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So, I'm not sure if this is the best place to put this but I've been having a dilemma with my 01 LS integra. I attempted to do the ckf sensor bypass to clear my cel so I could pass smog.
After quick splicing the wires, I cut them only to realize afterwards the quick splice connectors did not fully pierce the wires. You are supposed to only cut the wires after quick splicing them, the article is very specific about that step and warns that problems may arise if you do not correctly.
I attempted soldering the wires back together with some phone charger wires
Pics:
My solders are pretty terrible, but also I was unaware of whether or not the phone wires are thick enough to properly carry the current through them.
After soldering them (and burning off the insulation with the soldering iron because I was having a hard time stripping them) I attempted the bypass trick again, made sure the quick splice connectors worked correctly this time and then cut the wires.
If the CKF "bypass" was the right fix, Honda would have wired it that way. Install the proper oil pump and a genuine CKF sensor and make it right.
Just because something wasn't intended to be a certain way, doesn't mean a method of modifying it doesn't work.
Furthermore, getting a new sensor would not fix the wiring, and it still would throw the code because the the wires to the sensor are cut. What does an oil pump have to do with any of this?
Geis, my apologies. Most people who attempt this CKF work around are doing so because they are either using a JDM engine or an older USDM OBD-1 engine in an OBD-2 platform chassis, and in failing to plan... install the engine and THEN try to figure out an easy way to work around the missing CKF sensor. "B" series JDM or OBD-1 style oil pumps do not have the bosses to mount the CKF sensor, and it is for this reason that I stated "get the proper oil pump". In looking back at the top of your original post, I realized that you already have a 2001 Integra LS, so the design of the pump would be proper. If the oil pump is original, and you have not made any modifications to the timing belt area around the crankshaft snout, then lets examine the possible reasons why you have the code in the first place.
1) The CKF sensor is damaged. If obvious visible damage exists, trying a known good one or purchasing a new one likely solves your problem.
2) Crankshaft timing gear: Make sure all teeth are fully intact on the back of the gear so that there are no intermittent breaks in the signal output. It is common for people to use a screwdriver to "pry" the crank wheel off when trying to replace the front main seal. Breaking any of the CKF timing teeth will throw a code because the flow of magnetic pulses is interrupted each time the damaged part of the wheel passes the pick-up. Any visible damage to the gear = replace it.
3) Wiring damage: Check continuity between the two wires at the plug near the alternator for the CKF sensor and the appropriate locations at the ECU. IIRC, the two wires are colored white/red and blue/red. If breaks in the wire/wires are detected, run a new shielded pair of wires through the firewall and terminate the two wires at the appropriate locations at the ECU and CKF plug. Do not worry that you have cut/soldered any wires at the ECU because the original CKF sensor is not that sensitive to a spliced wire... as long as you don't go too high up the wire and accidentally get some of the shielding pinched/soldered in with the copper signal wire.
4) If everything has checked out above, the ECU may be damaged. Checking this will be difficult for you because you have an immobilizer in the '00-01 ECU and the car will not start with another ECU... or the new test ECU is married to the key. An alternate test would be to use an OBD-2B -> OBD-2A ECU harness adapter and a '96-99 LS ECU (known good from a running car is best) and plug it in to your car and see if the code is eliminated. If so, you will need to replace the ECU and program the new one to your key.
Geis, my apologies. Most people who attempt this CKF work around are doing so because they are either using a JDM engine or an older USDM OBD-1 engine in an OBD-2 platform chassis, and in failing to plan... install the engine and THEN try to figure out an easy way to work around the missing CKF sensor. "B" series JDM or OBD-1 style oil pumps do not have the bosses to mount the CKF sensor, and it is for this reason that I stated "get the proper oil pump". In looking back at the top of your original post, I realized that you already have a 2001 Integra LS, so the design of the pump would be proper. If the oil pump is original, and you have not made any modifications to the timing belt area around the crankshaft snout, then lets examine the possible reasons why you have the code in the first place.
1) The CKF sensor is damaged. If obvious visible damage exists, trying a known good one or purchasing a new one likely solves your problem.
2) Crankshaft timing gear: Make sure all teeth are fully intact on the back of the gear so that there are no intermittent breaks in the signal output. It is common for people to use a screwdriver to "pry" the crank wheel off when trying to replace the front main seal. Breaking any of the CKF timing teeth will throw a code because the flow of magnetic pulses is interrupted each time the damaged part of the wheel passes the pick-up. Any visible damage to the gear = replace it.
3) Wiring damage: Check continuity between the two wires at the plug near the alternator for the CKF sensor and the appropriate locations at the ECU. IIRC, the two wires are colored white/red and blue/red. If breaks in the wire/wires are detected, run a new shielded pair of wires through the firewall and terminate the two wires at the appropriate locations at the ECU and CKF plug. Do not worry that you have cut/soldered any wires at the ECU because the original CKF sensor is not that sensitive to a spliced wire... as long as you don't go too high up the wire and accidentally get some of the shielding pinched/soldered in with the copper signal wire.
4) If everything has checked out above, the ECU may be damaged. Checking this will be difficult for you because you have an immobilizer in the '00-01 ECU and the car will not start with another ECU... or the new test ECU is married to the key. An alternate test would be to use an OBD-2B -> OBD-2A ECU harness adapter and a '96-99 LS ECU (known good from a running car is best) and plug it in to your car and see if the code is eliminated. If so, you will need to replace the ECU and program the new one to your key.
Good luck.
Thank you for the rather detailed response, it is much appreciated. I figure that either the sensor has gone bad or the wiring is to blame, since I did not originally have the problem for a while after purchasing the car, so I would presume the gear is fine. I'll take a look at it though
The main issue i had with soldering job was how shoddy it was, the wires I used are significantly less thick than the wiring harness wires. They have less copper inside them, I removed the insulation a really crappy way and probably didn't clean the copper well enough, and I've never soldered anything before and was using a trashed tip from melting insulation (I have more tips thankfully)
I'm not sure if my f*ckups have anything to do with the signals not getting through the wire, I really should get a voltmeter to check that out. Thankfully, my chipped obd1 ecu works perfectly, and doesn't throw any codes since they don't detect the ckf sensor. However, I need to get the car smogged which is the main reason as to why I'm undertaking this problem, and even if I am able to get it smogged another way (hopefully since I'm on a severe time constraint) I would want to get this fixed so that I do not have to worry about it in the future.
03-19-2016, 12:20 PM
Wiring problems
