Here is the situation. I have a car with a good battery. When I go out to start it up, it starts perfectly. If I drive it for five or ten minutes and turn it off, it will not start back up until 30 or 45 minutes later.

Any ideas?

 

Thats a pretty common symptom of a failing main relay.

 

If a bad relay is the problem, what all is involved in fixing it? Where is the main relay located? Is this an expensive fix?

 

You can resolder it yourself or buy new from the dealer for $60. Search on here for more info.

 

If the engine will crank but not start then I agree it could be the PGM-FI Main Relay.

After driving and you try and restart, when you turn ign. switch to run, [not start] can you hear the fuel pump prime the fuel lines, fuel pump should come on for a few sec. then turn off.

What is the MM&Y of the car? 94

 

After I drive the car for a five or ten minutes and I immediately try to turn it back on, I do hear the fuel pump. I might get one or two cranks out of it, and then it acts as if the battery is dead (battery is new though). If I wait 30 or 45 mins the car will start with some slow cranking.

 

OIC, then the problem is not the PGM-FI Main Relay.

Still need MM&Y of car and is it an auto or 5 speed?

The problem could be as simple as a loose connection or a bad starter/starter solenoid.

Start by making sure both the batt. lead and solenoid control lead, [starter wire] are properly connected, [tight] to the starter motor, pay special attention to the starter lead as it is just a plug in.

Try this...
When it will not turn over, MAKE SURE CAR IS NOT IN GEAR, turn ign. switch to run, using a jumper wire with one end connected to the batt. pos.(+) touch the other end to solenoid control terminal on the starter motor, again be careful engine will crank even if car is in gear and ign. switch is off.

 

Thanks for the help. Car is a 1989 Mustang with a 302 and 150k+ miles. Auto tranny and all stock.

 

LMAO, then it definitely is not the PGM-FI Main Relay, as it does not have one.

I would check the starter solenoid, make the "jump" there, turn ign, switch to run, connect the two big terminals on the solenoid, use something like a jumper cable, [it is high current].

If that does not crank the engine, [and you have made sure power cable on starter motor is tight] replace the starter motor. 94

 

WOW...that would have been useful information from the beginning considering this is a HONDA forum not Ford.

 

same problem here but im drivin a eg6 hatch (b16a3 swap'd)

pull the distributor cap off(3 screws) take the rotor off(1 screw) and unplug the icm (3 wires attached to it) take the ignition control module out of the distributor and have an auto shop or store test it. i know napa does it for free here. if that fails buy a dizzy from the yard cheap seince its an old car anyways. i kno some of the auto stores charge rediculously to much for them but you might be able to find a decent price if you shop around. also have the coil tested while your at it.. only 2 screws on that.

i tried both of these and my test passed. my car will start up and run good cold but it sputters/ bogs like **** and it doesnt start once its warm. i havent checked my main relay so i plan on this next but heres the link to my thread. https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/b16-eg6-starts-fine-runs-good-cold-very-hard-start-bogs-when-hot-2460867/

i have seen alot of similar problems lately.... must be that -20 degree weather.

 

fords are always bad for the starter solenoid going bad....10$ part and an easy fix

 

x2 there too... starter shouldnt make the engine die after running but if yours doesnt turn over then its probably the starter. if its similar to my issue and it starts and runs cold but doesnt start and bogs when warm then check the dizzy.