Just showing off our work..... ported collectors, welded flanges, manifolds etc....

will be loading pictures as the days go on...enjoy!

 

Tommys and Andys intergra

 

I blew a load.

 

Integra looks cool. Nice work.

 

 

nice work welds great

 

Damn! how much a d-series manifold?

 

more pictures....shops a little dirty but has some cool cars hanging out for the moment.

 

who all welds and fabs at boost flow. are u guys over by the 40th and university like all the rest of the big name honda shops? ive seen the integra in person very nice work there sir.


mike

 

We are located near tempe market place..... Our welder is Tommy Engle he is also the shop manager

 

is that a holset hx52?, if so what kinda numbers is it putting out

 

Actually its a borg warner s366 I believe it has not made power yet Tommy lets it sit at "half race " people have been taking parts off of it kinda a shame going to go under the knife again soon....

 

boostflow u make a manifold for h22? tell me what kind u have and prices thank's

 

Thanks for the interest but we do not build anything for the h22.....Basically its a number of fittment issues and demand...If you were in AZ we could do something one off......

 

Nice pieces...

 

worked on topmounts this last week.... using 316 rod welds have alot of color

 

very nice! does using the 316 rod on 304 had any adverse effects?


mike

 

nice work!

 

Stuff looks great. I wish I had a manifold like this.

 

No adverse effects, basically its just a better grade filler than the 304 base metal they are still stainless not dissimilar metals.

Its a cleaner weld, other welders and companies have been using it for years ...I have to assume its a pricing thing its a bit more for the 316 rod then a 308 rod

 

This is entirely true of structural applications, but 316 is not as immune to high-heat problems as 304/308. A small difference, but one none the less. 316 is not without issues.
This is to take nothing away from the fantastic work though. The manifold looks good, and your photography and set-up skills are improving nicely.

 

well it sure looks **** bells, i was wondering how everybody else was getting that kind of color.


mike

 

Thats an interesting statement....Is 316 not a higher nickle content making it able to take more heat? Also it is a higher molly content having a higher Resistance to corrosion

 

Yes, in theory, corrosion resistance is better. And, in many cases for 316 vs 304, it is. The exception is at high temp service. Both are rated for about the same service temperature roughly when it comes to most literature. The issue arises when the moly content in 316 allows precipitates to form, that eventually cause the weld to become brittle over time. This happens over long periods of exposure to the kinds of temps seen on turbo cars driven hard.
These formations, unlike many, are not alleviated by bringing the temperature of the material over the exposure temp that causes them in the first place. They can't be dissolved back into the metal. Now, we are talking amounts of time that will likely exceed most enthusiasts time with their toy cars, but it will happen. I use 316 on my exhaust/dp's for the same reason as everybody else, the colours. I also use it for extra corrosion resistance as mentioned, and because post-turbo parts will never see high temps for any extended time.
Manifolds in general are not something I'm keen on doing. Mostly, because all of you guys do a great job, and I don't need to build them to stay busy.
The other reason, is that they will all fail if driven long enough. I'm young, and I know that I will remain in contact with many customers for another 25 years. I offer lifetime warranty on anything I do. For this reason, I pick my battles. 100,000 miles will put enough cycles through any material to ruin it. Industry shows very well how fatigue and heat are very destructive. I have yet to see anything stand-up forever once you enter the 1000+ degree territory. I've seen many examples, and read alot of studies,etc on stainless and nickel alloys. I'm just passing some of it along as a caution. I'll tell you that 309 is one of the best rods to have around the shop if you could only carry one. It has excellent high heat properties, is the best for ss-ms, and does a hell of a job of ss-ss.
310 is another good rod to have around.

 

i love reading what bells has to say......... ive never used 309 on my ms-ss (because my local welding shop doenst carry it) ive always used 308 for every thing that ss-ss and ms-ss. that being said are there any issue with using the 308 on mild to stainless bells?


mike