Honda-Tech - Honda Forum Discussion
Phearable Chipped P28 ECU
Phearable Chipped P28 ECU
0 2009/01/29 13:31:05
0 2009/01/29 13:36:26
White LEDs from Oznium.com For my climate control I used this LED module with white LEDs in it (the long black skinny one)... (http://www.oznium.com/led-modules) ...only because I had previously cut the bulb sockets off for other bulbs. Had the bulb sockets still been there I would have just used the same bulbs as I used in the cluster, which is what I recommend doing. Once again I recommend the T1.5-xHP bulbs due to them having a wider beam than their cheaper counterparts. (http://superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=CAR&next=50#T1.5-xHP) What you'll do with these is just pull them out of the socket they come with, and push them into the socket already on the climate control. It's a direct swap. There are 2 bulbs in the climate control. All of the LED bulbs are polarized, so if they don't light up, just flip them around to reverse the polarity.
White LEDs from Oznium.com For my climate control I used this LED module with white LEDs in it (the long black skinny one)... (http://www.oznium.com/led-modules) ...only because I had previously cut the bulb sockets off for other bulbs. Had the bulb sockets still been there I would have just used the same bulbs as I used in the cluster, which is what I recommend doing. Once again I recommend the T1.5-xHP bulbs due to them having a wider beam than their cheaper counterparts. (http://superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=CAR&next=50#T1.5-xHP) What you'll do with these is just pull them out of the socket they come with, and push them into the socket already on the climate control. It's a direct swap. There are 2 bulbs in the climate control. All of the LED bulbs are polarized, so if they don't light up, just flip them around to reverse the polarity.
0 2009/05/27 22:42:56
0 2009/10/04 00:47:22
0 2009/10/04 00:47:22
0 2009/10/04 00:47:22
0 2009/10/04 00:47:22
0 2009/10/04 00:47:22
0 2009/10/04 00:47:22
0 2009/10/04 00:47:49
0 2010/03/14 19:06:24
0 2010/03/14 19:06:24
0 2010/04/28 17:29:30
0 2010/04/28 17:29:30
0 2010/04/28 17:29:30
White LEDs from SuperBrightLEDs.com I used the Cool White 74-xHP3 bulbs (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=CAR&next=50). There are cheaper ones, the "74-x Wedge Base LED bulb", but they have a narrower beam and probably aren't as bright. The 74-xHP3 bulbs are great and worth the extra $2.30 per bulb. Plus, they're shorter than the non-HP's and I doubt a non-HP bulb would fit in the bulb space for the gas/temp gauge. Also, the further the bulb sticks out towards the front of the cluster, the worse the hotspots will be. I have barely any hotspots at all with the 74-xHP3 bulbs. There are also the "74-xHP Wedge Base LED Bulbs", which are a little cheaper than the 74-xHP3 bulbs, and much better than the 74-x bulbs. The xHP3 bulbs are the best though because they have 3 LEDs. The xHP bulbs work pretty good too, just less bright and slightly more hot spots. There are 7 bulbs in the cluster. Sometimes the twist lock sockets don't want to turn well in the cluster, or have a hard time going into the hole (even though they fit fine). In that case, just keep swapping twist sockets and trying the stock sockets with the LED bulb or just keep trying. Just try not to break the plastic of the cluster. For the dash switches, I used 3mm NEOx LED Instrument bulbs. (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=CAR&cart_id=5671260.10797&nex t=50) I just used the regular ones, not the SMD bulbs, because the wider beam isn't really necessary on the switches. I used a red one for the hazard switch (hazard switch only has one bulb), green for the indicators on the cruise and aux switches, and then orange for the defroster indicator. For the illumination of the letters on the switches you can use whatever color you want. So you'll need 2 green, 1 red, 1 orange, and then 3 of whatever color you want the illumination to be. These bulbs are not a direct fit, but they are close. The tabs on the side of the socket are different, but you can use a razor blade to trim the tabs to make it work. Step 3 of this DIY shows where to cut. (http://hondacivicforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70378) For installing the 3mm neo-wedge bulbs in the switches, the best way to twist them is to use a flathead screwdriver that is the perfect size, i.e. the width of the flathead is exactly he width of the philips head slots on the back of the bulb socket. You'll easily break the socket by using an inappropriate screwdriver. All of the LED bulbs are polarized, so if they don't light up, just flip them around to reverse the polarity.
White LEDs from SuperBrightLEDs.com I used the Cool White 74-xHP3 bulbs (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=CAR&next=50). There are cheaper ones, the "74-x Wedge Base LED bulb", but they have a narrower beam and probably aren't as bright. The 74-xHP3 bulbs are great and worth the extra $2.30 per bulb. Plus, they're shorter than the non-HP's and I doubt a non-HP bulb would fit in the bulb space for the gas/temp gauge. Also, the further the bulb sticks out towards the front of the cluster, the worse the hotspots will be. I have barely any hotspots at all with the 74-xHP3 bulbs. There are also the "74-xHP Wedge Base LED Bulbs", which are a little cheaper than the 74-xHP3 bulbs, and much better than the 74-x bulbs. The xHP3 bulbs are the best though because they have 3 LEDs. The xHP bulbs work pretty good too, just less bright and slightly more hot spots. There are 7 bulbs in the cluster. Sometimes the twist lock sockets don't want to turn well in the cluster, or have a hard time going into the hole (even though they fit fine). In that case, just keep swapping twist sockets and trying the stock sockets with the LED bulb or just keep trying. Just try not to break the plastic of the cluster. For the dash switches, I used 3mm NEOx LED Instrument bulbs. (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=CAR&cart_id=5671260.10797&nex t=50) I just used the regular ones, not the SMD bulbs, because the wider beam isn't really necessary on the switches. I used a red one for the hazard switch (hazard switch only has one bulb), green for the indicators on the cruise and aux switches, and then orange for the defroster indicator. For the illumination of the letters on the switches you can use whatever color you want. So you'll need 2 green, 1 red, 1 orange, and then 3 of whatever color you want the illumination to be. These bulbs are not a direct fit, but they are close. The tabs on the side of the socket are different, but you can use a razor blade to trim the tabs to make it work. Step 3 of this DIY shows where to cut. (http://hondacivicforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70378) For installing the 3mm neo-wedge bulbs in the switches, the best way to twist them is to use a flathead screwdriver that is the perfect size, i.e. the width of the flathead is exactly he width of the philips head slots on the back of the bulb socket. You'll easily break the socket by using an inappropriate screwdriver. All of the LED bulbs are polarized, so if they don't light up, just flip them around to reverse the polarity.
0 2010/05/15 22:14:05
White LEDs from SuperBrightLEDs.com I used the Cool White 74-xHP3 bulbs (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=CAR&next=50). There are cheaper ones, the "74-x Wedge Base LED bulb", but they have a narrower beam and probably aren't as bright. The 74-xHP3 bulbs are great and worth the extra $2.30 per bulb. Plus, they're shorter than the non-HP's and I doubt a non-HP bulb would fit in the bulb space for the gas/temp gauge. Also, the further the bulb sticks out towards the front of the cluster, the worse the hotspots will be. I have barely any hotspots at all with the 74-xHP3 bulbs. There are also the "74-xHP Wedge Base LED Bulbs", which are a little cheaper than the 74-xHP3 bulbs, and much better than the 74-x bulbs. The xHP3 bulbs are the best though because they have 3 LEDs. The xHP bulbs work pretty good too, just less bright and slightly more hot spots. There are 7 bulbs in the cluster. Sometimes the twist lock sockets don't want to turn well in the cluster, or have a hard time going into the hole (even though they fit fine). In that case, just keep swapping twist sockets and trying the stock sockets with the LED bulb or just keep trying. Just try not to break the plastic of the cluster. For the dash switches, I used 3mm NEOx LED Instrument bulbs. (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=CAR&cart_id=5671260.10797&nex t=50) I just used the regular ones, not the SMD bulbs, because the wider beam isn't really necessary on the switches. I used a red one for the hazard switch (hazard switch only has one bulb), green for the indicators on the cruise and aux switches, and then orange for the defroster indicator. For the illumination of the letters on the switches you can use whatever color you want. So you'll need 2 green, 1 red, 1 orange, and then 3 of whatever color you want the illumination to be. These bulbs are not a direct fit, but they are close. The tabs on the side of the socket are different, but you can use a razor blade to trim the tabs to make it work. Step 3 of this DIY shows where to cut. (http://hondacivicforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70378) For installing the 3mm neo-wedge bulbs in the switches, the best way to twist them is to use a flathead screwdriver that is the perfect size, i.e. the width of the flathead is exactly he width of the philips head slots on the back of the bulb socket. You'll easily break the socket by using an inappropriate screwdriver. All of the LED bulbs are polarized, so if they don't light up, just flip them around to reverse the polarity.
White LEDs from SuperBrightLEDs.com I used the Cool White 74-xHP3 bulbs (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=CAR&next=50). There are cheaper ones, the "74-x Wedge Base LED bulb", but they have a narrower beam and probably aren't as bright. The 74-xHP3 bulbs are great and worth the extra $2.30 per bulb. Plus, they're shorter than the non-HP's and I doubt a non-HP bulb would fit in the bulb space for the gas/temp gauge. Also, the further the bulb sticks out towards the front of the cluster, the worse the hotspots will be. I have barely any hotspots at all with the 74-xHP3 bulbs. There are also the "74-xHP Wedge Base LED Bulbs", which are a little cheaper than the 74-xHP3 bulbs, and much better than the 74-x bulbs. The xHP3 bulbs are the best though because they have 3 LEDs. The xHP bulbs work pretty good too, just less bright and slightly more hot spots. There are 7 bulbs in the cluster. Sometimes the twist lock sockets don't want to turn well in the cluster, or have a hard time going into the hole (even though they fit fine). In that case, just keep swapping twist sockets and trying the stock sockets with the LED bulb or just keep trying. Just try not to break the plastic of the cluster. For the dash switches, I used 3mm NEOx LED Instrument bulbs. (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=CAR&cart_id=5671260.10797&nex t=50) I just used the regular ones, not the SMD bulbs, because the wider beam isn't really necessary on the switches. I used a red one for the hazard switch (hazard switch only has one bulb), green for the indicators on the cruise and aux switches, and then orange for the defroster indicator. For the illumination of the letters on the switches you can use whatever color you want. So you'll need 2 green, 1 red, 1 orange, and then 3 of whatever color you want the illumination to be. These bulbs are not a direct fit, but they are close. The tabs on the side of the socket are different, but you can use a razor blade to trim the tabs to make it work. Step 3 of this DIY shows where to cut. (http://hondacivicforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70378) For installing the 3mm neo-wedge bulbs in the switches, the best way to twist them is to use a flathead screwdriver that is the perfect size, i.e. the width of the flathead is exactly he width of the philips head slots on the back of the bulb socket. You'll easily break the socket by using an inappropriate screwdriver. All of the LED bulbs are polarized, so if they don't light up, just flip them around to reverse the polarity.
0 2010/05/15 22:14:05
0 2010/06/26 14:05:07
0 2010/11/09 22:26:10
0 2010/11/09 22:26:10