe make upwards of 300whp someday. My confusion here is with the wastegate. An internal waste gate seems like it would be easier, avoiding the dump pipe and all, but again I'm not sure. I could use a little clarity/insight on the wastegate part, and on what turbo to buy.

Injectors-RC Engineering 440cc Saturated Injectors, $83 from http://racespecialists.com/Mer...de=FI

Fuel Pump- Again not sure, have seen them for $100, just not sure what kind or brand. Again suggestions please.

Fan- I understand that I will need a slim fan, $50 from anywhere.

Oil lines for turbo-Again not sure, have seen them for $80.

Tuning-Probably chrome or neptune, from a local shop in the Portland or Seattle area, possible Ground Zero in Portland.

I know I will need a BOV (will try and pick up a used one, hopefully a HKS SS BOV),
a boost gauge for sure and probably an oil pressure gauge.

3) I currently have just over 90K miles, and will probably have 5-10k more before install, and I understand that I will have to have a compression test and leakdown test done beforehand. Is there anything else to worry about with my mileage?

4) At my current 90K, the clutch feels great. How will it hold up to 250whp?

5)I have the stock GSR tranny, will i have major traction problems without an LSD?

Sorry for the long post, but I figured I probably should ask all my questions at once, instead of making 10 different posts. Any suggestion welcome.

Thanks


Modified by carrnut21 at 8:35 PM 2/26/2007


Modified by carrnut21 at 8:36 PM 2/26/2007

 

dunno about omission testing and all that **** i live in florida

but ill try to help you out a bit

with your goals you should be able to get your 250whp with relative ease no more then 8 psi on that turbo, you could get away with a .48 trim and itll spool quicker, i believe spoolin performance has an intercooler for $190 and its bar and plate (the good ****). As for the fuel pump, you can find a Walboro 255lph just about anywhere, streetrays.com has em for $99. Mileage is just about perfect for boosting, the motor has just about broken it, when you hit the 100k mile mark be sure to get a full tune up at the dealearship (water pump, timing belt, spark plugs, etc) im sure that will prevent some headaches. Clutch should be fine for a little while as long you dont tear around town clutch dropping it everywhere, eventually it will begin to slip though, just plan on replacing it. Yes youre going to have traction issues, but as soon as you learn to "roll" on the throttle and slip the clutch you should be able to keep it to a minimum. hope this helps

 

Wow thanks alot, that answers almost all my questions. Would the .48 trim still hold boost to redline? Would it be a .48 trim and .63 AR? Thanks again.


Still wondering about the emissions and waste gate questions.


Modified by carrnut21 at 9:51 PM 2/26/2007

 

.48 trim or .50 trim should be able to hold boost since youre not close to maxing out the turbo's efficiency. yah it would be .48 trim compressor housing .63 AR. what do you plan on revving to? ah i missed the wastegate part, since you may have plans to move up to 300whp it would be better to just go ahead and get a tial or turbosmart external wastegate. to make it easier for you to make power and put less stress on your motor, you can go with 3" AC compatible downpipe. instead of the revhard manifold i recommend the package you can get from spoolin performance. they have a manifold, downpipe, dumptube deal for $600 i think

 

I will probably end up going with the revhard manifold and the revhard 3 inch AC compatible downpipe, because the other is a little expensive. The bills add up fast with a turbo, and I havent even added in the price of the turbo itself. I will keep the stock rev limit of 8000 rpms. I will go with a 38mm wastegate, but I still need a turbo.


Modified by carrnut21 at 10:42 PM 2/26/2007

 

i'm starting to research the same thing...

looking at a used deal for most of a greddy setup (mani, turbo, DP) myself.

i'm OBD2 as well and there are em testing here in IN. i understand for testing you can swap back in stock inj, stock ecu, run the wastegate wide open (no boost build) and you should be able to get past the data port scan for testing...

 

My suggestion for places that have emmiisions test are to just keep any stock parts that you take off, that way just in case you get busted for something or when test time rolls around you can throw the neccessary crap back on to pass. Can't say I really know much on this area though cause we don't test down here in SC.

 

wow, that would be a bitch to do every two years, but it wouldnt be to bad if you only replaced those parts. What happens if you dont pass? I have heard that if you spend enough trying to fix it and you cant then you dont have to. is this true?

 

Bump-still wondering about the emissions question in the first post.

 

just a quick thought....the parts you're looking for are also in the Sponsors Marketplace and you can usually get better deals here than anywhere else...also that piping is hella expensive...check out SPoolin Performance, they sell for less than that and is of better quality

 

Thanks for the tip on the piping, and I will check the sponsor Martketplace for parts.

 

I believe you can go up but you can't go down when converting obd. So, if your car was obd-I, you can go to obd-II and pass emissions fine, but if you're obd-II, you can't convert down to obd-I, from what a mechanic told me. So it would probably be best to keep those stock parts just in case. Injectors, ecu and just disconnect a charge pipe so you don't build boost.

 

Or you could just use carb approved stuff. The Greddy turbo kit is approved in every state I believe, and the Skunk2 intake mani. is carb approved. You can find ways to make it approved I guess.

 

+1 on keeping the stock parts for SMOG, that's what I did. Took one afternoon to put it to stock, and the next morning to reboost it.
Some of Greddy's kits were rejected by the CARB, check with them directly about the specific kit, if you go that route. City-speed.com assured me the kit I bought was legal...