hey i was planing on shaving my engine bay and i was just wondering what kind and type of welder poeple were using when doing this process thanks

 

im just using a Lincoln 100HD paid $100 for it at a garage sale. gets the job done.

 

yep...cheap *** MIG welder is just fine. Also, get yourself a little chunk of thick copper. You can hold it behind the hole when you weld the hole shut and it'll give the backside a much less haggared appearance. It also simply makes filling the holes just a little easier.

 

i used a crappy harbor freight wire flux core welder.


did the job just perfect


Shot with Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XT at 2007-07-19

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM EJ1 95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i used a crappy harbor freight wire flux core welder.


did the job just perfect


Shot with Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XT at 2007-07-19</TD></TR></TABLE>

wow that look so clean i guess i go to harbor frieght and get me one thanks for any input and help you guys

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jays01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

wow that look so clean i guess i go to harbor frieght and get me one thanks for any input and help you guys</TD></TR></TABLE>

don't buy it right now, wait until the afte thanks giving day sale, i bought mine last year for $78 bucks.

and don't by a spool, i thought it didnt have one but it does, ( it doesnt say ANYTHING) about it on the box tho.

 

What size wire comes with it?

I know that when I bought my Lincoln it came with .035 flux core. I was blowing holes through my firewall left right and center with the limited controls on the 140. So I went out and bought some .030 flux core and tips. I have had no problems with it ever since.

I would much rather be using my gas setup & .025 MIG wire but I'm too lazy to go out and get a 3year contract for a bottle and get it filled...lol


Modified by GhostAccord at 9:34 AM 10/16/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RC000E &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yep...cheap *** MIG welder is just fine. Also, get yourself a little chunk of thick copper. You can hold it behind the hole when you weld the hole shut and it'll give the backside a much less haggared appearance. It also simply makes filling the holes just a little easier.</TD></TR></TABLE>

best advice i've seen on here in a while.

 

Just a few questions about the chunk of Copper trick.

How thick of a chunk are we talking here? 1/2" 1/4"??

I didn't find very many of my smaller holes that I had access to the backside or enough flat space to get much of anything flush never mind a chunk.

I would have had some room on some of the firewall holes but how do you attach it to the other side? Would you have somone else on the opposite side holding it?


Modified by GhostAccord at 11:28 AM 10/16/2008

 

I've got an end cut from a 3/4 bar of copper I grabbed from work, maybe 3 inches long or so. It's overkill but it works great. It's big enough that you can fill a hole while you just hold it with your other hand. I've also just clamped it in place but thats not an option on the firewall. I guess you'll need a helper for that. I would think 1/4 would work fine.

 

i use a pretty heavy duty magnet instead of a copper chunk

 

The copper works great.. they make vice grips that have a copper pad on one side for this exact reason.


ohh

and do not try a penny lmao

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by weiRtech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

best advice i've seen on here in a while.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why thank ya buddy!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fav6052 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i use a pretty heavy duty magnet instead of a copper chunk </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, the issue with using the copper is also to act as a heatsink. When the material gets really thin in areas of the rad support, the copper will really draw alot of the heat away and allow it to weld easier because it won't blow out.

I never realized how much a heatsink can work until I was welding razorblades a couple years back because of a thread that was on here. Everyone was trying to weld them, and RMF had perty ones. We talked via PM a bit, and I ended up using little chunks of aluminum to draw heat out of the razor blades. Laid a nice bead at 5 amps right down the middle of the two

 

I used a 1/2" copper pipe crushed with a hammer and bent it into a 45° spoon. It worked great. It even worked on filling 1/2" circles. Thank you very much for the tip.....

Cheers
GhostAccord

 

I've never heard of shaving an engine bay. What does this mean?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Engloid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've never heard of shaving an engine bay. What does this mean?</TD></TR></TABLE>

closing all the little holes, usually getting rid of PS, AC and stuff.

Basically making everything smooth.

Heres a good example, see how smooth everything looks:



eh, the owner of the car is on H-T forgot his name though

 

a chunk of aluminum also works great for filling in holes, i use that trick every time i shave holes on a body like the wing or sidemoldings

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EARLdaSQUIRREL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a chunk of aluminum also works great for filling in holes, i use that trick every time i shave holes on a body like the wing or sidemoldings </TD></TR></TABLE>

i got a piece of sheet lying around ill try that