heres the deal...it cranks perfectly...just won't start. i just tried to wire my secondary o2 so i am assuming it has something to do with that. is there some 'special' kind of wire i am supposed to use? i used 22 gauge from radio shack...nothing special. followed the instuctions to the T...where should i start? oh yeah...00 b16 in an 00 cx hatch in case it matters. thanks for ANY help you can give...i am currently stuck at the place i a working on it...WTF.

 

are you getting fuel to the rail? tahts where i would start since its cranking

 

alright...now i'm getting somewhere. the fuse in the engine bay for the fuel(injection) was blown. replaced it with a new 15 and it blew again immediately. WTF...why would it do that?

 

Bad ground or a short in the wire some where.

 

yep short to ground. well I'll give you a few places to look. The first place I would look is the pgm-fi main relay, make sure it is working correctly. If you don't know how to check the relay then I would not try and fix the car yourself. and take it to someone who knows.

the SRS shares the same fuse as the fuel pump in most civics.you might look there. The easiest way to find the short is to get a manual for the car and look at the ETM section and make sure all the connections of the curcut are good. I know that the circuit gets its ground from the ECM. let me know how it goes.

 

IT LIVES...when i ran to the auto parts store for fuses i saw they had NICE wire there so i bought a spool. THEN i decided why not kill time by ripping whole interior out. first time i did that...lots of fun. anyway...i rewired it with the good wire through a whole i found in the floor right by the sensor (i was going to drill if i didn't find anything) and she started up...a little sluggish. whats the best way to reset the ecu?

 

why would everything be alright right? i'm really beginning to LOVE this whole swap thing. so it DOES run but not right. 1.) it is idling high...about 1-1100. i thought that was pretty high. 2.) it does this wierd surge thing when the rpms get low...like right before i push the clutch in before i come to a stop...or even downshift for that matter. i haven't checked the cel yet because i am exhausted...tomorrows another day...WTF. any ideas?

 

my stock motor does the same thing... I think it's the Intake Air Control Valve...

not positive though...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NonovUrbizniz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I think it's the Intake Air Control Valve...

</TD></TR></TABLE>

bad or just out of whack? is this something thats easily replaced?

 

Sweet, glad to see that you got the swap running.

For the surging and everything else, check the following:

First of all reset the ECU, you can disconnect the (-) negative terminal for 1 minute, or pull the PGM-FI/ECU fuse under the hood for about a minute and that will reset the ECU.

For the surging, make 100% you have no vacuum leaks, check all connections to the intake manifold, adjust the idle screw.

- Take off the radiator cap and make 100% sure the water system has NO air bubbles and is full of coolant/water.

- Under your throttle body, there is what you call the fast idle valve. If you look behind it there will be a plate with 2 screws holding it on, and a white diaphram looking thing on it as well. Tighten the white part all the way until it's tight and then reinstall it.

- Take off the IACV, grab some carb cleaner or brake cleaner and clean the screens, then reinstall the IACV.

- Be aware of new CEL's that come up.

HTH.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by poison &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sweet, glad to see that you got the swap running.

For the surging and everything else, check the following:

First of all reset the ECU, you can disconnect the (-) negative terminal for 1 minute, or pull the PGM-FI/ECU fuse under the hood for about a minute and that will reset the ECU.

For the surging, make 100% you have no vacuum leaks, check all connections to the intake manifold, adjust the idle screw.

- Take off the radiator cap and make 100% sure the water system has NO air bubbles and is full of coolant/water.

- Under your throttle body, there is what you call the fast idle valve. If you look behind it there will be a plate with 2 screws holding it on, and a white diaphram looking thing on it as well. Tighten the white part all the way until it's tight and then reinstall it.

- Take off the IACV, grab some carb cleaner or brake cleaner and clean the screens, then reinstall the IACV.

- Be aware of new CEL's that come up.

HTH.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I was under the impression that you should not touch the idle adjuster screw on a honda under all but ANY circumstances... was I mis-informed...

I've always thought that you check all the vacum lines, iacv, and fast idle valve before you mess with the idle screw... Frankly I thought even then you're not supposed to mess with it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NonovUrbizniz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


I was under the impression that you should not touch the idle adjuster screw on a honda under all but ANY circumstances... was I mis-informed...

I've always thought that you check all the vacum lines, iacv, and fast idle valve before you mess with the idle screw... Frankly I thought even then you're not supposed to mess with it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Who told you that? BIG TIME misinformation.

 

It must have been for another car then...

I just checked my helms though and it does say if neccisary adjust it... so I guess I got some wires crossed in my head...

thanks for the info.

 

NP

 

alright, heres what the cel is flashing...

67 : could this be because i am using a high flow cat? would the sensor see the cat as inefficient?

10 : where the hell did this come from? this IS the sensor that goes into the intake right?

would either of these cause a high idle(about 1-1100)? how about the surge at low rpm's?

 

up for more ideas...

 

still running like ish. one thing i noticed today is it starts real slow...like it doesn't want to. still the same codes...67 and 10. what does this IAT thing do exactly? any ideas anyone?

 

67 = Catalyst system Efficiency Below Threshold malfunctioning or defective catalyst system

10 = IAT

IAT is the Intake Air Temp sensor. It senses the air temperature inside the intake manifold. Sounds to me like the sensor is bad or the wiring is not configured properly.

 

i did not touch the wiring on ANYTHING but the secondary o2...now i have even disconnected all of those wires and still same codes...is the ecu not clearing properly? i mean the secondary is no longer even hooked up and still a code 67? what do these sensors cost from honda? i was searching around and saw a few posts saying the IAT effects fuel delivery and timing...is this true? that would explain why i smell fuel and the car bogs on start.

 

I had a high idle like that when I first did my swap. Then I realized that I forgot to ground the VTEC.

 

the iat determines the temp. of the incoming air... the ecu then adjusts the fuel delivery to compensate for more oxygen (when the intake air is cold) or less oxygen (when the intake temps are high).

As far as if it fits your specific probs. I don't know but a couple people have said it would...

If a code comes up due to a bad sensor and you remove it, the code will still show up because it's not fixed... it's just not there. So the code will come up to alert you that it's not there...

 

well i'm doing the deed...i found a DEALERSHIP that will look at my car and hopefully help me solve this problem. apparently some of the techs actually have hybrids there...hopefully this will not put me in the poor house i couldn't get in for a week so any more ideas will help...thanks for everything so far guys...you've been a huge help.