There are about 18 threads about this in our forum right now, and i have posted how to do this in other threads before, but now i will make a thread so you guys can SEARCH and find out the answer easily....

i cannot speak for the 5th gen prelude as i did mine on my 4th, but all signs point to that it will probably work for the 5th also....if anyone knows yes or no post up, but dont post asking if it will work....

AND DONT EVEN ASK ABOUT SWAPPING TO ATTS!!! I DONT KNOW/CARE

Parts needed:
<U> any </U> f or h series manual tranny (with the exception of the atts or s2000 tranny) (some f series may not fit the tranny engine mount correctly, but that can be modified easily)
5spd ecu
flywheel
clutch
shifter cables
shifter plate
shifter
master cylinder
slave clyinder - please buy both new, you wont regret it
pedals - usdm preferably but jdm can be used, just the jdm clutch pedal though, you will need a us brake pedal
clutch lines and damper
manual guage cluster (optional)
some 18 or 22 guage wire (about 5 feet)

Procedure:
1) Swap trannies, and no im not going to show how to do that....check behan's changing the clutch thread for that...

2) Take the heat shielding around the exhaust off up front

3) Unbolt the 1 bolt holding in the auto shift cable

4) Take out the center console, and unplug the connectors from the shifter, but first mark the wire that comes from the park position on the slider...cut that park wire out from the connector, and ground it, this fools the car to think you are in park always, so you can get the key out of the ign.


5) also mark the wires that come from the "hot" circuit on the reverse position, you will notice it, it is seperate from the reverse position indicator, but parallel on the slider, one of the wires gets power with the keys on (II) and the other one goes out to the reverse lights, run two wires from the reverse switch (the rubber coated extrusion on top of the tranny with two female/male connectors coming out)....it doesnt matter which wire goes to which, but run the power up to the switch, and then the wire coming back to the wire that goes out to the reverse lights

6) if you want some extra security, go buy a switch big enough to handle the two large guage wires on the brown plug, and connect them to it, this can be a kill switch...if not just butt connect them

7) take out the shifter, and cable, and then route the manual cables from the tranny, around the rear motor mount, into that hole, and then bolt down the shifter plate and
cables, and try to get the metal mounting thing on the cables to bolt up where the auto one did underneath

8) bolt the clutch line dampener in its spot on the passenger frame rail, and run the line over to the master cylinder area

9) put in the master cylinder, try to bench bleed it as best as you can first

10) change out the brake pedal, and put the clutch pedal assembly in, be sure to get rid of all the foam under its mounting spots first...

11) put in axles, halfshaft, fill up fluid, put everything together

12)install the guage cluster if you so wish....

13) bleed the clutch

DONE

let me know if i forgot anything


Modified by mgags7 at 12:48 PM 12/22/2005

 

You forgot the ECU.

here's an idea since you're being helpful. A lot of the time people are asking the cost for the swap as well as the parts associated with it. Maybe a price next to each part?? I went from auto to manual but this was at the same time as my engine swap, so I don't remember.

you forgot Clutch and Flywheel too

 

A 4th gen Jdm clutch pedal assembly can be used and jdm clutch pedal, just put some spacers between the firewall and clutch pedal assembly until the top mounting hole on the bracket lines up. Or just get a usdm one. The jdm brake pedal Cannot be used, use a usdm one.
Be sure to remove all foam stuff on firewall prior to installing clutch pedal assembly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
(some f series may not fit the tranny engine mount correctly, but that can be modified easily)</TD></TR></TABLE>

care to enligthen me, as per my other post recently, im having trouble mounting my gearbox mount to the chassis (BA8 ex-auto car) after swapping in a M2B4/H22 combo.

Kinda need a quick answer as i want to paint my engine bay soon and if i have to weld in another bracket i want to do it now!

Cheers in advance

 

hi mate will i need to change the hub asemblies for the drive shafts for manual conversion
cheers

 

No

 

Might as well put this in here

Manual transmission mount bracket


Automatic transmission mount bracket


I am waiting on my manual mount bracket to arrive. It can be bought from majestic honda.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1926336 More info

 

http://www.mazmo.com/zameoj/swap.htm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SteveoBA8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Might as well put this in here

Manual transmission mount bracket


Automatic transmission mount bracket


I am waiting on my manual mount bracket to arrive. It can be bought from majestic honda.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1926336 More info </TD></TR></TABLE>

Is that something that NEEDS to be changed? Or could I just use the same hole?

 

You *can* do it without changing the mount, my car has been like that for 4 years now, but you'll get a lot of excess vibration from it, and getting the mounts in is a real bitch of a job.

 

heres a few pics, i just swapped my 4th gen, 6 months ago
lol! now time to work...

drilling the mount 1/2" hole

still drilling

drilling... once you are through the first part of the mount then install the mount and use a floor jack/engine crane to support the transmission level again and use the mount as a drilling guide to drill through the back side of the mount, it will work perfectly

you need three bolts exactly like this for the new axle half shaft on the driver side to mount it to the engine.

half shaft to go in transmission


shifter literally bolts right in, sooo easy!

the height of bolt difference for flexplate (auto) and flywheel, u need the longer ones, get em' from Honda

heres my M2S4 tranny, btw, when it is out install new axle seals and check that is shifts through every gear, its a lot easier to rebuild now then later.

and i noticed the auto weighed a ton, so i decided to try and weigh each of the transmissions to see the difference, NOTE: this is not SUPER ACCURATE, i did it to the best of my abilities with a bathroom scale, but the auto tranny was-141lbs, without torque converter, and the manual was 79lbs without clutch/flywheel, huge weight shed! (both transmissions had no fluid)
and as a closing note this has made the most drastic and noticible performance difference for my lude, i dont know how i drove it before! this swap is worth every penny! if anyone needs more pictures or infor please contact me i have a bunch of pics and info.

good luck to all doing it





Modified by h23prelude at 2:20 PM 1/26/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You *can* do it without changing the mount, my car has been like that for 4 years now, but you'll get a lot of excess vibration from it, and getting the mounts in is a real bitch of a job.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How much excess is "a lot"? I'm getting a parts car, do you recommend me taking the manual mount off of that? or just drilling through it like h23prelude? I'm not too experienced with welding at all.

 

i'd drill the hole , its not that hard, just get a 1/2" drill bit, a center punch, and use the mount as a guide to make the hole straight, if you take out your battery any standard drill fits where you drill, its easier then it looks, personally i wouldnt mess with trying to weld the other in, just my 2 cents.

good luck!

 

Would you be able to better explain the wiring with the gear selector? I'm getting a little confused with the write up.

 

for the wiring aspect of it, all i did was take the clutch switch attached to the clutch pedal assy. you can see the wires coming off it in this pic

then make a small jumper wire like pictured, this will be cut in two and attached to the two wires coming from the clutch pedal switch

when you remove your auto shifter you will have to up plug a large brown connector with 2 wires going through it. to test if you have the right 2 wires simply use a powered test light and place the shifter in park, the light should be on, then put it in a drive gear and it will turn off. basically these are the wires allowing your starter to workin park and neutral.

use the car side of the connector and place the jumper harness in the plug and snip it in two and connect the 2 wires from the clutch switch to those two brown wires. this allows your starter to only operate when your clutch is completely depressed. it does not matter which wire from the clutch switch you you attach to which wire on the brown connector, even if you mix them up it ill still work

 

So I guess I'll have to change my axles and get H23 half shafts and axles right? Or can I just change the driver side one?

What about the radiator? When I had to buy a new one a few years ago, they asked if my car was auto or manual. Does it matter?

 

anyone?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bboixtc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about the radiator? When I had to buy a new one a few years ago, they asked if my car was auto or manual. Does it matter?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, auto radiators have a tranny cooler for the AT fluid, but if you have a manual you just use a regular radiator. Though a rad for an auto can be used on a manual, you just don't hook anything up to the tranny cooler on the rad.

 

I like to plug those holes, but yeah, brandon's right.

 

What do I plug them with? I've never done anything like this so I apologize for the stupid questions. =p I was reading another Auto to manual conversion on preludecentral or preludepower.com, and noticed that it has a step talking about a 30 amp relay. Is that all necessary?


"Re-install passenger side kick panel. Unplug both clutch switch connectors from the assembly. Connect both solid black wires together, extend them and connect to the black wire in the shifter harness.

Extend the black/pink wire and connect to the pink wire in the shifter harness.

Extend the black/green wire to the shifter harness and install a female spade connector to the end of it. Connect this wire to terminal 86 on a 30amp relay.

Cut the connector off of the big black/white and black/red wires that are beside the shifter harness. Install a female spade to the end of the black/red wire and hook it to terminal 87 on the relay.

Install a female spade to the end of the black/white wire and add a 6 inch section of wire in with it.

Connect the black/white wire to terminal 30 on the relay. "

 

Not sure, maybe that's something for cruise control?? No idea really dude, didn't bother with that.

 

all those extra bolts you said i needed, can i just take them off the f22 motor and tranny? like those longer bolts for the flywheel? Also those wires from the clutch, one goes to the brown connector? doesn't matter which one? and the other is grounded to the chasis? I'm a little confused as to where the wires from the clutch go to.

 

anyone?

 

up, ray needs some answers

 

i did this about a year ago...i didnt do any of those wires expect for reverse lights and i jumped the two wires on the big brown clip so i wouldnt need the sensor on the clutch pedal. sorry its a little vague pm me if u have questions.