Hi there Honda-tech members.

I'm seeking a bit of advice if I should buy a b16 on CL.
A bit of background: I have a 95 Eg hatch, 95% stock for now. I actually bought a b18b1 motor a while ago and I've been piecing together a swap, but I'm still unsure of a LS swap, and the motor in general. Got it cheap, not sure on condition.

Anyway, I found this guy selling a b16a2 motor. I saw it for sale previously, then, I guess this guy got it, and it's now for sale, but about 80 miles from the original location. I talked to the guy and he said he got it in a trade. The original ad said "blown rings on cyl3". For sale was a complete b16 shortblock, head, valve cover, distributor, intake manifold, throttle body, and a new set of Nippon CTR pistons w/rings included in the sale. The guy who has it now is more of a Toyota guy and he said "gimme $400 and take everything"

seems like a decent enough deal. The motor is going to need work to even be usable. but is it worth it?
My issue is, I've read many threads about b16s, and almost everyone says "sell the b16, get a b20. b16 will cost 3x or 4x more and deliver less power than b20."

what's the deal here..? Are these b16s just worthless? Should I buy the motor from this guy just for the head and sell the block for little more than scrap? Believe me, I have my doubts too. If the rings are shot, the rest of the motor probably isn't in much better condition. But I will do my due diligence on that one.
Everyone keeps saying "omg it's got NO torque!!! swap it for a b20!" If nobody wants b16s, and the b20s are so much better, why do b16s cost so much?
Come on guys..111 torks isn't "nothing". It's less than the 127 from a B18b1 motor...but only by ~10%, as it has 10% less displacement. Not really a big deal...my d15b7 has 98 torks, it would be an improvement. Hard to argue with a nice 160hp, and I assume it would be much higher after CTR pistons and more aggressive cams?
Should I buy it for $400, keep the head for my LS, and part the rest?

 

swap the b16 head onto your LS (after doing some rod bolts of course). I wouldn't dream of swapping a b16 into anything that weighs over 2000lbs. It's a different story if it came stock like in an em1.

not sure if i trust someone saying a complete shortblock and then list a head as well.

 

Yes, I read the thread on how to make a reliable ls/vtec build. rod bolts are a must.
Anything over 2000lbs? That's a stripped EF or Crx. I can't think of much else. I think my EG is like 2250lbs. Why is it a different story if it's in an EM1? I understand that Honda put it there, but how does that make it any better?

It was a complete motor, but the head and block were separated, or they are in the pictures. I would assume someone took the head off to inspect the cylinder walls. The seller didn't say "complete shortblock", I said that to reiterate that it is a complete motor. Seems like the only thing missing are the accessories.

 

because it is original to the car. i wouldn't waste my time swapping it into anything. the lack of torque is apparent, even going from a b18b integra.

 

I see. So, in other words, is a b16 worth not much more than..say a d16? Other than the fact that a b16 has that nice, juicy vtec head?

I guess if a b16 doesn't have vtec it would be utterly worthless?

 

Get the b16 and sell the block. Keep the head. Get a b20 (you really just need the block) and go B20V. 170hp and 135ft-lbs minimum. Less than $1000

Oh, and ^ that's WHEEL hp, not crank. Most B16's wont put out over 135 to the wheels.

 

Dont forget rod bolts. You dont wanna destroy a good engine because of those crap bolts the ls/b20 have