tlarimer

iTrader: (3)

This is a DIY for installing the JDM/EDM LHD power door locks and power windows into any 92-95 2/3 door civic. This will give you the full JDM/EDM function, minus the AUTO UP/DOWN feature, but this is controlled by the master switch, while maintaining the LHD of our USDM civics. The JDM/EDM power door locks don't use a power actuator to unlock the drivers door, instead you use your key or inner door lock **** to manually lock/unlock drivers door and it sends a signal to the passenger actuator to lock/unlock passenger automatically.

This power door conversion is very similar to the multiple write ups i've seen here on H-T, so I wont go into detail about the actual conversion. I will highlight the differences and different parts needed versus the traditional USDM EJ1 power door swap.

References:
92-95 power windows,locks and mirrors the right way
Deschlong's guide to 92-95 power windows, locks and power folding heated mirror's



Parts list:
JDM/EDM RHD or LHD 2/3 door power door wiring harnesses(I will cover wiring changes for using RHD door harness on LHD doors)
72150-SR8-J50 LHD door lock assembly with 3 pin actuator connector(available from US dealers)
USDM 92 95 civic Ex 2/4 door passenger door lock actuator only(coupe or sedan will work and both are tested by me)
JDM/EDM power door panels without power door lock switch hole(USDM EJ1 power door panels have the power door lock switch hole)
JDM/EDM power lock module(USDM module may work, but it is untested by me)
USDM/EDM LHD 93-95 EJ1 or USDM 94-01 DC2/4 coupe power window regulators(Both have been tested by me)
USDM/EDM LHD power window switches(Master and passenger switch)
USDM/EDM LHD power window switch bezels(Don't sweat getting these used, you can get them new from Honda for $15 each)


Pictures below show the difference between USDM EJ1 power door lock assembly, USDM EH3 manual door lock assembly and the JDM/EDM EG power door lock assembly. Notice that the actual door lock assemblies are identical, just the actuators are different



Ok, so after you install the cabin harness for your Power door conversion, you need to install the JDM/EDM LHD or RHD door harnesses. If using the RHD harness like I did, you need to install the master door harness onto your left/drivers door and the passenger harness onto your right/passenger door.

The wiring changes are done on the master window switch connector and passenger window switch connector. I can't get the diagram to load, but looking at the back/wire side of the connectors top left being Pin A, depin the wiring and repin it as follows:
Master window switch: top row
Pin A-BLU/YEL
Pin B-BLU/GRN
Pin C- WHT/YEL
Pin D- Empty
Bottom row
Pin E- BLK 2
Pin F- BLU/BLK
Pin G- BLU
Pin H- RED/YEL
Pin I- BLK3
Pin J- RED/BLU



Passenger window switch, looking at it from the wire side, starting at the left as pin A, depin wiring and repin as follows:
Passenger window switch:
Pin A- BLU/YEL
Pin B- BLU/RED
Pin C- BLU/GRN
Pin D- BLU/BLK
Pin E- BLU/WHT


Install the new SR8-J50 door lock assembly in place of your existing door lock assembly. Plug in the 3 pin connector from the door lock assembly into the power door harness, done.


Install the drivers door power window regulator w/motor in place of your manual window regulator. Plug in the 4 pin connector from the power window regulator into the power door harness, drivers side done.

Install the passenger side door lock actuator using the 3 screws, plug in the 2 pin connector from the actuator into the power door harness, done.

Install the passenger door power window regulator w/motor in place of your manual window regulator. Plug in the 2 pin connector from the power window regulator into the power door harness, passenger side done.

At this point make sure you installed 4-20A fuses and the power window relay in the fuse box.

Now test your power windows and door locks to make sure everything is functioning correctly before putting your new JDM/EDM door panels on the doors.

Finished project with JDM/EDM door panels installedNotice no power door lock switch



And again, a special thank to Deschlong for the manuals and bouncing ideas and trial and error of what actuators work.

tlarimer

iTrader: (3)

Updated

tlarimer

iTrader: (3)

Updated, with references

Andyb55

great diy write up

tlarimer

iTrader: (3)

Finally finished and updated, added schematics and diagrams

Mods feel free to add to FAQ's, if it's up to the standard

zeitlosFuhrer

ive been struggling with the passenger side here, driver side is working (including auto down) but the passenger side wont budge. I've tried so many combination of wiring it up, still no luck!
I know my switch/motor and everything is good as i've checked them out already...

Where to the rest of the wires run to?
Pin A- BLU/YEL
Pin B- BLU/RED - To motor
Pin C- BLU/GRN
Pin D- BLU/BLK
Pin E- BLU/WHT - To motor

can't I just run them right to the master power window switch and it should work? i've checked the schematic but passenger side doesn't make sense to me, drivers side wasn't a problem (don't ask why or how, I know passenger side looks like it should be the easier of the two!!!)
any help would be awesome
I guess ill add that right now, im just running power direct from a fuse to Pin "C" on the master, and then ground to "H" pin to get the power to the switch....

thanks guys!!!

tlarimer

iTrader: (3)

Are the fuses for the passenger side installed? Is the master window switch lock for the passenger window off? Did you verify voltage to the passenger window switch connector?

DenisOlivarez

Great post!
Exactly what I was looking for!
I'm rebuilding a 95 SI that originally doesn't came with power windows/door and I'm instaling pretty much OEM parts, even wiring.

Thanks

live4soccer7

I would assume that the power actuators simply bolt into a manual door. Is this correct? or are there any further modification for them to fit (not worried about switches or wiring)?

Edit: One more question, are the 4dr and 2dr actuators the same? If so, do the 4door ones have to come from the front two doors? I skimmed through the whole thread and didn't see the info or must have missed it somehow.

BiggieBert

My manual doors have the provisions however the plastic liner would need to be changed or just cut whichever you prefer. I am probably doing this over the weekend..

live4soccer7

I would just be installing the actuator in the door and not the switch panel. Would it still fit without cutting? Anyone have a pic of the stock actuator installed?

BiggieBert

wait i for some reason was thinking you were talking about the control box it would require cutting or replacing the plastic liner, everything else should bolt right in. I'll be working on it today I will keep you posted.

tlarimer

iTrader: (3)

Information from post #1 in this thread:
Parts list:
JDM/EDM RHD or LHD 2/3 door power door wiring harnesses(I will cover wiring changes for using RHD door harness on LHD doors)
72150-SR8-J50 LHD door lock assembly with 3 pin actuator connector(available from US dealers)
USDM 92 95 civic Ex 2/4 door passenger door lock actuator only(coupe or sedan will work and both are tested by me)
JDM/EDM power door panels without power door lock switch hole(USDM EJ1 power door panels have the power door lock switch hole)
JDM/EDM power lock module(USDM module may work, but it is untested by me)
USDM/EDM LHD 93-95 EJ1 or USDM 94-01 DC2/4 coupe power window regulators(Both have been tested by me)
USDM/EDM LHD power window switches(Master and passenger switch)
USDM/EDM LHD power window switch bezels(Don't sweat getting these used, you can get them new from Honda for $15 each)

tlarimer

iTrader: (3)

Just cut an X into the plastic lining where the control box mounts, but pop the plastic inserts for the mounting screws in over the plastic lining to lock it in place.

live4soccer7

Thanks, I appreciate it. I have most of the parts for the proper swap arriving soon.

BiggieBert

Yea I though I had gotten the proper left, driver, door actuator but I was mistaken so I wasn't able to do the conversion... fml.. Only thing I am missing, there was a 95 Ex at the yard to, I'm like damn y u no 94 arhhh..@

cyro

Reviving a 3 month old thread

5 wire master/control door actuator LHD. Its basically the USDM EJ1 and EH3 combined.
Now you can unlock all doors using key or the lock tab. useful when you have alarm system.





Master/control actuator wires
1. white/red = lock (power motor)
2. yellow/red = unlock (power motor)
3. black = ground (internal micro switch)
4. blue/white = lock (internal micro switch)
5. blue/red = unlock (internal micro switch)

BTW I don't know which car these actuators came from, I just bought them from ebay and soldered the 5th wire to the micro switch.

Also you can use door actuators from sedan to hatch and coupe and vice versa

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

^ Great post ..... but, PLEASE explain further where the soldering was required. I always suspected this was possible but never investigated. Something that would be really helpful is to have a pic of INSIDE the actuator to show where you soldered the wire.

Thanks!

cyro

Sorry I thought no one would need this mod. So I went on without documenting it.

Tools
1. phillips screw driver
2. precision phillips screw driver
3. soldering iron, soldering pste, and soldering lead
4. small flat nose pliers

level of difficulty: easy if you know how to solder

Anyway here it goes

To open the master/control actuator, remove 4 screw around it. Then carefully pry it open from where the 2 pairs of wire come out. Don't worry nothing falls of and no sudden ejection of internal parts


This is whats inside

The micro switch in attached to the actuator cover via 2 small screws and metal holder. remove 2 small screws and metal holder then I used small flat nose pliers to carefully pull out the pcb board.

Bottom view of the board

I've already soldered the blue/red wire here so you can't see the hole where you should solder. Its in the middle of blue/white and black wire. You'll never miss it.

Top view of the board

And thats the top part where the actual soldering is done, there's black insulator over the oem solder of blue/white and balck wire.

Put everything back together, add some more grease then that's it.

BTW grease the latch mechanism, because overtime it gets sticky. I already burned 2 generic actuators motors and broke 2 outer door opener due to sticky latch.

angrysmileyface

I actually tried this a while ago (6 or 8 monthes ago) and was not able to make it work, for some reason the extra wire wasnt functioning as planned when I hooked up the CR-v's keyless entry box. I eventually went with an actuator from an 00 oddessey because I got tired of fooling with the homemade aspect.

cyro

Did you have the correct central lock module? It should have both blue/white and blue/red wires.

angrysmileyface

it had all the wires but still did not work. you have understand I was retrofitting a crv module into an ej1 to get keyless entry


Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android

HiTec

I found out that Jazz/Insight/S2000 (Odyssey too?) front left power door lock motor/switch fits right into EG/EJ:s locks.

This is the drivers side stock door lock with switch:



And here is the lock with Insight door lock motor/switch combo:



Comparison:





Completely plug and play





I needed to use spare ABS-sensor connector. I didnt have any grey 2-way Honda connectors



Done! Ready for Avital 5303

angrysmileyface

The 00 odyssey's actuator fits onto the 93 Coupes door release. I found documentation elsewhere that says its compatible with the S2000 lock mechanism.

weatherall123

Excellent write up! Very thorough and well thought out!