Materials:

20 feet of 2 gauge wire (99c/foot at Home Depot)
2 feet of 8 gauge wire (Don't remember, cheap though)
Various ring terminals ($3 for a pack of 4, Parts Express)
2 car audio battery terminals (to accept big wire, $4, Parts Express)
1 DB048 power distribution block ($15, Parts Express)
1 100 amp circuit breaker ($40, Parts Express)
Zip-ties

Let’s dive in shall we? Before we start, big wire is hard to bend. Use zip ites to secure in certain places you choose.



My factory ground was toast! This is what the ground looks like underneath your factory battery setup. It grounds to the tranny.



You will soon have all this room for your turbo air filter or just to look good.



These are some parts I used



Plan your wiring path. Here is mine.



Plan to make this turn BEFORE the ECU. It is much easier and will not bulge up out of the carpet. Under the ECU there will be a ridge. Route it along that.



Now the firewall. My car was a GS and some of the holes in the firewall are filled already by accessories. I found a hole behind my intake manifold. The hole is there in the metal but the rubber doesn't have a hole in it. Instead of doing a lot of uncomfortable hacking and slashing under the dash, I did this. Take a screwdriver and puncture the firewall rubber. My hand is the firewall.



Pull it through under the dash. It will come out a bit above and to the right of the driver pedal.



READ THIS WHOLE STEP FIRST! Now, cut your factory positive wire as close as you can to the factory terminal. You will need all the length you can get. The factory wire is two wires together in a loom. Approximately somewhere near the distributor there is a junction where the wires split off. Take all that apart BEFORE you cut ANYTHING! I tried to cut the junction for awhile before I realized there is a metal piece around it. It comes off by a bolt to the left. Take the metal off and then cut. I used my 2 feet of 8 gauge for the fuse power and reused the factory wire for the starter.



Use a piece of the factory loom cover to protect your power wire as it goes through the firewall. You don't want the line to get chaffed.

 

Take off your interior panels. Route the wire under the carpet and down the passenger door like in the above picture. After the door take it behind the frame piece and continue the wire through to the trunk area. Notice the two Zip ties.




Put some thick tape along this ridge. Again, you don't want to chaff the line.



Take this time to tape down this drain tube. It drains water from your sunroof. Mine was very loose. You don't want it to come out and turn your trunk into a pool. Especially with your battery back there now.



Back up to the front. Notice how obvious the distribution block is. I took the package it came in and cut it up a bit and painted it. I wanted it to look more stealthy. Also you must mount your distribution block on the firewall.




Ta DA! This is with flash though. In person in is not noticeable.





To the back again. Take a look at the picture. The reason I mounted the circuit breaker up high is because I wanted it out of the way of being hit by something moving around in the trunk. You don't want something in your trunk to hit the button while driving. Instant dead car. Also, by being up high underneath your cover, it is less likely to be seen by a thief. Remember though, this thief just spent a load of time under your hood thinking the battery was there.

Make some holes in the plastic. Two holes for each mounting hole. Use your zip-ties. They will be more convenient to cut if you need to take it out rather than screwing something down. Make yourself a nice ground. I chose one of my strut tower bolts(ring terminal).



"WHY A CIRCUIT BREAKER AND NOT A FUSE?"

Do you want to spend money continuously replacing fuses? With a circuit breaker it is very convenient. When the switch is open, the power is off. When the switch is in, the power is on. No more disconnecting your battery to work on the car, just press the button. Not feeling safe somewhere? Take your under hood fuse and open your circuit breaker. How nice!




Now it is on.



Pretty much a finished product.



Now with the cover.



<FONT COLOR="Red">ATTN! This type of battery is not safe to drive with because it is not sealed. I am not driving this car yet. This was used just for the write-up. I am going to purchase a dry-cell battery. If you want to do this you should use a dry-cell or sealed battery.</FONT>


A farewell shot for the day.

 

This is what is in store for my next write-up for you all.

 

no comments at all? damn...

bump*

 

good details

 

Not really that "ultimate", i did one of these on a friends DA is maybe 3 hours with 4 ppl working on it. Good write up nonetheless. Ditch the neon lights though srsly.

 

My opinion/comments.

1. Your radiator support on the passenger side is fu-bar'd.
2. You need a switch outside of the car for a shutoff for your battery, to be NHRA, SFWD or anything to race to be legal.
3.Your painted interior and neons are quite 2001.

Have a nice day

 

I wouldnt use a circuit breaker, when that thing jams then your car lights up in fire. I've seen few cars that had it happen to them.

 

Personally, I think you should fix that smashed in core support and give your mom back the linoleum off the kitchen floor, that stuff doesnt look very nice in the hatch.

I may be confused, is this Honda-Tech or Ghetto-Tech?

 

cool write up, nice wood grain

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Daft_Soul &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is what is in store for my next write-up for you all.



</TD></TR></TABLE>

now all you need is a couple strobe lights!!!
then you can throw a rave in your car!!!!