Engine Break In Method
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From: Birmingham, Alabama, USA
Engine Break In Method
I am building my engine, and i wanted to know what everyone thinks is the best way to break in an engine from experience?
Im just going to put the answers in a nut shell so its not so long.
Hasting's Method - Crank and let idle while checking over everything. Go drive the car revving up to 3000rpm and then engine brake, rev to 4000 and then engine brake, ETC.
Normal Method - Crank and let idle while checking over everything. Drive the car normal while not revving high. Chang oil at 50-150-300 and 500 miles...then go tune the car.
Modified by H22PwrdHatch at 9:14 AM 9/4/2005
Im just going to put the answers in a nut shell so its not so long.
Hasting's Method - Crank and let idle while checking over everything. Go drive the car revving up to 3000rpm and then engine brake, rev to 4000 and then engine brake, ETC.
Normal Method - Crank and let idle while checking over everything. Drive the car normal while not revving high. Chang oil at 50-150-300 and 500 miles...then go tune the car.
Modified by H22PwrdHatch at 9:14 AM 9/4/2005
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From: MIRAMAR, FL
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From: Birmingham, Alabama, USA
Re: Engine Break In Method (gLok)
WOW!!!....i think everyone should read that article....it is the most informative thing i have ever read....thanks alot <U>gLoK</U>
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From: los banos, ca
Re: (SuperSteve737)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuperSteve737 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That link is for motorcycles though, is it the same for cars?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yup
yup
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From: Halifax, NS, Canada
Re: (2k.civic.si)
I'm going to have to disagree with both.
The following method is one I will have to put most trust in as doing things right.
What can I say, Jeff knows his stuff.
http://www.importbuilders.com/breakinarticle.htm
The following method is one I will have to put most trust in as doing things right.
What can I say, Jeff knows his stuff.
http://www.importbuilders.com/breakinarticle.htm
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From: ...sd
Re: (sik civic)
This is how we broke my motor in...
Started it up and rev'd it to 3 grand for 5 minutes..
The next hundred miles gave it 30 % throttle to about 5k...
reached 286 and started to go 75% throttle to 6500k , making sure the vtec works properly and to see if im burning any oil.
So far no smoke and no oil burning , looks like the rings seated well.
Good luck.
if you baby the motor the first 200 miles your going to have some problems...
Started it up and rev'd it to 3 grand for 5 minutes..
The next hundred miles gave it 30 % throttle to about 5k...
reached 286 and started to go 75% throttle to 6500k , making sure the vtec works properly and to see if im burning any oil.
So far no smoke and no oil burning , looks like the rings seated well.
Good luck.
if you baby the motor the first 200 miles your going to have some problems...
I'm a Jackass
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From: eastwick, nj
Re: (Reza...)
start it up let it idle and check for leaks and such other than that, and change oil
you break her in soft, she'll like it soft
you break her in hard, she'll always want it hard
just a tip i learned froma few old schoolers
you break her in soft, she'll like it soft
you break her in hard, she'll always want it hard
just a tip i learned froma few old schoolers
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From: ...sd
Re: (turbofienD 04)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbofienD 04 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">start it up let it idle and check for leaks and such other than that, and change oil
you break her in soft, she'll like it soft
you break her in hard, she'll always want it hard
just a tip i learned froma few old schoolers</TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly.
you break her in soft, she'll like it soft
you break her in hard, she'll always want it hard
just a tip i learned froma few old schoolers</TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly.
Re: (Reza...)
start it on let it idle till the temp go's to normal. drive it take it too high RPM a few times nothing crazy, to get the piston rings to seal better to the walls . then do a oil change and then your good to go 
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From: Halifax, NS, Canada
Re: (turbofienD 04)
This is a quote from Importbuilders.com
And I'm wondering if anyone can find fault with it.
"Never drive a brand new motor around UN-TUNED. Ever. When you spend several thousand dollars on that brand new motor, you want it to last right? To make it last one thing that is key is that you get the proper air/fuel ratio right away when you start up the motor so that it can drive. If you fully built a motor and didn’t have a wideband on it when you started it up you risk the following problems:
a. Too rich will put too much fuel down past the rings, and fuel is a cleaner…it will clean the bores and that’s not good, because you want the cylinders to have oil in them. Without oil, the pistons will scuff the cylinder walls and you’re going to be burning oil sooner than later. It could happen in the first MILE you drive the car. You want to drive it around in a parameter of say 13:1 to 15:1, but ideally 14.7:1 if you can. 13:1 won’t hurt it, you’ll just get slightly worse gas mileage.
b. The second condition is the worst, and that’s running too lean when you first start it up and drive it. Lean is hands down the worst, because even at narrow, light throttle you’re going to get excessive heat and cause piston expansion. If the piston expands even one thousands of an inch too much, your block is done, and your cylinder walls are scuffed, pistons are scuffed, and you’re burning lots of oil again. This can happen in one SINGLE dyno pass. Or just driving 2 miles to the dyno.
You might have heard of shops, that have charged about $16,000 for a fully built motor, and then they go out and drive the car around for 750 miles to break it in on a fully un-tuned motor. That is beyond stupid people. You see a shop doing that, you silently walk the other way, and don’t go back until they change their ways. You buy a brand new car and you drive it off the lot. That motor has about 5 miles on it or so. Most people get on it right away, such as me. Does that motor ever have any problems? Not that I have ever seen, or heard! You want to know why? Because its already fully tuned when you pick it up."
"What about the guy who told me I need to put 1000 miles on my motor before I tune it and that I need to "break it in"? I will be blunt. That person is not educated on motors. With 1 exception...if that person told you to DYNO your motor at narrow throttle, that your going to be driving it for a few hundred miles, that's fine... However...I see a lot of people that customers "think" are smart and they are recommending 1000 mile break ins on built motors! That is the stupidest thing you could possibly do! When you hear terms like this, BEWARE and RUN THE OTHER WAY, or CLOSE YOUR EYES: "Just put in a base map, and break it in for xxxx miles, then go tune it, give the rings time to seat.." RUN!! CLOSE YOUR EYES! That is insane, stupid and ignorant all at the same time. Base Map? What the heck is that? When Honda tells you to put xxxx miles on your motor, or whatever, its completely tuned already with great air fuel ratio's. Do don't think for one second your base map is worth a damn, because it is a shot in the dark. It sucks UNLESS you went to a dyno and fully tuned your car at the RPM's and throttle position your driving it at with a wideband hooked up to the car. That chip your using is somebody's educated guess at what will run the car. Its not intended to drive on for any extended periods of time on! (I HOPE THEY TOLD YOU THIS, if they didn't... RUN!!) If you have no other option, a basemap can be used for getting your car a FEW miles straight to the dyno, but I am very against that even and a tow truck would be better.. This is a theme you all need to understand: "Don't start your motor unless you can adjust the air/fuel ratio to a reasonable number right away". Anything else is unwise, and foolish. Wideband cost like $350 shipped, just buy one for you and all your buddies to share. Best money you ever spent.
So here is a lesson on what to do to make your motor run as good as you can with as little problems as possible.
#1 I got a brand new block/engine and I want to break it in properly. What should I do first? A most common question. The answer is surprisingly simplistic. First you have to inspect the hone finish of the block your breaking in. What grit was it honed to? 500? 400? If the hatchings on it are pronounced and clear, you most likely have a bad machined block that will require some break-in to smooth it out. If I got a block that had a very smooth hone finish, such as a plateau finished block (IB), this is what you do. When you get the motor in the car, and are ready to start it up make sure you have an oil pressure gauge installed. Install a wide band O2 sensor to read 02 ratio BEFORE YOU START IT. Then unplug the distributor and crank it over until you get oil pressure, should take a short time, under a minute sometimes. Then plug the distributor back in, and start it up with whatever program you have. Notice the air fuel ratio. The car is warming up, so its going to read a little rich at first. When the car fully warms up you want the air/fuel ratio to be as close to 14.7:1 as possible. Immediately adjust your tuning to make it 14.7 at idle right away. Use a injector multiplier change if you have management, if you don't, use a fuel pressure regulator for starts... Then when you get the car at 14.7 at idle, and make it idle at around 800-900 RPM, make sure the timing is at about 13-16 degrees. Now, with the air/fuel ratio meter working, take the car for a short drive on the dyno, or the street, driving as you would normally. DO NOT put the throttle past say 50%. Make sure the air/fuel ratio is around 14.7:1, but not over 15:1 all throughout the gears up to say, 4500 RPM. Now your car is drive able. You can drive it within those parameters ONLY. Which in English means: less than 50% throttle, and under 4500 RPMS ONLY. Until you tune for whatever area you want to drive in. You could literally drive the car 100k miles as long as you don't go outside those parameters and it should be fine. Air fuel ratio and timing is good...its good."
And I'm wondering if anyone can find fault with it.
"Never drive a brand new motor around UN-TUNED. Ever. When you spend several thousand dollars on that brand new motor, you want it to last right? To make it last one thing that is key is that you get the proper air/fuel ratio right away when you start up the motor so that it can drive. If you fully built a motor and didn’t have a wideband on it when you started it up you risk the following problems:
a. Too rich will put too much fuel down past the rings, and fuel is a cleaner…it will clean the bores and that’s not good, because you want the cylinders to have oil in them. Without oil, the pistons will scuff the cylinder walls and you’re going to be burning oil sooner than later. It could happen in the first MILE you drive the car. You want to drive it around in a parameter of say 13:1 to 15:1, but ideally 14.7:1 if you can. 13:1 won’t hurt it, you’ll just get slightly worse gas mileage.
b. The second condition is the worst, and that’s running too lean when you first start it up and drive it. Lean is hands down the worst, because even at narrow, light throttle you’re going to get excessive heat and cause piston expansion. If the piston expands even one thousands of an inch too much, your block is done, and your cylinder walls are scuffed, pistons are scuffed, and you’re burning lots of oil again. This can happen in one SINGLE dyno pass. Or just driving 2 miles to the dyno.
You might have heard of shops, that have charged about $16,000 for a fully built motor, and then they go out and drive the car around for 750 miles to break it in on a fully un-tuned motor. That is beyond stupid people. You see a shop doing that, you silently walk the other way, and don’t go back until they change their ways. You buy a brand new car and you drive it off the lot. That motor has about 5 miles on it or so. Most people get on it right away, such as me. Does that motor ever have any problems? Not that I have ever seen, or heard! You want to know why? Because its already fully tuned when you pick it up."
"What about the guy who told me I need to put 1000 miles on my motor before I tune it and that I need to "break it in"? I will be blunt. That person is not educated on motors. With 1 exception...if that person told you to DYNO your motor at narrow throttle, that your going to be driving it for a few hundred miles, that's fine... However...I see a lot of people that customers "think" are smart and they are recommending 1000 mile break ins on built motors! That is the stupidest thing you could possibly do! When you hear terms like this, BEWARE and RUN THE OTHER WAY, or CLOSE YOUR EYES: "Just put in a base map, and break it in for xxxx miles, then go tune it, give the rings time to seat.." RUN!! CLOSE YOUR EYES! That is insane, stupid and ignorant all at the same time. Base Map? What the heck is that? When Honda tells you to put xxxx miles on your motor, or whatever, its completely tuned already with great air fuel ratio's. Do don't think for one second your base map is worth a damn, because it is a shot in the dark. It sucks UNLESS you went to a dyno and fully tuned your car at the RPM's and throttle position your driving it at with a wideband hooked up to the car. That chip your using is somebody's educated guess at what will run the car. Its not intended to drive on for any extended periods of time on! (I HOPE THEY TOLD YOU THIS, if they didn't... RUN!!) If you have no other option, a basemap can be used for getting your car a FEW miles straight to the dyno, but I am very against that even and a tow truck would be better.. This is a theme you all need to understand: "Don't start your motor unless you can adjust the air/fuel ratio to a reasonable number right away". Anything else is unwise, and foolish. Wideband cost like $350 shipped, just buy one for you and all your buddies to share. Best money you ever spent.
So here is a lesson on what to do to make your motor run as good as you can with as little problems as possible.
#1 I got a brand new block/engine and I want to break it in properly. What should I do first? A most common question. The answer is surprisingly simplistic. First you have to inspect the hone finish of the block your breaking in. What grit was it honed to? 500? 400? If the hatchings on it are pronounced and clear, you most likely have a bad machined block that will require some break-in to smooth it out. If I got a block that had a very smooth hone finish, such as a plateau finished block (IB), this is what you do. When you get the motor in the car, and are ready to start it up make sure you have an oil pressure gauge installed. Install a wide band O2 sensor to read 02 ratio BEFORE YOU START IT. Then unplug the distributor and crank it over until you get oil pressure, should take a short time, under a minute sometimes. Then plug the distributor back in, and start it up with whatever program you have. Notice the air fuel ratio. The car is warming up, so its going to read a little rich at first. When the car fully warms up you want the air/fuel ratio to be as close to 14.7:1 as possible. Immediately adjust your tuning to make it 14.7 at idle right away. Use a injector multiplier change if you have management, if you don't, use a fuel pressure regulator for starts... Then when you get the car at 14.7 at idle, and make it idle at around 800-900 RPM, make sure the timing is at about 13-16 degrees. Now, with the air/fuel ratio meter working, take the car for a short drive on the dyno, or the street, driving as you would normally. DO NOT put the throttle past say 50%. Make sure the air/fuel ratio is around 14.7:1, but not over 15:1 all throughout the gears up to say, 4500 RPM. Now your car is drive able. You can drive it within those parameters ONLY. Which in English means: less than 50% throttle, and under 4500 RPMS ONLY. Until you tune for whatever area you want to drive in. You could literally drive the car 100k miles as long as you don't go outside those parameters and it should be fine. Air fuel ratio and timing is good...its good."
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From: Boise, ID
Re: (sik civic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sik civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is a quote from Importbuilders.com
And I'm wondering if anyone can find fault with it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, it's too damn long and the correct way could be summed up with a few short sentances?
And I'm wondering if anyone can find fault with it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, it's too damn long and the correct way could be summed up with a few short sentances?
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Joined: Dec 2003
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Re: (EKhatch)
Use a 30W, non-detergent, non-synthetic engine oil ONLY!!!
DO NOT take the engine over 3,500 RPM during the first 200 miles of operation. You can increase the maximum engine speed by 500 RPM for every additional 200 miles of operation.
DO NOT operate the engine in a "steady state" mode (no open-road driving).
Change the oil and filter after 1,000 miles of operation. Synthetic or non-synthetic engine oil can be used. I use, and recommend Mobil 1.
[B] ALSO
If its a complete build with new cams to break-in cams properly rev to 2000-2500 for the first 15 min to break-in cam, If any problems arise like leaks and such turn off immediately, fix problem and continue right back to 2000-2500 rpm.
DO NOT take the engine over 3,500 RPM during the first 200 miles of operation. You can increase the maximum engine speed by 500 RPM for every additional 200 miles of operation.
DO NOT operate the engine in a "steady state" mode (no open-road driving).
Change the oil and filter after 1,000 miles of operation. Synthetic or non-synthetic engine oil can be used. I use, and recommend Mobil 1.
[B] ALSO
If its a complete build with new cams to break-in cams properly rev to 2000-2500 for the first 15 min to break-in cam, If any problems arise like leaks and such turn off immediately, fix problem and continue right back to 2000-2500 rpm.
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From: Canada
can we confirm the hard break in article, ive seen lots of people link to it, but i would like to actually see someone get two cheap 4-stroke motors and break them in, one easy one hard, could be a well worth it article for hondatech
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From: Boise, ID
Re: (unusual71)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by unusual71 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can we confirm the hard break in article, ive seen lots of people link to it, but i would like to actually see someone get two cheap 4-stroke motors and break them in, one easy one hard, could be a well worth it article for hondatech</TD></TR></TABLE>
You should specify what engine exactly because you are asking to do what the articles already done for you.
You should specify what engine exactly because you are asking to do what the articles already done for you.
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: USA
The way i break in an egine is as follows:
1. After assembly, start engine and run at 1800-2000rpm for 20-30 minutes.
2. stop engine and change oil immediatly
3. Take to a tuner or if the car is not needing one (i have dealt with many Chevy small blocks and such carbs dont need tuning ) take on highway and do some ~10mph-100or so pulls, usually 10 is enough to properly seat the rings.
4. change oil.
5 drive the hell out of the car!
6. change oil every 2500 miles.
the thing that you guys are saying about idling for 20 minutes is the worst thing you can do for an engine. at that low of an engine speed, the camshafts cant create the proper wear pattern in the lifters (buckets..etc.) and without this pattern, it can wear the lobes right off the camshaft. ive seen it happen many times, where after people have just let them idle, and it doesnt create proper lubrication and wear patterns.
after you lubricate the valvetrain properly, then you need to seat the rings. if you just drive it easy for 200 or 500 miles or whatever, you arent forcing the rings out against the cylinder walls. the pulls on the highway (or dyno) make the rings blow out against the sides of the cylinders, and then just letting the engine brake the car down to lower speed pounds them and makes them seat.
i have witnessed and broken in many engines, and throughout my experience, this has been the best method for break in. i have done this and then compression leakdown tested the engines and have found them to be perfect, and continued to be for 20,000+ miles.
Just my 2 cents.
Modified by DTLandLTD at 11:03 PM 9/4/2005
1. After assembly, start engine and run at 1800-2000rpm for 20-30 minutes.
2. stop engine and change oil immediatly
3. Take to a tuner or if the car is not needing one (i have dealt with many Chevy small blocks and such carbs dont need tuning ) take on highway and do some ~10mph-100or so pulls, usually 10 is enough to properly seat the rings.
4. change oil.
5 drive the hell out of the car!
6. change oil every 2500 miles.
the thing that you guys are saying about idling for 20 minutes is the worst thing you can do for an engine. at that low of an engine speed, the camshafts cant create the proper wear pattern in the lifters (buckets..etc.) and without this pattern, it can wear the lobes right off the camshaft. ive seen it happen many times, where after people have just let them idle, and it doesnt create proper lubrication and wear patterns.
after you lubricate the valvetrain properly, then you need to seat the rings. if you just drive it easy for 200 or 500 miles or whatever, you arent forcing the rings out against the cylinder walls. the pulls on the highway (or dyno) make the rings blow out against the sides of the cylinders, and then just letting the engine brake the car down to lower speed pounds them and makes them seat.
i have witnessed and broken in many engines, and throughout my experience, this has been the best method for break in. i have done this and then compression leakdown tested the engines and have found them to be perfect, and continued to be for 20,000+ miles.
Just my 2 cents.
Modified by DTLandLTD at 11:03 PM 9/4/2005
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From: JaCkSoNvIlLe, TX, USA
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From: Above 5,500 RPM
Re: (EKhatch)
I prefer to have it tuned right away and break it in the dyno rather than running too lean (or maybe rich), IMO. Thats what I did after 20-30 mins of idling at low rpm and checking if everything is ok. The next day, a short 15 mile drive to the dyno and that was it.
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From: Dirty South, USA
Re: (unusual71)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by unusual71 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can we confirm the hard break in article, ive seen lots of people link to it, but i would like to actually see someone get two cheap 4-stroke motors and break them in, one easy one hard, could be a well worth it article for hondatech</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have only used the "hard" break in method and never had a problem. There isn't a test to do because it's not a question. Wether you believe it or not you are determining the condition of your motor for it's whole life right off the bat. Anyone can do what they want in those first few precious moments based on opinion, but the rings are going to do what they do regardless of what anyone wants to think.
I have only used the "hard" break in method and never had a problem. There isn't a test to do because it's not a question. Wether you believe it or not you are determining the condition of your motor for it's whole life right off the bat. Anyone can do what they want in those first few precious moments based on opinion, but the rings are going to do what they do regardless of what anyone wants to think.
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Re: (flat-blk-HB)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flat-blk-HB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=878397
earl knows his ****
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just finished reading earls write up. Yep Mr Sleeves himself has changed me, i was one before who would swear to you that the firs 1000miles was the way to go, babying it that is. Now i see its best to hit up a dyno first, but my question is lets say you tune the car for up to like 9k, but dont hit over 5k until 1000miles is that what he wants you to do after you tune it? Or after its tuned you dont have to give it much time for the ringlands to seat properly and just hammer it?
earl knows his ****
</TD></TR></TABLE>Just finished reading earls write up. Yep Mr Sleeves himself has changed me, i was one before who would swear to you that the firs 1000miles was the way to go, babying it that is. Now i see its best to hit up a dyno first, but my question is lets say you tune the car for up to like 9k, but dont hit over 5k until 1000miles is that what he wants you to do after you tune it? Or after its tuned you dont have to give it much time for the ringlands to seat properly and just hammer it?