here is the deal.........i had 55 shot on, decided to up to the 75 since i got my new pump and ecu....well i ran slower 1/4 times and car didn't seam right, so i checked the plugs, they were as white as my car. here is what i have.

92 cx, b16a2, CAI, dc 4-1 jdm header, 2.5" exhaust, act street disk and extreme presure plate, walbro 255lph fuel pump, p30 usdm ecu, and timing was retarded 4 degrees. zex dry kit 55, 65, 75

am i missing something that i need or is something else wrong? as a side note, the ecu was throwing code 41 since i got it, and i belive that might be the problem but i'm not sure how much and O2 sensor heater code has an effect on what is happening. car ran great on the 55 shot with a mugen chipped p28, didn't check plugs tho

 

Well white plugs can indicate detonation or a lean condition. but I don't really know what to say about your situation....consider this a free bump

Mike

 

Why did you swap ecu's if you have the old one try that. I don't think that the heater code would have any effect on it cause the ecu dosen't read that o2 sensor under full throttle.

 

I have mugen chipped ecu and stock p30 ecu that i bought from a guy on here....

the p28 advances timing and that is not good for use with nitrous, so i ran the p30 and retarded the time at the distributor 4 degress and it was slower than with the 55 shot and chiped ecu.

i'm thinking fuel problem but i don't know why, it just doesn't make much sence.

 

Why don't you use the p28 and retard the timming on the distributer. What is you fuel pressure at?

 

You got any pics of the plugs... Nitrous is fun to read as they do get very cleaned off when you're running right on the edge... Any sign of black/brown and you're running rich... Too white to rainbow and you're running lean... Any signs of detonation on the porcelain or on the ground strap? Also look down between the porcelain and the main body of the plug... There will be a ring there but it's pretty hard to see without an illuminated otoscope... What plugs are you running??? For nitrous, boost, etc. all we run are BKRE7-11's... Zex plugs are expensive and a waste of time... Any pics would help but if you feel you are running lean in anyway back down the jet... Don't even bother with trying to compensate by pulling timing... On around a 70hp jet setup I'll back even a stock motor down to 10-12 degrees... Timing just doesn't really do much powerwise on nitrous, you'll just get more detonation problems... Good Luck and I hope this helps... Latez

 

wow, lots of info there.........idk fuel pressure, no pics of plugs at this time, i can get some tho within a few days. I'm running the plugs you said about, and the plugs are white, no sign of detonation, as for timing what should it be at when car is idleing. i belive it was at 12 btdc before i messed with it. grond strap looked kind of funny colored....rainbowy green kind of look.

 

The color is kind of hard to explain, I should have made that a bit clearer and you may be fine anyways... Little inperfections in gas (especailly race gas) cause weird colors on the plugs... When I said rainbow I really meant temperature wise... Basically like what a stainless steel header looks like after you running it... I'm guessing that the bits of green you are talkin about is just the gas, but I could be wrong... I also really wouldn't worry about knowing your static fuel pressure... Yes fuel pressure matters but unless you have a gauge in the car or you're running your car on the dyno where you can watch it, it doesn't do that much good... When you apply nitrous to your FPR it bumps it above your static 0 (zero) vacuum fuel pressue... As for the timing... You're B16's stock igntion timing from the factory is 16 degrees BTDC +/-2... Likewise if you're now down at ~12 degrees your fine...

 

I was at 12 degrees before i adjusted it. and i never touched the timing in this engine since it was bought new. now i'm lost, maybe it's just my timing messed up but why did it run slower than with the 55 shot? I will have to redo the timing and get some pics of the plugs. also i have an egt gauge, but have no idea what it should be reading. something doesn't seam right since the week before the car put out better #s and this past weekend, no matter what i did it ran slow and not what i think it should be. cuz the way it looks now, the less hp the car has the faster it goes. I did manage a 14.15 @ 103.44 2.4 60 ft. fastest mph but not fastest et. fastest et was 14.01 @ 100.60 2.38 60ft

are you saying that even tho they are white that it might be ok? i am definatley going to have to get pics, the #'s just don't add up.

 

any more info?

 

fuel/vac lines are backwards I bet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mista Bone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fuel/vac lines are backwards I bet.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That wouldn't be good Extra nitrous sneaking into the pleunum while your fuel jet limits nitrous press on your fuel pressure regulator... Definately something to check really quick...

 

Would the Zex even work with the lines backwards?

 

Yea, it would still work but like I said not very well... You'll get extra nitrous coming in the vacuum line on the plenum (no jet inline) and low nitrous pressure to the FPR (this line is jetted)... If your car is set up for nitrous (not just a stock motor) it may be less noticable, in that case you would still be able to supply the fuel you need... Who runs a dry kit on a built nitrous motor tho? Though there are some, not too many... Just my $0.02 again...

 

hose from zex NMU that says regulator goes to the tee that i put in the fpr vac line.........the one that says intake on the zex NMU goes to a big vacume pipe on top of the intake..........now this is where it gets good............that used to be for the EVAP pugre solenoid off of the 2000 b16a........my wiring has no wires for this so it's not hooked up but is still on the car, has vacume lines running it to, just no wires.......I teed into that for the intake sorce for the zex NMU, this port has vacume, and the purge valve does not open since there are no wires to it, so in turn the intake part of the NMU has a dedicated vacume sorce since the purge valve is no longer in use..........so the kit is hooked up correctly as far as i know, I can get pics of this setup tomorrow, since now i have a camera that works.

i noticed something you said about the jets........<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kataku2K3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">vacuum line on the plenum (no jet inline) and low nitrous pressure to the FPR (this line is jetted)... </TD></TR></TABLE>

my intake line has the jet in it (.32) and the regulator line has no jet. so either you said that backwards or something isn't right.

 

Yea, I intentionally said it like that, what I said is INCORRECT, I was simply explaining what happens when you hook the hoses up backwards...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 80884 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my intake line has the jet in it (.32) and the regulator line has no jet. so either you said that backwards or something isn't right.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That means you have it setup correctly... With a dry system decreasing the fuel jet increases fuel... On a wet system it's the exact opposite... Going with a bigger jet allows more fuel... Hope I didn't make that too complicated but the bottom line is you have your lines connected correctly...

 

ok, i just wanted to make sure i understood that......now i do...........have question about timing........it was 12 degrees stock when i checked it with the p28, you said 16 is stock, and after i changed it, it is now at 8 degrees..........and i didn't do anthing special to adjust the timing, just hooked up the light and moved the distributor.......can timing cause white plugs, slow times, and 1300 egt's?

 

The ECU (or the computer controlled timing) shouldn't be messing with you timing at idle (750rpm +/- 50)... Get the car down in the 700-800rpm range and shoot the timing... As I said before the B16A/B B18C/1/5 all come with their timing at 16 degrees BTDC from the factory... Spec for them is 16DBTDC +/- 2... Timing can affect a lot with nitrous, it can create a lean state but normally you'll get detonation (and definately notice that on the plug)... Advancing kills retarding just helps keep your motor safer... It could be that you just don't have enough fuel to support the nitrous or your timing is way off... The chemically correct N20:Fuel ratio is 9.65:1, no one runs close to that because we are NOT just running straight nitrous... If in fact you are running lean (or preignition is occuring) that is probably your reason for running slower... Detonation doesn't help keep/make power, instead you simply lose... My advice would be to re-shoot your timing, toss in some new plugs, do a run (with nitrous), then pull the plugs right back out... If it in anyway looks too lean (really white) or there are any signs of detonation... Back down the jet and figure out your fuel/timing before you go back up to your 38N/32F... I personally won't run nitrous on even a stock motor unless you've got atleast an aftermarket ignition... Just about anytime I go over a 75hp jet combination I'll swap out injectors too, it's easier to go with a bigger injector and pull fuel than it is to stick to a stock injector and add... It's not really neccessary, I just do so to be a bit safer... Sorry I went on sooo long...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hose from zex NMU that says regulator goes to the tee that i put in the fpr vac line</TD></TR></TABLE>

You used a "tee"?????????

No tee should be used on the ZEX.....EVER!!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mista Bone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You used a "tee"?????????

No tee should be used on the ZEX.....EVER!!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I was confused at first on this too. You run a vac. line from the fpr to the REG on the ZEX box. Then you run a line from the INTAKE on the ZEX box to the nipple on the intake manifold the regulator once went to. That may solve your lean condition since the ZEX can't compensate with extra fuel by putting a "T" in the line.

 

yea, looks like i didn't put the hoses in the right places I understand what you are saying now.........like running the NMU inline with the fpr vac hoses. not tee'd like i did.........guess that would explain lack of fuel

i can't belive i had this hooked up wrong, used 1 full bottle, and it still runs

that would also explain why it went slower with more n2o, cuz it just made it leaner and leaner. Hey thanks everyone for getting me through this......bottle is being filled at this moment, track on sat, I will let you all know what happens. and again for all of you that helped

 

Good deal man, good thing it was something simple

Get some good numbers so I got something to shoot for

 

In the 2002 season a friend of mine was squeezing on his B16A/EH2... He didn't really care if he blew it up, (he melted the rings, when it went a tad too lean) because he was just building his LSVTEC which he blew in the 2003 season (cracked the stock sleeve)... With his completely stock B16A his best was a 12.65@109 on MT 20x6x14 slicks, that's in a DX model EH2 on an 80hp jet... Well he's addicted to nitrous and we just got done assembling and dropping in his sleeved LSVTEC for next year, so we'll see what that can do... Anywho, you guys have a lot to look foreward too, ~12.6 isn't super fast but it's not bad for an internally stock B16... Have Fun!!!

 

Kataku2K3 timing is going to be set at the 12 that you said with the connector jumped, even tho thats what it was and it was never touched, 12 it is. if you think it isn't gonna work let me know.

 

Yea, if it's showing 12 degrees of timing then you should be fine... Again do a run, pull your plugs... Any signs of detonation pull more timing and check them again... If you can't fix it with timing back down the jet... Good Luck and let us know how this weekend goes... Peace