Not sure if this would be the correct forum but I figured most of you guys have dealt with doing this at one point. My question is where could I find one of these for a decent price. Haven't had any luck looking. Thank you in advance

 

I think a lot of people in the engine bay shaving thread here have had luck with the tools from Jegs or Summit and a few have used this:


http://www.anplumbing.com/shop...Tools
(near the bottom of the page)

 

Thank you very much. I just grabbed the one from jegs. It was a lot cheaper and I doubt I will ever use it again.

 

Jegs and Summit suck, thats what I "heard". I have no personal experience with them.

I use the Rigid and it works great. Look on the first page of the shave tuck tread for info posted.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slappy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Jegs and Summit suck,</TD></TR></TABLE>

You are joking, right?

 

its looks like the same style kit most places sell. cant be too bad

 

I think the problem isn't the design, but what material the forms are made out of. The first few crimps work well, but gradually the forms change shape and you don't get the correct angles causing potential leaks.

 

I found a nice one from a local airplane supply shop. They specialize in used, new and restoration customers. it was about $75 and does about 5 sizes.

 

I'm still on the fence if the actual AN tool is better then just a standard double bubble flare tool. I would think since the tube nuts tightened onto the union would be forcing the surfaces to mate, you would think that the small difference in degrees wouldn't matter right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slappy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Jegs and Summit suck, thats what I "heard". I have no personal experience with them.

I use the Rigid and it works great. Look on the first page of the shave tuck tread for info posted.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea the jegs and summit style flaring tools dont work very well, If you only have a couple of flares to do you might get away with it but doing multiple flares is such a pain because the tubing tends to slip off espicially if you are doing Stainless Stell tubing.

And as for the Ridgid tool ($114 shipped), I had purchased it even though the guys at anplumbing in hawthorne told me it wouldnt work on their stainless stell tubing due to the flaring tool having a clutch in it. Its a great tool and seems very user friendly since it has a nice handle but it didnt work on the stainless stell tubing i had purchased at anplumbing.

I ended up buying the Parker Flaring tool from anplumbing and it has to be the best flaring tool. It is kind of pricey at $175 but it gets the job done in a breeze. All it takes is a couple of hits from the hammer and you got a pefect flare.

And as for doing double flares on AN style fittings, Yea people do it and it may work but its very prone to leaking. I dont think risking a leak on brake lines or fuel lines is worth.

Its just like any other tool you purchase, people spend big money on $$$ on snap-on and quality tools because they what the assurance of if it getting the job done every time.

parker flaring tool for the win

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ComeOnKip &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm still on the fence if the actual AN tool is better then just a standard double bubble flare tool. I would think since the tube nuts tightened onto the union would be forcing the surfaces to mate, you would think that the small difference in degrees wouldn't matter right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You would think... but do you want to risk your life on "you'd think" information? I know of a local racer who had a fitting leak, which caused a fire and subsequent conflagration that consumed his car and a good piece of his face.

 

true, i just sell a **** load of the nuts and sleeves, and none of my customers use an AN flare. Might be worth looking into for my own personal use. Thanks!

 

Well ill let you guys know how it works out. I plan on doing most of the work this weekend.

 

i was going to start a new thread but i think its best to add my Q here since its related.

who sells a good tubing bender?... ive used the ones sold at local parts stores but they distort the shape of the tube.

i remember watching an episode American Hotrod where they were doing a fuel/nitrous hard-line system for a corvette and the guy was using a tubing bender that had 2 wheels.. one fixed on the inside and another that rotated around the outside of the tube.... anyone else see that episode?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ROTARY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was going to start a new thread but i think its best to add my Q here since its related.

who sells a good tubing bender?... ive used the ones sold at local parts stores but they distort the shape of the tube.

i remember watching an episode American Hotrod where they were doing a fuel/nitrous hard-line system for a corvette and the guy was using a tubing bender that had 2 wheels.. one fixed on the inside and another that rotated around the outside of the tube.... anyone else see that episode? </TD></TR></TABLE>

ridgid sells the tube bender you are talking about