alright, i have a 95 eg dx coupe. i did the rear disc swap on it the other day and everything went in fine. one caliper was fucked as fluid wouldnt go through it. when i bought the car it came with all the **** to do the conversion. i went ahead and bought both brand new calipers from the parts store. went to drive it and the pedal would go all the way to the floor and was very scary when trying to stop. i knew i needed to put the 15/16'' master cylinder in. the friend i bought the car off of provided me with one of those as well. but it wasnt the same bolt pattern to the boosted as the stock one was. it was from a da teg or something. so i go to the junkyard and look around for a solution. i found a boosted out of a dc auto teg and took that. got home and put all that **** on and one of the fitting holes on the mc for the hardline was a 12mm, and not the 10mm i needed it to be. so i said expletive... well then i went to the junkyard and found one off a da teg that would work. put it on and im not getting **** to my calipers. i go to the parts store and bought a brand new one. bench bleed it and bleed all four corners until there were no air bubbles at all coming out and it was all fresh fluid. when i went to go test drive it, after about 5 mins of driving it the brakes would lock up. they got to the point to where i couldnt even drive under the power of the motor. just the rears were locked up at this time. i opened the bleeder valve up to relieve some pressure just to get home. i though maybe i fixed it, but on the way home from work today all four locked up. i had to pop the clutch to get into my driveway thats how bad it was. yes, not good for the motor.... so i have new calipers in the rear, type r brakes on the front, dc auto teg booster, and da 15/16'' MC. what could cause this? everything worked perfect until i did the swap. oh yeah, the pedal is pretty much always hard. has about 1'' of travel. think its a crap MC i got from the parts store? give me some ideas to look at.... werd

oh yeah, not a first time poster on here even though it says i am. i was a member for years starting back in 2000, but a power headed mod decided to delete my account...

 

The reason your brakes are locking up, is that the push rod on the DA master is a different length than the one that originally came with you car, so you need to get out a Helm's manual, and adjust the push rod length, or get a booster to match your master. Because the push rod length is not correct, it is preventing fluid from returning after you release the brake pedal.

 

you know what, i was thinking about that but when i had both boosters off they looked the same length wise. so im gonna try and make it shorter to keep pressure off the piston in the MC. makes perfect sense. thats the only thing it can be... ill post up the results. thanks

 

ok that was the problem. i had to space the MC out from the booster in order for it to work because the push rod didnt have enough adjustment in it. now my problem is that i barely have any brakes at all and the pedal is hard as a rock. i think im just gonna get a booster that fits my MC. i have the MC off a DA teg so the mounting flange is diff than my eg. sitting in the car, the DA flanges left side is up higher while the stock eg one is the opposite. the right side of the flange is higher. i read that the ef four door booster will work with the 15/16, but is it the same flange pattern as the da MC? im gonna call up some parts stores and just go look for my self i guess...

 

ok i know why the pedal is so hard and why i dont have any brakes at all is because i spaced the MC off the booster and theres no seal in the booster. i went up to the zone and two diff junkyards to come up with a solution and nothing. damn ive already spent alot of money on this and it was supposed to cost me nothing. anyone have a cheap solution? i think maybe i read the 4dr with rear disc eg comes with a 15/16 mc instead of the booster thing about the ef coming with one that would work because all ef boosters are big and bulky. shouldnt my da MC work with my DC booster?? grrrr....

 

bump.... i need brakes!

 

yup... i still need brakes....

 

Hello... I didnt see any mention of the proportioning valve being changed / replaced. I have read in a few places that the proportioning valve needs to be changed???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LIKKLEbit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hello... I didnt see any mention of the proportioning valve being changed / replaced. I have read in a few places that the proportioning valve needs to be changed???</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah ive read both, where it does need to be changed and where it doesnt.... another note, you cant even tell what size valve you have other then what car it came off of... plus, if it was the proportioning valve i wouldnt get good fluid to any caliper like i am. i think it has something to do with the booster... because while we were bleeding them they pumped fine and the pedal felt like how it was supposed too. right when i started it up and went for a test drive i could already feel the pedal get stiff and no brakes. it braked fine before we first started it because i was rolling it back and forth in my garage and hitting the brakes. when i did that it felt like it shouldve, so i think it has something to do with the booster. im just already sick of this ****. ive got alot of parts to go get my money back on now, so i guess i didnt spend that much money once all is said and done, and itll be brand new ****. granted the booster thats on there is the one that came stock on this car. should i go ahead and get a new one of those or what? would too much ******* around with the rod adjustment do this?

 

All i can say is i feel your pain...

I think this is one of the places that i *think* i read it is neccessary to replace the proportioning valve for rear disks. Something to do with drums requiring more pressure than disks, hence lock up... I could'nt bother to go back and read all 4 pages, so take a look:


http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/...lt;

hope it helps some.

Just keep researching, and try keep the blood pressure down

Oh... and i know i am contradicting myself here but, i have a friend with 5 lug and he has yet to swap out MC/BB or proportioning valve, and not problems... I bet you want to rip your hair out now eh?

 

I am in the EXACT same boat. EXACT

EDIT::
I DID do the Prop valve so it's not that. I loosened the nuts on the master cylinder so that it would sit out farther and that didn't do anything. They still tightened up. I did notice that when I put the MC and BB together that the BB rod made the MC piston go in a little so I tried to adjust the pin, but aparently it didn't go back far enough. I'm still not convinced that it's the problem. Also, I bought my reconditioned MC (for a 94 RS nonABS teg) from autozone.

 

when you say you backed off the MC from the booster, don't tell me you put washers between the two. That's a no no. to back off the push rod away from the MC piston, you have to loosen the lock nut which holds the push rod against the MC then turn the push rod counter-clock wise to back the push rod out. don't worry about whether you have the correct push rod to MC clearance. play it by ear and back off the push rod until your brakes don't drag anymore. have your car on jack stands and if the wheels are very hard to turn by hand then the wheels are still dragging. also check the push rod to brake light switch clearance as well. it's at the other end where the push rod connects to the brake pedal and the whole assembly rest on the brake light switch. if there's no clearance there, the push rod would be engaging the MC and you would have brake drag as well. I just finished a type r 5 lug swap on my ek. I only changed out the MC/booster to one from a 98 teg. didn't even bother with the PV. I had to play with adjusting the push rod until I got the braking right. also I went through 3 big bottles of brake fluid. just when you thought there was no more air bubbles, some would come through. after a week of commuting, I bled all the brakes again. now my brake pedal feels just like stock but the stomping power is definitely better. good luck and don't give up. know how you feel. been there, done that.

 

Well, I didn't even put washers in, it was a temporary solution that still didn't work. I think that I have backed the rod off as far as it will go. I really think that I just need a different brake booster....

 

15/16 came on the 1991 civic EX sedan. if you are going to use an integra m/c get the booster from the same car. if your car has abs get an abs m/c if its non abs get a non abs.