thanks for the info, what torch angle are you using for the filler to drop in like that?

 

probably between 40-60 degrees. anything less and you'll crash the rod right into the electrode and its a quick way to **** you off . It depends on what obstacles are in the way if its an easy weld less, because the more gas coverage the better, but also when you drop the rod in its always dropped alot more in for me then it would be for dipping it so it needs alot less time to cool and it ends up staying a fairly consistent color.

Usually my electrode is 1/8th if that away from the weld and theres barely enough room to fit the rod in there.

 

yeah I didnt read my post before posting. sorry for it not making any sense. No penetration on the weld you can see so I figured that none of the welds had penetration. Just watch the puddle next time you weld and you will see what I am talking about.

 

so would these weld not hold up on anything?

 

Those welds would be fine for boost piping, and you can make even smaller beads without any problems. When I need to do boost pipes, I fusion weld them and make it as tiny as possible, the customers love it, and it holds up fine. Not everything needs to be welded like it's going on a military submarine, sometimes it's OKAY to make a weld with esthetics being #1 priority.

 

I use the same technique as FredC and the nickname for it is "ball dropping" something I learned later on in the years while welding professionally. It makes the appearance on stainless look great and helps control the amount of heat by balling up your wire and letting it drop into your weld pool and cools down faster than dabbing it. Also feeding more wire like Agtronic does the same as technique above and both can do it all in one pass. I think the key here is consistency and feeling comfortable welding around a contour like that.

Oh yea, another thing I love and I do not know why other people think is a crutch is using the pulsing option. Look into that

 

I use the same technique as FredC and the nickname for it is "ball dropping" something I learned later on in the years while welding professionally. It makes the appearance on stainless look great and helps control the amount of heat by balling up your wire and letting it drop into your weld pool and cools down faster than dabbing it. Also feeding more wire like Agtronic does the same as technique above and both can do it all in one pass. I think the key here is consistency and feeling comfortable welding around a contour like that.

Oh yea, another thing I love and I do not know why other people think is a crutch is using the pulsing option. Look into that

 

Exactly, depends on the application. For intake piping, ok, for exhaust manifold, not ok, lol.

 

I dont think I wold use welds with zero penetration for anything.

 

yeah, zero penetration? isn't that how the pipe shows up in the box? just kidding.

 

It just seems like your care more so about how to learn the dime effect, rather then learning the basics first. The dime effect willl come down the line, once you understand things a little bit more. I'd just say keep practicing the basics.

 

This is a bit confusing to me. I don't understand how you "think" you can welds AL and a T joint perfect, yet can't put a bead on a pipe?

it all goes hand and hand. If your in here asking for torch angle you can't weld a perfect t joint.

sense torch angle like mentioned earlier is dependent on what weld your doing at the time. but as a general rule you keep the torch angle the same from flate plate to pipe, you just are constantly adjusting it on pipe.

this is stuff you pick up from practice. and most of your questions could be answered by going on millers website or searching google.

also just from looking at your welds in your threads, you need to adjust your additude towards your welds just as must as your technique. this keeps you from getting all lazy and thinking your the **** because you can weld...

anyway,

sch 10 SS 304 pipe
welder set at 80 amps ( i use about 80-90% of that depending)
1/16" 308 rod
3/32" red tung.
i do 2 passes, 1 root with no filler, and 1 cap pass with filler.

if your going to run a root without filler, run it hot or it does you no good to do it.

 

That's how many welders think when they come out welding school. But not everything is high pressure piping. You have to learn to balance esthetics with weld strength when you're doing cars for people who like to show them. In a racing application, of course you will always try to make the strongest weld possible, but not always so for hot rods and show cars.

Just my $0.02 ...

 

great info, thanks

well said. so my weld above is okay for ic piping then? thanks guys

 

he's saying it's fine for IC piping, but I wouldn't set my goal as creating a weld that doesn't penetrate the inside of the pipe.
but at the same time, on larger diameter and longer piping, it's going to take a lot of gas to purge the inside, and that can get expensive.

 

exactly thanks guys

 

Well if you think about, if you have 50% penetration, and vibration moving through a pipe, that joint with 50% penetration is half way cracked already. Thats about as simple as i can put it. Now if you throw heat, from a primary into the mix, well you can do the math

 

the wouldnt pass where I work, I work in the food industry and they have to have complete penetration to keep the pipe from haveing a spot for dirt. But they would hold for some other applications without a problem.

 

the weld wouldnt pass an xray and wouldnt fill the entire gap using that method. You dip to fill the puddle into the gap.

Atleast that is what we learned at hobart.

 

Oh yes it will pass believe me. I weld aircraft components as a professional welder and all my parts go through xray and FPI before going to the customer. What doesn't pass is contamination and the amount of porosity which determined on the length of the weld measured in sections, and whatever tolerances you have on undercut/underfill weld width, height, and etc... depending on what specification your customer provides.

We're not welding aircraft/food industry parts here. Also I doubt we want to get technical on what specifications we're supposed to weld race car parts off. All we're looking for is to make sure is the welder has a good understanding of how to pull off a good weld with more of a visual quality then what we look for industry wise.

Blah!

 

HAHA, i have had my welds x-rayed and Im certified to weld pretty much anything in 6g and i still use this technique.

I hate to be cocky, but thats my average day at welding, I rarely remember to take pics because I'm either busy working or busy getting the f out to go home. I've looked at alot of the welds on here and the only person i'd say could weld stainless better then myself is Engloid. I'm sure there are some people on here that can weld great, but im judging from the pics i've seen