This is the trans swap from hell! I've converted my '88 CRX DX from auto to manual. Got the conversion done about 2 weeks ago.... only to find out that the trans I had was a goner... So I tracked down another trans and tonight tried to install it only to find that the input shaft is different and doesn't fit my clutch plate....

The bad trans I had was supposed to be from an '89 CRX DX and the One I have now is supposed to be from an '89 CRX SI. But the SI trans has a larger diameter splined input shaft than my old trans and clutch did. The parts warehouse I shop at most of the time lists the same clutch for both DX and SI models and lists the '89 clutch as a 1 year only item.....

SO CAN ANYBODY TELL ME WHAT YEAR THE LARGE DIA INPUT SHAFT IS FROM SO I CAN GET THE RIGHT CLUTCH? ALSO, DO I JUST NEED THE FRICTION DISC OR DO I NEED THE PRESSURE PLATE ALSO?

..... (grumble grumble.... stupid *&%!@$C!!! car!).

Thanks everybody for any help you can offer. I really need it since I'm at my wits end on this swap!

 

Nobody yet, really? Ok, I looked up on my Exedy chart, and found some dimensions for you.

88 Civic 21 spline 22mm hub 200mm disc
89 Civic 20 spline, 22mm hub 200mm disc
90-05 Civic 20 spline 22mm hub 212mm disc

You can see all 89-05 Civic clutches are interchangeable, but the 89 Civic disc is smaller in diameter

 

Could be a certain ZC or D16A1 trans, but I don't have dimensions on those discs....what does the case of the trans say?

 

I'll check the label on the trans tonight... You're thinking about the sticker on the front of the bell housing right?

The clutch from my other trans was a 212mm unit, so as long as the splines from the 89 and the 90+ trans were the same I think that means that this is either the '88 or a ZC/D16A1 trans... I put an adjustable wrench on the input shaft (didn't want to grab my calipers) and the splined section was about 1-1.5mm larger than my clutch alignment tool... The tool was correct for my other trans so unless the tool is smaller than the trans input shaft, then I'd say this has a larger diameter splined section....

FWIW, If it's a trans that the tuners are interested in, I'd be willing to do some bartering for a stock DX trans....

 

I love those gearsets...where you located?

Doesn't sound like it's an 88 trans, as the hub diameter is the same, just different spline count.

 

I'll find out more tonight when I get home.... I've got a call in to the prev. owner, but haven't heard back from him yet. I'll post the numbers from that sticker in an hour or two.

I'm in Flagstaff, AZ BTW.

 

OK, here's what I got....

The input shaft IS 22mm (verified w/ my calipers today) and is 21 spline. the Tag on the trans is L3-1167329. I've tried looking transmissions up by this tag in the past but never had any luck. If there's a source for info based on this # I'd sure like to hear it.

So I'm back to thinking this is an '88 trans. I"ll have to order a new friction disc for it.... But can anybody verify if I can use the PP and flywheel I have? I certainly don't see why not, but I'm not exactly well versed in my honda facts.

 

You can use the other pressure plates just fine.

Sounds like it is a 88 clutch.

 

Crap,
So after the local parts store ordered the wrong clutch and had to re-order, I finally got the trans in and all sewn up last night (In spite of nearly 30" of snow and me having no garage!)... Except for one thing.

When I went to fill the trans with oil, the drain plug wouldn't come out for anything. I literally ended up heating the trans case with a torch and pulling on the bolt until it rounded off (Never stripped a bolt with a box end wrench before.... Damn!), that's how tight it is.

I've pulled the starter and started working on the fill plug in the top of the trans, but that is showing signs of being just as stuck.

So does anybody have any ideas or suggestions? Obviously without oil all my effort is for nothing.....

 

I take out a sensor on the top of the trans. I believe it is for the reverse lights. Add 1.8 qts of oil, and you're good to go!

 

Tried that... The boot on my reverse light switch makes it impossible to get a wrench on it easily. I may go back to that but even for that one the PITA factor is through the roof due to poor access. At least with the plug under the starter, I can get a socket and extension on it...

Are plugs freezing in place a normal problem? I can't believe how stuck these things are!

 

19mm plug under the starter is easiest route

 

on the top of the transmission on the back is the speed sensor, its a 10mm, take off the one bolt and pull the speed sensor out, put in 2 quarts of tranny fluid, i like gm or pennzoil syncromesh personally but whatever you put in it, is up to you, then when you put in the 2 quarts, obviously put the speed sensor back in so its flush, and then put the bolt in, be careful though, its easy to strip/brake i had it happen to a few friends of mine, put it on snug, then give it a little 1/4 to 1/2 turn

 

crx speed sensor is under the dash.....

 

I got the top plug out. I ended up having to pull the top rad hose to get it out of the way. Once I could get the socket on straight, it just took a good tug with a 2ft breaker bar and an 18" extension. Anyway, filled the trans and took it for a quick test drive.

Man, the SI gears are LOW. I knew the auto trans was a dog, but damn, this is like having a different car! It's actually fun to drive now (not good for what I originally wanted... I guess this won't ever be a MPG car now with this trans....)

Now I just need to fix a small noise from the flywheel rubbing on the lower bellhousing cover (I had to re-use the autobox cover so the fit isn't exactly perfect) and figure out why the check engine light is on...

In regards to the check engine light, is there a low coolant sensor that might be causing the light to turn on? I know I'm a bit low on rad fluid at the moment (going to the parts store now to fix that problem).

Thanks all, for what was supposed to be an easy swap, this thing has given me nothing but problems. At least now I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.

EDIT: It wasn't the fluid levels, so I'm back to trouble shooting. I guess I need to learn how to read codes on this car....

 

what is the code?

No low coolant level sensor.

Be surprised what MPG you can get even turning more rpms but LESS load on the motor with 5 speed manual gearbox.

Just have to learn to keep the funfoot out of it and MPG comes right back.

 

The check engine light stopped coming on after a few driving cycles. I think the ECU was just learning the engine parameters or something.

I was getting 46-50 mpg hwy with the auto... I think that will be hard to beat w/ the SI trans.... Not that it matters now though. I'm pretty sure the trans is bad. It's making noises like the input shaft bearing is on the outs. I'm trying to contact the guy I bought the trans from, but no luck so far...