I don't know if this has been covered yet, i used search but didn't find anything.

Well, after installing my ITB setup, the car doesn't brake. It has probably something to do with a brake MC and vacuum. I made vacuum canister. If i connect all 4 runners to it and just brake MC, or if i connect the brake MC to just one runner, brakes doesn't work. It just doesn't brake. So, when there are all 4 runners connected, is it possible that there is not enough vacuum? Well, i have no clue what to do

 

how are you connecting the thing? Before or after the throttle plates?

 

Well I'm running my brakebooster from one vacuum source, from one runner. No problems what so ever. Take the vacuum from the manifold, not the TB, chances are that you're running it before the throttle plate, which means you have no vacuum on the brakebooster.
The brakes do work, its just that you have to press the pedal down alot more, because you have no vacuum assist.

 

I have them connected on CBR position, right after the throttle plates. Everything work OK, no ECU issue, just fuel mixture is way to rich (engine smokes blak, sparkplugs are black). I will drill some holes right before head flange and check for any differences. Thanks guys for a hint!

 

You have no vacuum because your engine is running way too rich. Fix that problem first.

 

How to fix this problem without tuning the ECU?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You have no vacuum because your engine is running way too rich.</TD></TR></TABLE>
An engine running way too rich doesnt have anything to do with vacuum. If the engine didnt have any vacuum, it wouldnt run.
Your engine is MAP sensored right? I'm thinking your hose running is causing an intake vacuum leak, due to something, check the connections. Maybe because you got the canister hooked up and its sucking air through there. I'd ditch that whole setup and just run one line from the MANIFOLD to the brake booster. Maybe make a separate system for the map, or just set it up to run with a TPS sensor.
In either case, you probably wont get the richiness out without a prper setup.

 

are the blades able to be synced? i had a bad sync on my set asnd runns so rich it idles and drives, once leaned out revved to all hell. turned out that the blades were slightly open. this would cause no vacuum and also if its running really rich the fuel will be killing the engine enough to idle like mine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by meanEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are the blades able to be synced? i had a bad sync on my set asnd runns so rich it idles and drives, once leaned out revved to all hell. turned out that the blades were slightly open. this would cause no vacuum and also if its running really rich the fuel will be killing the engine enough to idle like mine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, the blades weren't synced. Actually 2 blades (on one shaft) were just a bit more open than the other two. there was enough vacuum (at least i think so), up to -0.6 bar (-8,7psi).

Today i will set them again to see if everything works like i t should. Brake MC will be connected on just one runner.

Yesterday i made this, to get them synced:

http://www2.arnes.si/~mjereb2/mini-P8250237.JPG

 

Good luck with it.

 

Has anyone any idea how much vacuum should be applied to MAP sensor (Its a D16A9 - DOHC ZC engine)?
Well, the engine runs way too rich, it 'backfires' through the exhaust. If i idle it too long, i have to pull out the spark plugs and dry them to get sparks and all 4 cylinders back to work
How can i lean it a bit? I have to drive 80miles to my engine tuner to set the ECU right. This engine doesn't use O2 sensor. I will try PM6 ECU with O2 sensor, if it runs better.

Here you have it:
http://www2.arnes.si/~mjereb2/P8270240.MOV.avi

 

do you have a TPS hooked up?

 

Now everything runs fine!
The problem was in TPS wires, i forgot to change them Actually i tought the TPS worked, no led blink on ECU, but i was wrong.
Brake MC, connected only to runner #1 works fine. Thanks guys
Now i have to install Crespo Stage 5 camshafts

 

i had issues with my brakes but it turned out to be a vac leak in cyl 2 and 3 .

you really should have a cannister for your brakes to work good ..alos make sure the one way valve in the brake vac line is in good shape by blowwing on it both ways ..it should only let air in one way .

and yes runnign rich will cause the enigne to not run so well and when an engine isnt running well its harder to creat vac

timming plays a big role in this...and if its runnign super rich (probly low vac related ) it will be running timming dependant on where the ecu sees where the MAP is

(at -26hg the timming should be at base ..16.5ish ..your probly idleing around -10hg or more if your lucky , at -10 timming will be completly different )

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brake MC, connected only to runner #1 works fine. Thanks guys</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup told ya so

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you really should have a cannister for your brakes to work good</TD></TR></TABLE>
Pfft, one line is enough.. it is a closed container, doesnt take very long for the vacuum to be sucked in there. What the problem with a vacuum canister is that the piston doing the work, sucks also from the other runners of the manifold, that will actually decrease total vacuum amount, unless you have one way valves on all of the ports in the vacuum canister.





Modified by Flashmn at 9:04 AM 8/27/2005