Deck Closing?
I am building a motor that uses an open deck (aluminum block) unfortunately it's not a Honda or other common brand, so while you can sleeve them, it's huge dollars.
So my thought was to essentially have a block guard made from like 1/2" aluminum that fits in the jackets (sits say 1/2" below the deck) and literally weld the thing in.
My main question is does anyone know if this can be done without totally screwing the block up?
I have a dynasty 200 that i could run with some helium, but I'd probably try to rent a bigger machine.
Assuming you went slow could you do it without having to replace the liners?
Obviously I would do this before I have it bored- but I am wondering if the heat would screw up the liners?
I guess my though is if the liners have to be replaced afterwards it might be sorta pointless since i might as well just have thocker liners put in.
Any thoughts? Have I lost my mind?
You all know what blocks look like, lol but here's some pic content just for the hell of it:

So my thought was to essentially have a block guard made from like 1/2" aluminum that fits in the jackets (sits say 1/2" below the deck) and literally weld the thing in.
My main question is does anyone know if this can be done without totally screwing the block up?
I have a dynasty 200 that i could run with some helium, but I'd probably try to rent a bigger machine.
Assuming you went slow could you do it without having to replace the liners?
Obviously I would do this before I have it bored- but I am wondering if the heat would screw up the liners?
I guess my though is if the liners have to be replaced afterwards it might be sorta pointless since i might as well just have thocker liners put in.
Any thoughts? Have I lost my mind?
You all know what blocks look like, lol but here's some pic content just for the hell of it:

Devcon works decently, and alot of honda guys have used it in the past (including me). Doing it with a solid piece like you were talking about, or with the devcon SHOULD give you similar results either way, but I wouldn't know either way if welding a solid piece in would distort everything too much or not. Obviously, re-sleeving would be the way to go, since the strength and integrity of the sleeves themselves will still be the same, they will just have a bit more support at the open top and reduce flex a bit (unless you are hard-blocking the engine and running methanol
, which would be a full drag setup). How much power are you looking at putting through this? Also, what engine is that, just out of curiosity
, which would be a full drag setup). How much power are you looking at putting through this? Also, what engine is that, just out of curiosity
Thanks guys - yeah I could go the devcon route. And I suppose a resleeve would still be cheaper than going darton if I did weld it.
The motor is from a 1999 Volvo S80 T6 - 2.8L, 24v turbo. Swapped into my RWD Volvo 240.
It has a T04R on it right now, so the aim will be 650-700whp with forged H beams and forged wiseco's. Figure 20psi-25psi. If it does that ok, then I'll go to a bigger turbo and aim for 4 digits.
Manifold/turbo:


Car:

The motor is from a 1999 Volvo S80 T6 - 2.8L, 24v turbo. Swapped into my RWD Volvo 240.
It has a T04R on it right now, so the aim will be 650-700whp with forged H beams and forged wiseco's. Figure 20psi-25psi. If it does that ok, then I'll go to a bigger turbo and aim for 4 digits.
Manifold/turbo:


Car:

whoops first pic should have been this one:

Also the car is on megasquirt standalone ems.
Was hoping to do ~350whpo and run 12's this year but some tuning issues appear tyo have resulted in a melty piston, so my rebuild might be starting early.

Also the car is on megasquirt standalone ems.
Was hoping to do ~350whpo and run 12's this year but some tuning issues appear tyo have resulted in a melty piston, so my rebuild might be starting early.
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