I am making a dp for a tubular mani. I used 3inch with 4.5 inch radius bend. When i cut it in half it seems like the downpipe is to far to the left. But when i cut it shorter the diameter is too big now. The smallest radius i can find is 4 inch and i dont think it would make a diff. How do you guys do it? thanks

 

I don't quiten understand your question, but if the pic explains it, I see the problem.

If you lay a ruler across the cut end, it will NOT cross the center of the elbow's radius. Therefore, the circumference at the eut edge will be larger than it should if the cut line went through the center of the radius. In other words, you don't have a circle at the end of your cut, you have an oval.

You MAY be able to put the end in a vise OR...
You will have to rig this in a way that won't look very well, or use another elbow....going with a smaller radius (if you have to keep the downpipe that close to the turbo), or another elbow that's the same, but the downpipe won't be so close to the turbo.

This is sometimes why you see people take the larger pipe sizes and put a lot of little curves in it...making an elbow. It's because they can make it turn sharper.

 

thanks engloid. its hard for me to explain but u can tell from the pics. I wonder if its ok to leave the dp that far away from turbo like in the 2nd pic.


Modified by anthonycn at 9:40 PM 12/17/2004

 

You'll want to pinch the thing down so that it opens up on the sides and closes up on the top and bottom a bit. You don't want to have to fill any more gap than you have to, cause it will likely end up lumpy inside if you have to fill gaps.

 

you can get a ss donut. 3" with a 3" radius.

 

when i first read that i thought it said you can get an *** doughnut. thats kinda funny. are you using 90 degree bends or U bends? i dont remember the radius of the vibrant U bends i just recently got..but i was def. able to make a sharper turn off the turbo. the vibrant materials rule on pricing, and you get a U bend, a 45 bend, and a bunch of straight all in one peice. check them out! i think engloid hit the nail on the head with the cut though

 

 

whoa.. never seen those before. manufacturer?

 

You can get them from RoadRaceEngineering. They're $55 for the 3" stainless, but you can make 4 dp's with one. Saves a lot of time and headaches.

 

Try pie cuts.. dont have time to explain right now, but ill be back to help out more...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DA9-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can get them from RoadRaceEngineering. They're $55 for the 3" stainless, but you can make 4 dp's with one. Saves a lot of time and headaches.

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actually thoes are for steel ones .. mild steel not stainless .. almost **** my pants if they were 55 for 3"donuts ... and chassisshop.com has em cheaper .. 50$ for the same one as RRE .. and for stainless steel .. RRE has em for 110 . chassis shop 101

not a hole lot of price diff .. just chassis shops the lowest ive seen ..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by untitled &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try pie cuts.. dont have time to explain right now, but ill be back to help out more...</TD></TR></TABLE>

like this to form the tighter radius needed .. (using pic form other thread)

 

thanks for the links, downloaded chassis shops awesome catalog.

while the pie cutting looks pretty neat, its probably not very economical. thats a LOT of filler, argon, electricity and time. i know my electric meter spins as soon as the arc flashes.

 

thanks alot guys. im going to order the donut from chassis shop