I have been reading around on here..and saw some articles saying it is better to get it tuned before doing a break in?
my question is..is that meaning a dyno tune?

and would you guys recommend it before I do my break in? right now I am having high idle problems.

thanks for your responses in advance..!!

 

build, tune, "break in", have fun.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16nonoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
and would you guys recommend it before I do my break in? right now I am having high idle problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, if youve already been idling it already for an extended amount of time, youre already pretty far off most of our recco's on what to do for initial break in.

 

well I have been trying to find an idle for hours already...I probly went through 3-5 gallons of gas I would say..hEhE...I had to goto the gas station with a gas canister and fill up..put another 4 gallons cause I completely ran out of gas...

 

I hope youre kidding.

What exactly was rebuilt? Fresh hone on the cylinder walls, new pistons/rings?

 

here is my full setup:

Darton Ductile Iron Sleeves bored 84mm
JE pistons 84mm(11.5:1 Compression)
Eagle H-Beam Rods
ACL race main/rods bearings
Head has been ported & polished stage 3(3 angle valve job)
KMS development valves, KMS titanium Retainers, & Dual valve springs
Skunk2 Pro-Series 2+ cams
Skunk2 cam gears
Skunk2 pro series intake manifold
edelbrock 65mm throttle body
Stock OEM air intake system
Stock ignition system w/ NGK iridium & type r oem plugs
310cc RC engineering injectors
AEM fuel Rail
aem fuel pressure regulator
Walbro 342 Fuel Pump
Honda OEM 98 spec Type-R Header straight piped to my exhaust
RS-R Exmag Exhaust

ROTATING ASSEMBLY HAS BEEN FULLY BALANCED

 

Must would like to see an initial steady running of 2000rpm for 20 minutes or so. Dont let it idle.

Then tow it to a dyno facility. Thats optimum.

 

would you like to see some pics??

 

i sent you an IM

 

He does not need a tuner Steve, he has a fully tuned Ebay chip!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16nonoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here are my engine specs...<U>with a p28 and spoon sports(ebay) chip</U>...i been messing aroung with this idle for days...the closest I have got was between 1100-1400..and it jumps up and down...cant get it steady..search around everywhere and tried as much troubleshooting as I possibly can..

I have checked my IACV, tps, I tried 2 IACV's...I have my wiring all hooked up correctly..(did massive research)..

any help or suggestions would be appreciated..THANKSS!!
pics are available...

Darton Ductile Iron Sleeves bored 84mm
JE pistons 84mm(11.5:1 Compression)
Eagle H-Beam Rods
ACL race main/rods bearings
Head has been ported & polished stage 3(3 angle valve job)
KMS development valves, KMS titanium Retainers, & Dual valve springs
Skunk2 Pro-Series 2+ cams
Skunk2 cam gears
Skunk2 pro series intake manifold
edelbrock 65mm throttle body(with tps)
aemair intake system
Stock ignition system w/ NGK iridium & type r wires
310cc RC engineering injectors
AEM fuel Rail
AEM fuel pressure regulator & AEM fuel filter
Walbro 342 Fuel Pump
Honda OEM 98 spec Type-R Header straight piped to my exhaust
RS-R Exmag Exhaust

</TD></TR></TABLE>
You need to tow the car to a qualified tuner, as CC has suggested-ASAP.

 

well the spoon sports makes my idle go up and down...switched it back to the jun ebay chip it doesnt go up and down...stays at a constant 1700....

I am looking for honest opinions...not jokes...

hEhE nevermind..I saw your last sentence at the bottom of your post..sorry..any good tuners in san diego that you guys would trust??? CAT is just a little far for me right now...

 

Skunk Pro 2's are not drop in and go cams. The primary and secondary lobes are huge compared to stock. As Steve and I have both suggested, get the car to a qualified tuner. You spent money on all of the nice go-fast parts, don't start skimping now.

 

hehE thanks...for the advice guys......maybe girls....my damn project has emptied my pockets ...but all should be worth it...I guess I will setup an appointment at CAT for next week then....I will tow it with my truck....I will post dyno sheet on this same THREAD!! thanks everyone

 

why do you always say hehe before your post you sound gay. Secondly I let my car idle for one heat cycle. Then I drove my car about 10 miles to the dyno and had a dyno/break in tune. With all the parts you threw in there I would definetly spend the money to get to a good tunner and tow the car if you have too. Also get rid of the ebay chip and get crome.

 

I was thinking of going with hondata s100

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16nonoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well I have been trying to find an idle for hours already...I probly went through 3-5 gallons of gas I would say..hEhE...I had to goto the gas station with a gas canister and fill up..put another 4 gallons cause I completely ran out of gas...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you serious?




https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1360641

 

yea its a pain in the ***...I was trying to get a good idle so I can at least do a break in drive...but bunch of people are telling me to get it dynoed first..I didnt know about that..

 

When you take it to your tuner he will fix all of your idle problems and break it in on the dyno.
in about 3 hours he will give you the car and then you can drive it SAFELY.
change the oil and then go have as much fun as you like. seeing that the tuner adjusted your idle, fuel curve and timing curves meaning that engine is safe to beat on

 

ok cool..thanks everyone for your help..