A friend of mine is looking to do a simple (relatively speaking) B20vtec setup. He currently has a B20Z and will most likely go with a B16 head. It seems to me at least that there are relatively few people running setups out there with the stock B20 pistons, etc. I figure if he keeps the compression at around 10:1 and only revs it to 7500 or so the longevity will be greatly improved over those who have had problems with the sleeves when theyre runnin high compression and rev high without a sleeved block.

Just lookin for some opinions


[Modified by tampaSi, 1:26 AM 2/7/2003]

 

ask b20bastard, he made awesome numbers with his "stock block" crvtec

 

I think people are having problems w/ sleeves because they are running w/ poor tuning, 13:1+ compression and revving to 9k+... 10:1 compression and 8krpms should be just fine, get arp rod bolts though for safer revving.

 

Pete (pest) on here makes 209whp/156tq with a stock bottom end (OS B20z). His motor is for his Honda Challenge race car, so the rules state the bottom has to be OE. Think he has a milled Portflow head and Skunk Stg 2 cams also. Chad (chad) has one too (for same race series), but I'm not sure of his numbers. Both are more than willing to answer any questions you may have.

 

Did they cut the valve relieves in the stock piston, so that there is no contact with running such a big cam

 

Don't think so. He did say he clayed everything to know how much adj. he had to work with. He can probably answer these questions better than I.

 

he probably should answer that, because i found that on a b20z with a gsr head and a 2 layer head gasket i could not run anything other than a b16 intake cam(first gen). and on the exhaust i was running a gsr cam. even with a b16 head, the biggest cam you'll be able to run is a integra type r(according to crvtec.com, when they were up)

 

right now with a stock bottom end, b16 head and gsr cams i feel that is not making the power it should. but i can also blame that on the fact that, i'm still using the factory exhaust(b16 header, and 88 crx pipeing) and a single cam aem short intake! i wanna see what's gonna do when i do intake and exhaust, as well as fuel rail and regulator!

 

the 'stockish' setup you describe will be OK,

i enlarged the valve reliefs in my set-up to be safe (plus i milled 1mm off the head)

i have stock bottomend besides ARP rod bolts...

i rev to 8000rpm without concern...

mind you, i have fairly low compression (9.8:1) so there is less stress at that RPM than on a 12:1 CR engine...

the stock set up is great value BTW, much better drivability is achieved from the gobs of B20 torque

t..

 

smokey, a better exhaust will be AWESOME, the b16 collector is 1 3/4in = very restrictive on the 2.0 once you get past 6000rpm.

you should get the FPR instaled ASAP to bump the pressure upto about 50psi. this will prevent you from running too lean...

t..

 

smokey, a better exhaust will be AWESOME, the b16 collector is 1 3/4in = very restrictive on the 2.0 once you get past 6000rpm.

you should get the FPR instaled ASAP to bump the pressure upto about 50psi. this will prevent you from running too lean...

t..[/QUOTE]

i actually felt the car not making any power after 6.5 to 7000rpms, this past saturday at the track. i keep being told that once i do the exhaust and the intake, that i should see at least 10whp and be 3-4mph quicker in the 1/4 mile! i will get the fpr asap!

 

Im Running a B20 with a B16 head. I know that one of the most important things you need to do is up grade your fuel system, Fuel Rail, pressure regulator, fuel pump. I have all stock internals and i dont run my car hard to often but when i do i usually notice a power loss anywhere over 7100 rpm. So i would not recommend running it over that. I have raced a few cars and so far i have come on top. So you have yourself a nice combo there.

 

my friend just did a b20/vtec swap on his 98 dx coupe... it has an all stock 99 si head, stock 98 crv block, and a LS tranny

dynoed w/ I/h/e and a fuel pressure regulator it got 166.3 hp to the wheels prolly bout 190ish to the flywheel

 

I dyno'd at 163hp to the wheels with Intake and exaust, stock block stock head stock header, just fpr and fpg, I have a fuel pump but havent gotten around to installing it. My car just seems to REALLY start pulling at 7k and just rips all the way till 8200.




[Modified by irev210, 9:50 AM 3/24/2003]

 

This may be a little bit of a topic change....but are you guys running an aftermarket PCV system, or catch can setup? This is my only concern with the non-vtec lower end and the vtec head........crankcase ventillation is important.

 

nope
stock bottom stock head

 

I have jdm b20b with b16 head 2 layer head gaskets, gsr cams, 64mm throttle body, dc 4-1 header, iceman intake, magnaflow exhaust system, high flow cat., set my fpr at 43 psi. I made 174 hp at the wheel and 130 ft/lb of torque untune. I do have some lean spot a certain rpm ranch. I recommend changing the stock fuel pump to a high flow one for this set-up.

 

my friend is running an aftermarket pcv system

 

my friends runnin that to and its very nice

 

i think he is goin with sometin different though, he likes it but he wants sometin else

 

both of my friends running b20/vtecs with stock bottoms have cut reliefs in the pistons like you mentioned earlier, both of them have built b16 heads one of them has skunk stage 3's and the other has the crower stage 2's. fast cars!

 

i guess they had to pull the pistons out of the block, to cut the reliefs on the pistons! what rpm are they limiting at? how much did they pay to have the reliefs cut? thankx!

 

Alls I got to say is that CRVTEC is AWSOME! Even with four people in a 92 hatch it still pulled like crazy!!! It was running quite lean though, I hope he gets it tunned better then it is, hes only running a Skunk2 1.6L program w/ a 2.0!!!! The headers were white after we made a few runs. NOT SMART> I would have never done that to a CRVTEC.... Oh well to each thier own. Good Luck!

Blaze

 

Thats funny, cause I had a bad/defective FPG, and i THOUGHT i was setting my FPR to 50PSI, but really it was 32PSI, my car ran like ***, and was runnign lean as ****. When I checked my spark plugs, It was frosty white, I quickly changed the gauge to a working gauge and now im running good.

Thank goodness for no damage.

 

no, all the work was done in my garage with the pistons in just the head off the motor, just get a dremmel and an extra valve that you might have laying around and draw a line in the shape of the valve reliefs and cut it about 1/8 in deeper and wider. worked fine for both of them.