93Accord2.2

I recently bought a 93 Accord EX(White). I need some cheap mod suggestions, or even some stereo suggestions, and whatnot. Anything to make my car look better. But its gotta be cheap. Cuz Im just a Junior in Highschool.

Someone please delete my other thread...

The_Todd

Cheap and performance do not go together first off....as far as asthetics it will still cost you some money. A drop will help the look of your car and handling, and you could add a front lip and some wheels but again your getting into money. I suggest saving up some money so you can do it right the first time

Riceburner247

iTrader: (1)

I agree. The best thing to buy first would be suspension or wheels.

Springs and struts CAN be found at a good price, but just because it's a good price still doesn't mean it will be cheap. I think the best setup is an aftermarket drop spring paired with an aftermarket strut. Decent springs usually run from $150 to $300. Struts can be as low as $250 for a pair - $400 for a set, maybe cheaper. I've seen sets of Tokico Blues on Ebay go for $400 a set.

Wheels are a different story. If you decide to buy wheels from a big wheel distributor, they might let you make monthly payments. You'd probably have to have your parents make an account there though. You could also buy the wheels and tires outright, but that can be a lot of $ all at once.

88dakinecrx

For a little help w/ your stereo.... I had to turn the stereo mounting bracket in my 92 Accord 180 degrees, to catch the Sony HU I installed. Apparently the factory deck is longer than most aftermarket decks. Another problem encountered was the coin cup under the stereo mounts directly to the factory stereo, and there is no where to mount it on the aftermarket stereos w/ the original mounting equipment, so some modifications are required, I used some muffler hanging straps and screwed it to the Sony HU.

93Accord2.2

Oh, I think I can do without a coin cup. But thanks for the info with the stereoo, and advice on uograding my car But how muc would i/h/e actually help me, or would it be a waste of money?

patastinky

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93Accord2.2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh, I think I can do without a coin cup. But thanks for the info with the stereoo, and advice on uograding my car But how muc would i/h/e actually help me, or would it be a waste of money?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Stick to hitting the books n00b, you obviously have no idea of what it means to 'mod" ur car... Cheap!! what **** kind of question is that.. "you seperate the Men from the BOYS, by how expensive the toys"

spankey167

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by patastinky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

"you seperate the Men from the BOYS, by how expensive the toys" </TD></TR></TABLE>

Great quote Sig material

D16Z6racing

DROP
~ Tokico HP Shocks
~ H&R Sport Springs

I.C.E.
~ Pioneer CD Player
~ Pionner 6 1/2 (all 4 speakers)

STYLE
~ 94/95 Accord GReddy Front Lip
~ Euro Clear Corner Lenses
~ Euro Clear Bumper Lenses
~ Clear/Red Tail Lamps

PERFORMANCE
~ Universal Muffler (of your choice)
~ Custom 2 1/4 Cat-Back Exhaust

...my quick $.02

patastinky

haha no doubt thanx

fw190bvi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D16Z6racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
STYLE
~ Euro Clear Corner Lenses
~ Euro Clear Bumper Lenses
~ Clear/Red Tail Lamps
</TD></TR></TABLE>

BOO!!!...do NOT wast the $200+ ull end up paying for all that....the stock versions of these look fine IMO, and ull just end up melting a turn signal housing w/ "euro" lenses....thats just MY $.02.....(no offense d16zracing).....also, w/e I/H/E you will feel a bit of a difference, and the car might actually SEEM alot faster than it was (mainly due to sound)....if u want ur car to be more enjoyable and ur on a budget, then more power , better handeling

AngryTroll

The top 5 pimptacular mods.


#1.....Flashing valve stem caps.

#2.....A 3' wing bolted to your trunk with lag bolts. That way you can always find your car at the mall.

#3.....A 5" LCD monitor mounted to your dash with drywall screws.

#4.....A $200 CAI with the air filter held three inches from the ground with electrical tape.

#5.....Your name spelled out with stickers above the drive's door handle.


This should be a sticky...

ACCORDianate

To add to the top 5 pimptacular mods:

6)...35 pounds of vinyl graphics

7)...Your last name spelled out in old english lettering in an arc across your back window

8)...Roof air scoop

9)...LED washer nozzles

10)...A 'type R' badge on anything that is not a 'type R'.

D16Z6racing

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fw190bvi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BOO!!!...do NOT wast the $200+ ull end up paying for all that....the stock versions of these look fine IMO, and ull just end up melting a turn signal housing w/ "euro" lenses....thats just MY $.02.....(no offense d16zracing).....also, w/e I/H/E you will feel a bit of a difference, and the car might actually SEEM alot faster than it was (mainly due to sound)....if u want ur car to be more enjoyable and ur on a budget, then more power , better handeling </TD></TR></TABLE>

None taken. We all know what can happen with APC products. Haven't seen melting, but have had a few crack and leak water inside. My response was more after his....."it's gotta be cheap" and "anything to make my car look better".....saying in his first post. I never noticed his second post....which I now see and will respond to.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93Accord2.2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how muc would i/h/e actually help me, or would it be a waste of money?</TD></TR></TABLE>

$500+ for i/h/e. Depends on where you buy from and if you go custom or 'brand name'. A header will run from $100-$400, exhaust $250-$600, and intake $20-$200......

.....and will this be a waste of money?.....well, what are your future plans/goals with this car? N/A build, turbo, sc, complete swap? Answer that and then we'll know if it's a waste of money or not.

93Accord2.2

Its be turbo over anything else...

92accordDx

go with suspension first. then get some wheels and save for a swap

D16Z6racing

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93Accord2.2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its be turbo over anything else...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok, turbo rules out getting intake and a header.....they can't be used with the turbo kit.

I believe GReddy EVO is the only direct bolt-on exhaust for a turbo set up on a 4th Gen Accord. EVO is GReddy's turbo application cat-back. Not sure of the diameter though. I wouldn't install it until you go get the turbo though, cause the diameter will be to big just for a normal application to the stock F22 with nothing else.

Look into a custom 3" cat-back too. Might be a bit cheaper.

...but this isn't gonna be cheap...and you mentioned a low budget.

ACCORDianate

Stolen from a Honda Ultimate Resource CD:
A while back when I first got my car, I was fiddling around trying to find all the stock parts I could modify for little or no money. I took out my injectors to see if there was a way to modify them and indeed there was. I was looking for something internal, but I found something a little easier. There is a small filter located in the top of the injector that's supposed to filter out any last little particles that could get inside the engine. Well I wanted an extra edge so I removed the filters to get a few extra cc's of fuel. The filter is an orange cylinder with three "sides", each side having a small screen which acts as a filter. So take the cylinder filter out of the injector(just lifts out) and get a razor and cut out the small screens. It sounds complicated, but once you remove the injector you will see how it works and what the screen looks like. But isn't this a stupid idea?? Sure, it sounds like one. However, I removed the injectors when my car has 65,000 miles and there were NO particles or any kind of debris in the injector filters. I figured that I will take the chance because the car went so long and the filters were still brand new and if something did happen(the worst thing that can happen is a small particle getting into the injector and partially clogging the flow, if that. gasoline will dissapate just about anything), I could use it as an excuse to get the injectors blueprinted. Well I drove the car for another 50,000 miles with no problems at all. I ran a bottle of injector cleaner through the tank every few months which might have helped, but it was more of a superstitious thing. I then sent the injectors out to RC Engineering to get blueprinted(something I had planned on doing anyways) and they said the injectors were clean as a whistle. So if you want some extra fuel, remove the injector filters. I did it and had no problems whatsoever. To remove the injectors you will have to remove the 3, 10mm nuts holding down the fuel rail. Lift up the fuel rail and you'll see the injectors and the orange filters located on top of them. The filters lift out and you can begin modification. As it turns out, several of the major Honda tuners in the Phoenix area have been doing this mod with turbocharged cars to get extra fuel flow. I know of 4-5 cars that have done this and no problems have been reported.


I know its a ghetto mod, but he was looking for cheap mods, was he not?

ACCORDianate

And another stolen from the Honda Resource CD:Just about every stock car has a feature called the cold start valve. The cold start valve is located on the bottom of the throttle body and it has two lines that run into it, one in and one out. The lines transfer coolant which in a cold start situation, helps warm up the engine faster by warming up the air in the throttle body via-coolant. In a cold climate(one that has regular temps below freezing) it has a purpose, but in summer months or a climate that doesn't have a winter of freezing temps, the cold start valve hurts hp because hot air is bad air. So you have two lines to modify:

1. The coolant line coming out of the block into the cold start valve, and
2. The coolant line coming out of the cold start valve and back into the block.

The mod is simple: Bypass the valve by running line #1 where line #2 connects back into the block. Now you have coolant going out of the block and back into the block, which is essentially what it did before, but it doesn't go through the throttle body which drstically reduces air temps in the intake manifold. This whole cold start valve is just for warming up a very cold car, but it's not needed in a hot climate. V8 guys have been doing this for years in F-Bodies and Mustangs with all kinds of success. The idle may change, but again, that's life. People have reported up to 8hp at the wheels with this mod alone.