B20VtecVillain

Have a GSR chassis Teg with full 36mm 5 lug JDM Type R conversion and the passenger side rear brake caliper is eating up pads in ~1500 miles. Have changed the pads twice on the right (passenger) side in the last 3200 miles. It wears them down to the metal that fast, wheel gets super hot, and now rotor looks toasted, so I'm assuming that caliper is hanging up and keeping the brake engaged. All 3 other corners are fine, and brakes feel and perform normal. Still easily able to drive the car hard and have no issues, with the exception of now my brake pad is down to the metal again. Any thoughts? Is it time for a new caliper or does this sound more like an E brake issue? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Runnerdown

Most likely just the caliper. But I would double check the cable by pulling the linkage back ( at the caliper) and making sure it's disengaged.

Calif_Kid

One other thing - are the sliding pins OK (move easily), and have you removed, cleaned, and applied lubrication to them? If you do pull out the sliding pins, then make sure to know where each came from, as there are a Pin A and a Pin B (parts 19 & 34) per OEM Acura INTEGRA HATCHBACK 2000 REAR BRAKE (DISK) (1) parts - Jim

B20VtecVillain

I haven't yet, won't have the new rotors and pads home until around 8PM tonight so I will tear into it tomorrow. My plan is to replace the rotor and pads obviously, but I was also going to remove the pins and take a wire wheel to everything else with some Brake Clean and clean it all up, apply a good bit of brake lube to everything, check the E-brake cable and then reassemble. I should be able to tell relatively fast if that fixes the issue, and if not I guess I'll just be ordering a new caliper.
If that is the case, any problem with going aftermarket vs Honda OEM? If I had a real DC2-R I would certainly stick to OEM R parts, but since I'm just a GSR with a lot of Type R goodies, I was thinking any company's replacement rear caliper would be fine. Am I wrong in thinking this for any reason? Thanks again for the input, as I am an engine builder/installer but have next to no experience with brakes or suspension Components lol.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Are the caliper pins siezed?

Is the "cross" on the caliper piston set so that the brake pad nub will fit inside it? Does the INBOARD pad have the nub? That alignment allows the e brake to work and retract properly.

If not, try disconnecting the e-brake cable on that caliper and see if that helps.

It would also be helpful to turn the pistons all the way back in. Then put the brakes back together, and have someone apply them a few times so you can observe and find out what is siezing up.

B20VtecVillain

Thanks I'm going to dig into it again today. Last time I replaced the pads ( last month lol) the driver side was still 80%+ life and the passenger side was down to the metal backing. Removed caliper, used the tool to put the piston back in flat, put in new pads then bolted everything back up. I did not look to see where the "cross" on the piston was in relation to the "nub" on the pad as I didn't know the cross was correlated to pad position. Also,I put the new pads on the way the old ones came out; pad with the longer clip thing sticking off it went on the inside, closest to axle/muffler, and the pad without the long clip went on the outside facing side closest to the face of the wheel. I did not inspect the pins last time or anything else, as I was in a hurry and needed to use the car. Now that it wore down new ceramic pads again straight to the metal within 1000 miles or so, I'm more concerned and will look at it thoroughly this time. I dont know if I can get anyone to come over today and pump the brakes for me so I can observe, but I will definately be taking everything apart, cleaning/lubing everything, checking e brake like you said etc. Thabks for all the help!

B20VtecVillain

Another question that's probably dumb but I couldn't find a direct answer yet; are the rear brake pads for 01 DC2-R OEM brakes interchangeable side to side? Common logic would dictate no, since they have that clip in different positions, but since my lazy *** just replaced the pads without fixing the issue twice now, I now have an extra "set" of rear pads but they are both driver side. Didn't know if this was possible.
Side Note-
these damn 14mm on the rear side that hold the caliper bracket on are STUCK! Not enough room for my 1/2 impact and my 1/4" impact isn't strong enough to break it free. Got it soaked in some penetrating catalyst now and I'm gonna go at it wit my hand tools. Why I chose to do this at home instead of at the shop is beyond me right now lol.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

The pads are interchangeable side to side. The one with the nub and the squeak indicator is the inboard pad. Rotate it 180 deg for use on the other side.

B20VtecVillain

Excellent. I knew they would fit on either side, but I didn't know if that long nub had to be on either the top or bottom only, and if it would negatively impact braking using them on the wrong side. Thanks for clearing that up!