With the way I have my car set up I'm currently using a stock 14mm GSR rear sway bar.
Any ideas of how to get a stock GSR sway bar down to 10mm? Just the straigh section needs to get down to 10mm.
I'll be bringing it up to a machine shop soon to see what they think or if they can do it for me.
I wonder if there is an easy way to do this. Any ideas? Thanks in advance!

 

Well, I don't think there will be an easy way to do that.

Perhaps a better idea is to let us know what problem you're trying to solve is.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dvp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Any ideas of how to get a stock GSR sway bar down to 10mm? Just the straigh section needs to get down to 10mm.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why?

 

I already expressed this in that other thread, but I'll do it again here. I don't see any way that 14mm bar can possibly be giving you too much oversteer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stinkycheezmonky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I already expressed this in that other thread, but I'll do it again here. I don't see any way that 14mm bar can possibly be giving you too much oversteer.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'll agree....there is NO way a 14 or even a 22 mm bar is giving too much oversteer....if it is....you aint got no driving skills!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stinkycheezmonky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I already expressed this in that other thread, but I'll do it again here. I don't see any way that 14mm bar can possibly be giving you too much oversteer.</TD></TR></TABLE>


What other thread??
Yeah I know, everyone that has never driven my car wont understand till they try it.
I had 2 other people in my region (experianced drivers) drive it. One drives an RX3 in EP and the other an AE86 in DSP. Both came out of the car saying they couldn't believe how well the car rotated. Real life is all that matters. Autocrossing by the way.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rotten &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, I don't think there will be an easy way to do that.

Perhaps a better idea is to let us know what problem you're trying to solve is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The car with no rear sway had slight understeer and with the stock rear bar has a bit too much oversteer. So I'm trying to come down with the rear bar. Thanks for actually trying to help instead of bash for not having my car set up like so many others.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dvp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


What other thread??
Yeah I know, everyone that has never driven my car wont understand till they try it.
I had 2 other people in my region (experianced drivers) drive it. One drives an RX3 in EP and the other an AE86 in DSP. Both came out of the car saying they couldn't believe how well the car rotated. Real life is all that matters. Autocrossing by the way.

The car with no rear sway had slight understeer and with the stock rear bar has a bit too much oversteer. So I'm trying to come down with the rear bar. Thanks for actually trying to help instead of bash for not having my car set up like so many others. </TD></TR></TABLE>

then you alignment is all messed up.....cause an INTEGRA with a STOCK BAR isn't going to rotate with a straight chasis like you say it is!

 

Why don't you tell us what the rest of your suspension consists of. Shocks and springs (with rates) would be a good start.

This is the other thread I was referring to: https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=2

Edit: I was going to add what Chad just said, post your alignment numbers as well.

 

Koni yellows
Springs:
front-450
Rear-500

Sway bars
Front-22mm LS bar
Rear- 14mm GSR bar

Camber:
Front-neg 1.7*
Rear-neg .25

Toe:
Front-1/16" out
Rear-zero

Tires:
710's

Turn in is not crisp, but these are 710's. The car oversteers mid corner only. Not just from lift throttle.

But what I really want is how I can get a smaller bar without having one custom made.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dvp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tires:
710's


</TD></TR></TABLE>

now i really don't believe you.....

 

youd have to cut the bar and reweld it after in order to put a sway bar on a lathe to mill it down in diameter.

why not just knock your rear springs down... would be a whole lot easier...

and i agree with everyone else, your rear swaybar is not your issue.

 

Well gee that hurts. But I'm just trying to entertain you with this idea.

Any ideas on how to make the rear 14mm bar into a 10mm bar?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">youd have to cut the bar and reweld it after in order to put a sway bar on a lathe to mill it down in diameter.

why not just knock your rear springs down... would be a whole lot easier...

and i agree with everyone else, your rear swaybar is not your issue.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's what I was worried about with having a shop machine it down.

No one else said that.

I had the 450lbs springs back there at first and the 500's up front. Or maybe increase the rear springs and rid myself of the rear bar all together.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dvp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I had the 450lbs springs back there at first and the 500's up front. Or maybe increase the rear springs and rid myself of the rear bar all together. </TD></TR></TABLE>

so why not go back to 500/450?

your final conclusion doesnt make any sense either.

 

Well it's one more thing to try. Thanks.

 

and do you realize how small and insignificant 10mm diameter is in torsional stress?

might as well jsut take it off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dvp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Camber:
Front-neg 1.7*
Rear-neg .25
</TD></TR></TABLE>

could add a little neg camber in the rear too.. i bet that would help some

 

Yes but it's one way to try this. Even the 14mm bar was a noticable difference from no bar at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrianZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">could add a little neg camber in the rear too.. i bet that would help some</TD></TR></TABLE>

Now that sounds like an easy solution as well.

 

thats because its the difference between (10/2)^2 and (14/2)^2. 25 vs 49 units, nearly half. and thats not even calculating the arm strengths.

its piddly. take it off first before trying to find a useless middle ground. or any number of other things already said.


Modified by Tyson at 3:06 PM 10/18/2006

 

It just isn't worth your trouble.

You can get the same effect by lowering the rear spring rates. It is easy and cheap.

Or you could put a beefier front sway bar.

What you're talking about isn't done because it makes no sense.

Also a lot of 'experienced' drivers don't know a lot about chassis setup, so have to take their advice with a grain of salt.

If your'e having a problem with oversteer with that setup, something is wrong.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and do you realize how small and insignificant 10mm diameter is in torsional stress?

might as well jsut take it off.</TD></TR></TABLE>


just what i was thinking. i guess i cant see how a 14mm bar would do that.. i can barely get my car to rotate well w/ a 19mm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrianZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">could add a little neg camber in the rear too.. i bet that would help some</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, that's kind of what I was thinking... My first thought is that the front vs rear ride height is pretty far out of balance. Assuming that there are no camber kits involved, with the rear camber at only -0.25 and the front at -1.7, it sure sounds like the front is lowered about 2 inches and the rear isn't lowered much at all. I would drop the rear until it's at -1.0 camber, which should be about 1.5" lower than stock.

I have found that lowering a DC2/DC4 by 1.75" front and 1.5" rear will result in camber of about -1.5 front and -1.0 rear.

With that drop, 24mm F / 22mm R sway bars, and 425 F / 450 R springs on Koni Yellows, it's a very neutral setup on Falken Azenis and it feels like I could use a heck of a lot more rear spring & sway bar when on V710's. That's on a road course too; it should be more prone to understeer at autocross.

 

I use camber kits for camber. Relying on lowering for camber seems odd to me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dvp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I use camber kits for camber. Relying on lowering for camber seems odd to me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Negative camber is just a nice side-effect of lowering. I was just hoping you were running stock camber so that we could estimate the ride heights based on what the camber readings were.