Bently_Coop

Ricer parts

But seriously why the brace?

whited

What is ricer?

The brace is because the rear subframe is bad, and I want to make sure that after it is fixed it has some extra strength.

The 3 inch exhaust will actually still have the same tips as it did previously, and a muffler that will fit better.

Bently_Coop

Was referring to the brace.

Thought about the braces to, but generally they are only needed for 92+ chassis cars.

whited

No. I believe the brace is absolutely needed. 92+ has a problem with sway bar mounts ripping out when upgraded. 88-91 has a problem in general with strength and welds on the rear sub-frame.

The 88-91 brace bolts up for extra support, where the 92+ doesn't.

Just google image search CRX rear subframe issues.

whited

Started ripping out the interior to get to a spot that is under the driver's seat



At least I had a spot to put the interior parts that was off the ground.



Had to pull up the carpet to hammer down the notch I found, and be able potentially weld it.



Close up of the hole/notch. No idea how it got there, but I didn't do it. Definitely looks like the car was lowered onto something.



After hammering it down



The right rear subframe twist



The left rear subframe



The left rear subframe. This comparison is the best angle to see the problem.





Both cars on the lift measuring comparing to ensure pulling the frame out fix it. It didn't still a 1/4 inch off.



Also did a fuel pump while the tank was out.



Took off the headers to weld up a new flange







After getting the header off I decided not to cut and weld on the flange. The new 3 inch flange lined right up, only had to drill out some room for the bolts.

Bently_Coop

What pump did you go with? I see what you mean about the subframe there. That is interesting.

whited

Complete view with brace


The patch


From under


All lined up now


Some of the new 3 inch exhaust


Built a new work bench



The Top, still going to edge it.

whited

The most expensive one that advance sold.

whited

Well I got the interior back in. I also mounted the seat belts to the floor with the seat belt anchors I got earlier, and I changed the door sills to the 88 version since I don't have seat belts on the doors anymore.



I removed the rear engine brace/mount because the lower two bolts where always a problem. Never got anything to fit in. Found out that the holes on the brace where 1/2 inch, but the correct bolts where 9/16. So I had to drill those out. I went to honda in search of a smaller length for the bottom bolt, since my brace bends in at the bottom. The options should be here Saturday.

I had to take apart most of the back of the engine, to get that brace out. What a pain in the ***.





After putting on the asr subframe brace, the stock rear swaybar no longer fit. The center bent in part came into contact with the brace. So I had to go get a new sway bar. I got ASR's 32mm hollow sway bar with 0.095 Inch Wall. I didn't ask for the gold arms, but don't think they look half bad. It was a pain in the *** to align, and get it straight, but I think it will work good. I broke one of their AL collar locks on the shaft cause it was just to thin. I need to find a stronger replacement.









The sway bar is align also to give me just enough space for my 3 inch exhaust. I wanted the sway bar first just so I could weld the exhaust to clear it.

Bently_Coop

Nice updates.

I ended up with a Accord sub-frame bolt on the lower mount for my project. Do you have a uni-bit? See link below. Worked well from both sides and didn't have to de-bur it after.

whited

I got pictures of mine, I'll share soon.


But, I have been trying to get these MR5s together properly. There were some stripped threads when I got them. Has anyone ever helicoiled these barrels before? These are just a huge pain.

whited

Well I got my car aligned last week. The guy took about 8 hours on my car, super ****, and took his time. We did the final adjustments with me in the car, and here are the specs.

Caster: 4.0 (OEM max spec 3.0)
Camber: -2.0 front, -1.9 rear (OEM spec -1.0 to -1.5)
Toe: 0.06

The ride height was raised 1/4 inch, it settled a bit lower from the earlier pictures.

I am now waiting on getting my hagerty insurance approved.

whited

Hagerty wouldn't insure it. Stating its a tuner not an antique. I need a 5 yo or younger daily for them to insure it.


Anyways drove her for about 30 miles. Rear tires were rubbing on the fenders. Need to roll them and mill down the spacers.


Today I drove her just to the gas station. When i came out she starts but immediately dies. Towing her back to the shop now.

~sp33~

GL with the fix, probably something silly.. main fuel relay?

whited

I replaced the main relay with a Honda oem part when I did the swap.

What is going to be hard is the fact that mostly everything is new.

whited

It was the ignition switch. Just pull it off of the junk car.

jonGSR

Love the garage setup with all 4 crx's!!

Did you just hammer the bent subframe and weld in a new patch?

whited

Thanks.

No. Uni spot and pulled. Got it straighter, but the metal eventually ripped. The patch was because of the torn metal when trying to pull it. I didn't do it, but was told it was 16 hours of work by my cousin. The first day, he thought he had it right, but when measuring off of another CRX it was still 1/4 inch off. When I got it aligned, the computer measured .06 degrees off. Which is totally an acceptable measurement.

whited

Drove her for another 100 miles. In stop and go traffic she overheats (didn't over heat completely, I noticed and let her cool down). Top coolant hose is swelled up, and coolant is leaking from each side.

BTW I am running Honda Blue coolant.

I am going to replace the thermostat with an Honda one, I did put a new advance one in. I am going to change the clamps to OEM as well. Additionally, I'll put a new temporary top hose on. I am considering silicon aftermarket coolant hoses, any opinions on them?

Lastly, the radiator cap is leaking as well. It doesn't seem to fit right. Anyone know what cap to use with Koyo Radiators?

AZCRXSI

Oh crap, that would be frustrating. I have never had any luck with thermostats outside of Honda.

What about using the Koyo cap? Not sure if this is for a standard radiator of aluminum. Check it out and see if it works.

P/N => Koyo Radiator Cap SK-C13

whited

Will do Thanks!

whited

The car is no longer over heating, but I had to trip the relay to always be on.

Now, I have to deal with an about 3mm steering wheel shudder at 85mph.

And, just some random pictures I have taken...


Bolts and parts from final clean up.



The ASR swaybar came with these super thin AL shaft locks. I upgraded to some steel ones, but had to trim them to clear.



The bay.




How she sits after the first full alignment.



3 inch exhaust mid-pipe. I wrapped the exhaust portion around the gas tank.



Some of my welds



Some more of my welds



Some of my weld burns



Honda Thermostat and hose clamps



Honda Thermostat



The header skid plate didn't last long. I re-attached it this time with 3 hose clamps. Saw this while doing the thermostat.

whited

I also started some audio upgrades. It kindof sucked not having a radio, a tape deck that didn't work, and such a loud exhaust.



All the wires.



Where I tried hiding the antenna, since the oem was shaved. It isn't working though.



Where I tried hiding the antenna, since the oem was shaved. It isn't working though.



The headunit and the amp.



The speakers. Had to go with 4 inch in the back because of the rollbar.



Put the amp right behind the headunit.



Put the amp right behind the headunit.

Bently_Coop

Looking good.

What do you mean "trip the relay to be always on"? Fan switch? you may need a shroud. Also if your fan switch is on the block you can update the thermostat housing for the later versions with the switch on the housing.

FYI those antennas suck. Had a Metra one and replaced it with a factory whip.

whited

The fan relay which is on the front right inner fender, I took off the cap and soldered the relay to always be on. But first, I replaced both temperature sensors, with non oem ones I had lying around. I also pulled swapped the relay from another car. Probed some of the wiring, and couldn't see why there should be a problem. It was late so that is when I just jumped the relay.

The audio sounds pretty good with the amp. I don't have the rear speakers in yet, as I have to make a custom bracket to have them fit in.