Daily Interlude

So I'm selling my OBD1 P13 and VAFC combo and getting a chipped OBD1 P28 that already has an H22 map on it and chip burner. Is there anything required like swapping wires in the clip at the ECU or something? I haven't heard anything about this...just want to know what to expect.

How do you check codes on a P28? Right now, I have a switch wired in and when I want to see codes, I just flip it (basically the stock jumper was replaced with this switch to make it easier for me). Will the same wires be jumped on the P28 to check codes (I'd assume this is a OBD1 thing)

Adam.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Daily Interlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So I'm selling my OBD1 P13 and VAFC combo and getting a chipped OBD1 P28 that already has an H22 map on it and chip burner. Is there anything required like swapping wires in the clip at the ECU or something? I haven't heard anything about this...just want to know what to expect.

How do you check codes on a P28? Right now, I have a switch wired in and when I want to see codes, I just flip it (basically the stock jumper was replaced with this switch to make it easier for me). Will the same wires be jumped on the P28 to check codes (I'd assume this is a OBD1 thing)</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, everything is the same.

twistedbydezign

its up to you but the p28 doesnt operate the iab except for a few chips that do, so u should either remove them, connect the iab wire to a power source so they are open all of the time, get like an msd rpm switch that will open them at an rpm you choose, hook it up to the vtec wire so they open with vtec, or hook it up to a manual switch and open and close them whenever you want

its not a big deal, but having them closed in higher rpms will hurt air flow and performance

Daily Interlude

I hear you but my IAB's are hooked directly to the IM and have not been hooked up to the ECU since I've owned it. None of the IAB control stuff is there.

PirateMcFred

P28 with the appropriate .bin file on the ROM and you should be good to go assuming your wiring harness is all OBD1.

Pirate

98vtec

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Daily Interlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hear you but my IAB's are hooked directly to the IM and have not been hooked up to the ECU since I've owned it. None of the IAB control stuff is there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so you just have the vacuum port plugged right?


if thats the case, the p28 will suit you fine as long as you have an h22 basemap burned onto it. Just be sure to get it tuned soon after because basemaps arent there for you to be racing around on.

Daily Interlude

My IAB isn't plugged as in not connected. I have it's vacume connection hooked directly to the IM so that it leaves them closed at part throttle but opens them at full throttle. I had a post on this a while back and some folks informed me that the IM only has suction to close them at part throttle but once open the throttle a good amount, the IM will let the IAB's open due to lack of vacume (I believe that's right...from memory).

As for tuning, I'm thinking of getting a wide band sensor and doing datalogging with Uberdata and get a street tune so that at least my air/fuel ratio will be ok. Then when money comes around, I can do a tune to actually get power out of it...

Adam.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Daily Interlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My IAB isn't plugged as in not connected. I have it's vacume connection hooked directly to the IM so that it leaves them closed at part throttle but opens them at full throttle. I had a post on this a while back and some folks informed me that the IM only has suction to close them at part throttle but once open the throttle a good amount, the IM will let the IAB's open due to lack of vacume (I believe that's right...from memory).

As for tuning, I'm thinking of getting a wide band sensor and doing datalogging with Uberdata and get a street tune so that at least my air/fuel ratio will be ok. Then when money comes around, I can do a tune to actually get power out of it...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Uberdata is dead, get Crome. You don't need anything else for your car.

/thread.

Daily Interlude

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkKnight1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Uberdata is dead, get Crome. You don't need anything else for your car.

/thread.</TD></TR></TABLE>Can you run Crome on an ECU that's been setup with Uberdata already? With out changing things on the board I mean...

The ECU I'm getting is already chipped with Uberdata. And just because no one is developing it anymore doesn't mean that it doesn't work. It's just fine for what I'm looking for right now. Eventually I'll move on to something better...

You know, baby steps! lol

Daily Interlude

I just downloaded Crome. Pretty nice little program. It let me open a bin from Uberdata and it looks right. Are they basically the same type of files?

Guess I just need to know if I need to change the ECU at all to run Crome...

98vtec

no you dont.

Adam.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Daily Interlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just downloaded Crome. Pretty nice little program. It let me open a bin from Uberdata and it looks right. Are they basically the same type of files?

Guess I just need to know if I need to change the ECU at all to run Crome...</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, I haven't been following it lately, but I believe getting data logging to work is different.

Daily Interlude

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no you dont.</TD></TR></TABLE>No I don't have to change anything different to run Crome instead of Uberdata even though the ECU has Uberdata on it already...

Daily Interlude

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkKnight1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No, I haven't been following it lately, but I believe getting data logging to work is different.</TD></TR></TABLE>From what I saw, you need Crome Pro to do datalogging. Is there a cost for Crome Pro?

I can probably still burn with Crome but user Uberdata for it's datalogging maybe?

v4lu3s

i would datalog with freelog or ecucontrol and tune with Crome.

jmayhew

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Daily Interlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I have it's vacume connection hooked directly to the IM so that it leaves them closed at part throttle but opens them at full throttle. I had a post on this a while back and some folks informed me that the IM only has suction to close them at part throttle but once open the throttle a good amount, the IM will let the IAB's open due to lack of vacume (I believe that's right...from memory).

</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats how mine is setup...seems to work fine for me.

92_VTEC_lude

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jmayhew &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I have it's vacume connection hooked directly to the IM so that it leaves them closed at part throttle but opens them at full throttle.</TD></TR></TABLE>
can someone show a picture of where the vaccum line hook up to please? there is a few vaccum source from the intake body so I jsut want to know which one is the right one. I just had a new chipped P28 with uberdata as well so I just want to make sure I do this mod to get the car running right at high RPM. Right now I am trying to sort out with code 17-ELD and code 20-VSS but the car still hit VTEC and running good even with the check engine light is ON. Also in Uberdata 1.7 I can see an option to set the RPM for IAB to open and close (my setting is at 5752 OPEN and 5439 CLOSE), does that mean I do not have to do the vaccum mod?
thankyou

THC07

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by twistedbydezign &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its up to you but the p28 doesnt operate the iab except for a few chips that do, so u should either remove them, connect the iab wire to a power source so they are open all of the time, get like an msd rpm switch that will open them at an rpm you choose, hook it up to the vtec wire so they open with vtec, or hook it up to a manual switch and open and close them whenever you want

its not a big deal, but having them closed in higher rpms will hurt air flow and performance</TD></TR></TABLE>

its not the chips that operate IAB. to add IAB to a p28 is a hardware mod, and software, im running a h22a4 civic with a p28, and love it. egr is never an issue.

I like your method of hooking up the iab though, clever

if someone would like a chip. i can copy them one, its tunned on a dyno by crome.
runs like **** when its cold, at start up, idles great. tunned for WOT

ExplicitSpeed360

hooking up secondaries to vtec (IABs) will increase torque also at a lower RPM point...hooked up to vtec sol. I made 158 ft lbs of torque @ 3200 rpm...

92_VTEC_lude

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ExplicitSpeed360 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hooking up secondaries to vtec (IABs) will increase torque also at a lower RPM point...hooked up to vtec sol. I made 158 ft lbs of torque @ 3200 rpm...</TD></TR></TABLE>
please excuse my newbie but what or where is "vtec sol" you mentioned. I really need to do this mod right because this is my daily driving car so I need that low end power.
thankyou

ExplicitSpeed360

I had time so I made the drawing below on how to hook your Secondaires (IAB's) to vtec. Good for P28 H22A peeps.



Most H22's have a solenoid on the fuel rail or a emissions solenoid will work also as long as it has a 2 wire common round plug outlet and 2 vacuum nipples.

(Yellow Line) shows the Upper Vacuum line from the nipple of the solenoid to the air boost valve on the end of the intake plenum that actuates the secondaries.

(Blue Line) shows the Lower Vacuum line from the 2nd nipple of the solenoid to a nipple on the end of the intake manifold above the air boost valve. The vacuum line as has a check valve in it. This is where the air comes from I believe and the check valve releases it I believe at the certain point/signal.

(Blue Circle) shows the check valve inbetween the vaccum line going from the end of the intake manifold plenum to the bottom (2nd) nipple of the solenoid.

(Red Circle) is the plug outlet for a round common 2 wire Honda plug.
2 wires will be coming out of the plug.

(Pink Line) is a ground from 1 of the 2 wires on the solenoid plug circled in Red. Use a simple fish eye connector and ground it to the mounting bolt for the solenoid bracket.

(Black Circle) is the ground mounting point and a good place to mount the solenoid if you don't have the bracket I have that came from the engine.

(Green Line) is the wire that will be spliced into the Vtec Solenoid 1 wire setup you can use a special 3 way connector or do like what I did and soder it in. Make sure you use enough soder to make a solid connection. Use shrink wrap if you soder to protect against weather. This will complete the circuit so when Vtec signal is sent from the ecu or vafc it will also actuate Vtec and your Secondaries (IAB's) at the same time.

The outcome is if you priorly had Secondaries (IAB's) opened all the time before (not hooked up) you will gain bottom end torque and max torque will be at a lower RPM. This is good for performance and overall daily driver and mild to stock setups...better gas mileage I would think and getting up those hills will be much easier and no more bogging issues. I prefer the Secondaries hooked up this way it's a nice feeling in my car atleast it puts ya in the seat a lil more especially when it's in my CRX a 2200 lb car with me in it.

Outcome was 158 ft lbs of torque @ a low RPM of 3200 on a stock internal massaged jdm H22a.


Modified by ExplicitSpeed360 at 6:15 PM 9/22/2006

MadCityLude

Thanks ExplicitSpeed360 - I will be doing this when I get my chipped P06

92_VTEC_lude

Thankyou ExplicitSpeed360
very help up little write-up but very important for those with H22a and chipped ECU.
I looked around my car and found this EVAP solenoid next to the MAP sensor. It got 2 wires and 2 vaccum nipples, what should I do with the second vaccum nipple at the bottom of it? I think it is supposed to be connected to a vaccum source in which case where should I connect it to? I will go a and find a same solenoid in a junk yard around here and do the mod tomorrow. I also include a vaccum diagram from my repair manual so everyone can see which vaccum source we need to connect the nipple from the bottom of that EVAP solenoid to. In ExplicitSpeed360 picture it shows another vaccum line connect to the underside of the solenoid with some kind of check valve, is that the vaccum source number 12 in my diagram after the check valve. Thankyou for all your effort to make it very clear.




Modified by 92_VTEC_lude at 3:37 PM 9/22/2006


Modified by 92_VTEC_lude at 3:42 PM 9/22/2006

THC07

Awsome...


think i might try this as well
OBD2 harness is three wires at the soleniod.
im almost sure one can not be used. obd2 is weird though, we shall see

ExplicitSpeed360

Yes...92vtec I did forget the bottom nipple and check valve I made the Correction to my last post as well as the drawing so it's fixed...yes it's a 2 nipple vacuum line solenoid...and yes it appears it's the EVAP solenoid...I believe the JDM models had it on the fuel rail...