I just wanted to ask if you guys think it would be possible to make the weld in S&W into a bolt in?I know it can be done but I dont really want to go crazy doing it but on the other hand I dont really like the fit of the Autopower.I just wanted to ask your opinions and suggestions on how to go about this?The plates are easy but the part that I would like some help with is the rear bars.I figured using a slug like a smaller pipe on the inside of the rear bars thatwould be permanently welded on one side and that would allow the other end of the rear bar to slide over it and be bolted together.I also am sort of lost when it comes to tyhe rulebooks on what is legal or not so any help would be appreciated.The cage is going in a 2000 civic coupe with sunroof. Thanks Antonio

 

i have the roll bar but its not in my car yet, after looking at it, it could be colted in, but that would be alot of work to fab up some brackets. its also prenotched, i would just weld it in, but anything can be done if you got the time and patience for it

this is just my opinion as im not a fab./welder

 

If you don't like the fit of an autopower, then you probably won't be any happier with s&w. Most of the ones I've seen don't fit that well.

 

Ohh ok I thought the S&W was made with a little extra length on the ends so you had a little room to play with?dohcdelsol you wouldnt happen to have any pics of the S&W would you?

 

It says notched where available.
I would like to see the pics also of the cage....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by siblues &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ohh ok I thought the S&W was made with a little extra length on the ends so you had a little room to play with?dohcdelsol you wouldnt happen to have any pics of the S&W would you?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont have my computer as i use the one at school, but i should be getting my computer back within the next few days and ill post up some pics then

 

sounds good thanks
anyone else have pics or suggestions?

 

i was just lookng at a s&w on safedrive.com. says that there is extra material to be trimmed for a better fit... I think you should be able to cut it up and weld some plates in there to make it a bolt in you wanted

 

Can I ask why you want bolt-in?
Is it because you want to make it DIY?

 

I just like the bolt in better for my use.I only plan on dragging my car occasionaly on the weekends and if I dont like the rollbar and take it out for another one I figured that it would be easier to get it back to original with just the few holes in the floor.

 

Are you running 11.50?
If you're not sure, don't put one period.
Just do some stiffening, leave it until it's drag-only or fast enough to need it.

 

I have an S&W and am very happy with the outcome. My only complaint is that the hoop is a touch too low. That could have been cut by the chassis shop though. Other than that...I love it. I think it really depends on who installs the cage as far as fit and finish are concerned.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hondatec38 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have an S&W and am very happy with the outcome. My only complaint is that the hoop is a touch too low. That could have been cut by the chassis shop though. Other than that...I love it. I think it really depends on who installs the cage as far as fit and finish are concerned.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have heard the low hoop problem with several s&w installs...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ExVtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have heard the low hoop problem with several s&w installs...</TD></TR></TABLE>

my hoop came with about 4 inches to much on the bottom and i trimmed to fit and it looks great, this is the third one i did now and ive had the same thing everytime. not sure why so many people say S&W suck, poor installs??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d15nonvtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

my hoop came with about 4 inches to much on the bottom and i trimmed to fit and it looks great, this is the third one i did now and ive had the same thing everytime. not sure why so many people say S&W suck, poor installs??</TD></TR></TABLE>


Thats what I think. It all depends on the the installer. I do know this: Kressman Race Cars builds rail cars and Jr. dragster chassis' usually. So when I asked about doing an 8-point he kinda just laughed a little and said no problem at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 9bells &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you running 11.50?
If you're not sure, don't put one period.
Just do some stiffening, leave it until it's drag-only or fast enough to need it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I havent ran that yet but I think I have the power to do so.I am currently doing some upgrades to the suspension to get the power to the ground and I am also thinking ahead so I dont come on here at the last minute trying to get a quick answer.Does anyone have pics?That would really help Thanks

 

Well, the plates that come with weld-in are not spec for bolt-in.
They are 3 times as thick. And you need two for each.
The added weight of this type of roll protection is quite a bit.
The rules are very specific on the design of the bolt-in to meet nhra spec.
Just look through the rulebook, and follow it.
It seems like alot of work. Good luck.

 

And here is why I originally got the cage. It's N/A now but still looks bad ***.

 

^ Very nice work Hondatec That isnt a s&w is it and did you do that yourself?

 

That is in fact an S&W. I however cannot take credit for the beautiful installation of this masterpiece. Kressman Race Cars in West Chester, PA did the install. The X-Brace is optional and he did the small bends on the ends for stability and easier weld quality. That was done on the door bars as well. My hoop was preloaded (bent outwards slightly to the b-pillars) before welding to the floor and the harness bar went in after that. This guy is a chassis genius.

 

Very nice install. Worth every penny.

 

There was a guy in here named JoestypeS that was making a very nice rollbar.I spoke to him about a year and a half ago in regards to making me one but I lost touch of him.His design and work was excellent.His shop name was Truerace I believe.Lets keep this thread going and see if we can get some more pics

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hondatec38 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That is in fact an S&W. I however cannot take credit for the beautiful installation of this masterpiece. Kressman Race Cars in West Chester, PA did the install. The X-Brace is optional and he did the small bends on the ends for stability and easier weld quality. That was done on the door bars as well. My hoop was preloaded (bent outwards slightly to the b-pillars) before welding to the floor and the harness bar went in after that. This guy is a chassis genius.</TD></TR></TABLE>

whats the purpose behind pre-loading the bars before welding?

 

To be perfectly honest...I have no idea. He just told me thats what he did. Im sure there is a good reason though.

 

Just call s&w. they have everything on CAD and can pull up whatever drawing to get the dimensions of the pipes you have and make you what you need accordingly.