Merge Collector Fabrication 101
We built an arbor setup for a cold saw blade mounted on our cnc mill that's cuts our collectors. There was discernible blade deflection in the parts it made versus cutting with a solid carbide end mill. So while cold saw or dry cut blades may be an improvement over hot saw bladed they are not as great as one would think.
Wow, mine has no deflection that I'm aware of. Cuts are square and straight.
Even the machinist was amazed when he broke out the "machinist" square when he was over once. He said the finish even looked like a mill. No burr until they need sharpening.
Mine is not a cold saw, not sure if there is much difference in blade strength though.
I'm not claiming .001" accuracy, but all I know is that I don't need the sander to flatten the tubes like I used to with the band saw. The autogenous welds come out pretty nice now.
Even the machinist was amazed when he broke out the "machinist" square when he was over once. He said the finish even looked like a mill. No burr until they need sharpening.
Mine is not a cold saw, not sure if there is much difference in blade strength though.
I'm not claiming .001" accuracy, but all I know is that I don't need the sander to flatten the tubes like I used to with the band saw. The autogenous welds come out pretty nice now.
We've seen as much as 2-3 thou off per part with the cold saw blades. Enough to make them need a touch up or two on the sander. It could be a result of vibration due to the minimal work holding employed with this methodology or even possibly the tube itself deflecting. If you are supporting the tube against the machine platten or something similiar like in a typical hot saw application, maybe thats enough to reduce the forces on the tubing enough to get a better cut.
For parallel merge collectors like the ones we build, that's huge. When you build splayed collectors it doesn't mean crap, but when the legs have to be exactly in the right spot, or you can't expand them correctly - 0.002-0.003 per side * 4 parts is enough to make a merge collector go from 1-1/4 hours cut & fab time to 2. As soon as you touch it to a sander - they become a headache. When you are building 10-20 collectors a day, 2-4 of which are 4-1s, that's a big difference in time.
i have made a collector with a rigid cold cut saw and it was perfect.... all matched up perfect when put together.... anyone know the angles the cut a 6-1 merge collector??
in for more info on how people cut 6-1 collectors as well...for non twin-scroll apps.
if you cut equal parts of 60 degrees it would be circular and need signifigant work.
if you cut equal parts of 60 degrees it would be circular and need signifigant work.
Wow, mine has no deflection that I'm aware of. Cuts are square and straight.
Even the machinist was amazed when he broke out the "machinist" square when he was over once. He said the finish even looked like a mill. No burr until they need sharpening.
Mine is not a cold saw, not sure if there is much difference in blade strength though.
I'm not claiming .001" accuracy, but all I know is that I don't need the sander to flatten the tubes like I used to with the band saw. The autogenous welds come out pretty nice now.
Even the machinist was amazed when he broke out the "machinist" square when he was over once. He said the finish even looked like a mill. No burr until they need sharpening.
Mine is not a cold saw, not sure if there is much difference in blade strength though.
I'm not claiming .001" accuracy, but all I know is that I don't need the sander to flatten the tubes like I used to with the band saw. The autogenous welds come out pretty nice now.
Bells could you please post some picture of your Jig Setup?
It will help me alot to see someones who knows what he's doing!
Thanks,
B
6-1's are a 60 degree rotation in each direction from the 0 plane. With splayed collectors the 0 plane is wherever you reference your first cut from. With parallel collectors, the 0 plane is referenced where the center line of tube rotation and the cutter are perpendicular.
6-1's are a 60 degree rotation in each direction from the 0 plane. With splayed collectors the 0 plane is wherever you reference your first cut from. With parallel collectors, the 0 plane is referenced where the center line of tube rotation and the cutter are perpendicular.
You mean make a cut and rotate once to 60 degrees total, right?
when you say "in each direction" i read that as zero it out and do 60 degrees clockwise, rotate back to zero and then go 60 degrees counterclockwise.
Thanks!
Also, the lenthwise angle is 15 degrees from centerline.
We set 0 based on type of collector. Index to 60 deg. Cut. Index back to 0. Verify. Index to -60 deg. Cut. Rinse and repeat. Your length wise angle does not effect the indexing of the cut, it only effects the resultant splayed angle of the collector.
Sorry, I'm not trying to say that you are wrong in any way or something, but as I've found out, lenght wise angle does make differnece in degrees required for the second cut, at least that's what I've found out with 4-1 merge collecotors... at least with my chopsaw and my jig setup... so I think it should make difference in 6-1 collectors too... on the other hand, maybe my jig setups is really awkward...
i made a 6-1 merge collector out of pvc at 15 degrees and 60+/- degree rotation and when put together it wasn't right.... i am buying more pipe and see if 63 or 65 will work



I've heard that it performs flawlessly, unfortunately one 12" here in Latvia costs 140$