I wondered if anybody makes them or uses them? I'd be particularly interested in some for my EK. They dont have to be anything fancy, just flat steel welded together with holes in it would be perfect. Anybody that could help me out would be greatly appreciated. I mainly need the tranny/passenger side mount.

 

not sure if you also posted this in FI b/c someone just posted the same question today.

Contact dave dturbocivic he can make you a set.

 

Sweet dude, it wasnt me. I just figured it'd be in here so I only searched in welding/fabrication.

 

you would be better off with jimfab lowers and a set of hasport for the 2 upper sides and the rear mount.

i only made mine, because im a cheap ***, with a chop saw and a welder.
as you can see i dont have the 2 lower mounts(that attach to the framerail) which i should have.

 

My SPU car has the same idea but I used a hockey puck between the engine and trans to dampen vibrations, no movement from them whatso ever

 

[QUOTE=Dturbocivic] you would be better off with jimfab lowers and a set of hasport for the 2 upper sides and the rear mount.

i only made mine, because im a cheap ***, with a chop saw and a welder.
as you can see i dont have the 2 lower mounts(that attach to the framerail) which i should have.



[img]
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...mg][/QUOTE]
you might want to seriously consider fabbing some kind of front lower mounts(or use the stock ones).i've seen on a few occasions people break off the mounting point for the upper driver mount from the block when not using the lower mounts.having the mounts solid would only contribute to making it more likely,i'd think-every bit of that shock is being transmitted to the block.you'll either be looking for a new block or doing some pretty creative welding if it were to break off.by the looks of your pics you're more than capable of making some nice stuff-i'd put making some front mounts near the top of my list.
chris

 

um bad idea

try black poly in the stock mounts instead

solid mounts really put a rediculous load on the spot welds and the car will begin to feel soft very quickly

 

use some kind of insert it will also be dificult to lign up the bolts when u have no play at all

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sans &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">um bad idea

try black poly in the stock mounts instead

solid mounts really put a rediculous load on the spot welds and the car will begin to feel soft very quickly</TD></TR></TABLE>

The welds are not spot welds they are tig welded all the way around. Not sure why you think solid mounts are a bad idea.

I would not use them for daily driving but to racing I would take those over the inserts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by underpressure02 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The welds are not spot welds they are tig welded all the way around. Not sure why you think solid mounts are a bad idea.

I would not use them for daily driving but to racing I would take those over the inserts. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I certainly hope they are not just spot welded

I think he's talking about the spot welds on the chassis

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamNextGenChris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> you would be better off with jimfab lowers and a set of hasport for the 2 upper sides and the rear mount.

i only made mine, because im a cheap ***, with a chop saw and a welder.
as you can see i dont have the 2 lower mounts(that attach to the framerail) which i should have.

you might want to seriously consider fabbing some kind of front lower mounts(or use the stock ones).i've seen on a few occasions people break off the mounting point for the upper driver mount from the block when not using the lower mounts.having the mounts solid would only contribute to making it more likely,i'd think-every bit of that shock is being transmitted to the block.you'll either be looking for a new block or doing some pretty creative welding if it were to break off.by the looks of your pics you're more than capable of making some nice stuff-i'd put making some front mounts near the top of my list.
chris</TD></TR></TABLE>


exactly, these 3 monts alone are not enough to absorb "impact"(if you will) and the 2 front lowers should always remain on the car. ive also had to fix kids cars because the timing belt side mount broke the mounting bolts that attach the block mount to the chassis mount(they were also not running the lower mount, like they should have been)

btw. my race car has all 5 mounts on it.

 

I'm starting to **** around with making urethane at my job. I havn't made any honda insert mounts yet. Will keep posted on status of mounts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18c1tcivic90 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm starting to **** around with making urethane at my job. I havn't made any honda insert mounts yet. Will keep posted on status of mounts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

do you have any projects in which you have used the urethane? care to share any pics of a project in progress or a final product?

 

Have you guys ever driven a car with solid mounts? I had an old Datsun race car and at idle it would give you blurred vision. If your Honda engine has balance shafts that would help, but still, I wouldn't do it for the street, if that's what you were thinking.

 

i was driving my street car with the 2 solid side mounts and the place racing rear mount. id haveto say the driving was very tolerable. i dont think it was vibrating as much as the hasport mounts for crx's do.

 

but the question still to be why? Like why do you want a car that is tolerable? why do you want the engine not to move instead giving the full brunt to the drivetrain, axles,hubs,wheel bearings, suspension, body, elctronics, lights.

There is a reason most people make fun of fixed up hondas, when rather that fix there alignment, buy better tires and learn how to drive they would rather make there car tolerable

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sans &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but the question still to be why? </TD></TR></TABLE>
i have to agree.i just have inserts in the front lower and rear stock mounts on my car.around 300WHP on sticky tires,and not one bit of detectable movement.slightly more vibration at idle,but otherwise not very noticable.i'm very pleased.
Chris

 

i personally dont like the side mounts... iv made solid mounts before without the side mounts but i added in another mount to the tranny... where the stock mount goes on the front via the 3 holes... i made a plate with 2 brackets on it... from there i put a tube with lh and rh threads on it to a front traction bar (which btw then has to be strong enough to take the stress as well) i just dont like those heavy *** stock mounts... not to mention 50% of cars i see have been stripped at one point of another (the 2 holes on the lower chassis)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sans &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but the question still to be why? Like why do you want a car that is tolerable? why do you want the engine not to move instead giving the full brunt to the drivetrain, axles,hubs,wheel bearings, suspension, body, elctronics, lights.

There is a reason most people make fun of fixed up hondas, when rather that fix there alignment, buy better tires and learn how to drive they would rather make there car tolerable </TD></TR></TABLE>

you feeling ok today? im not sure how to take this statement? good or bad? agree or disagree?

 

ive machined nylon bushings in an attempt to offer some give and hopefully not elongate chassis boltholes or anything. the car isnt finished so i dont know how bad they will be, but with only two side mounts i cant rock the engine very much at all.

hasport mounts vibrated like crazy with an unsprung ceramic clutch. i expect the same of these.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike_belben@yahoo.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ive machined nylon bushings in an attempt to offer some give and hopefully not elongate chassis boltholes or anything. the car isnt finished so i dont know how bad they will be, but with only two side mounts i cant rock the engine very much at all.

hasport mounts vibrated like crazy with an unsprung ceramic clutch. i expect the same of these. </TD></TR></TABLE>
you are planning on adding a rear mount of some kind-right?the two side mounts aren't intended to absorb torque movements.also,no matter how badass your side mounts ar,they won't stop your block from breaking if you don't use the lower mounts too.
Chris

 

Actually, its been proven that solid motor mounts virtually eliminate wheel hop. Although thats is not why I need them, it will be helpful when my car can make some decent power. As to the welds taking all of the vibration, that is true somewhat, but in all actuality it just forces the vibration to be absorbed by the suspension movement. I can imagine that solid motor mount would actually increase chassis rigidity (handling) although I have no real proof to back it up. (I would think it would make the motor and mount act like a giant strut bar in the front end.)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Unsivil_audio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually, its been proven that solid motor mounts virtually eliminate wheel hop. .)</TD></TR></TABLE>
it's been proven that simple motor mount inserts eliminate wheel hop.traction bars help further,but that's a whole 'nother topic.
my concern wouldn't be so much the welds taking the impact,but the mounting points on the motor.if you absolutely have to do solid mounts,i say do it for ALL the mounts.
Chris

 

I was thinking about doing this for my car(very little street mind you). But my plan was to use solid stock to begin with and machine it down to make a completely solid mount. I really dont know how this would hold up. Wonder if it would tear the mounting point away from the chassis, unless I was to reinforce these points. Any input on this idea?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamNextGenChris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you are planning on adding a rear mount of some kind-right?the two side mounts aren't intended to absorb torque movements.also,no matter how badass your side mounts ar,they won't stop your block from breaking if you don't use the lower mounts too.
Chris</TD></TR></TABLE>

i made a full set