Whats up with these times?
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ok, last wednesday i was at sears point and i pulled the following times:
Temp: 86F
Realitive Humidity: 49
Absolute Barometer: 30.11
1st run:
R/T: .375 (redlight)
60: 2.516
330: 6.944
1/8: 10.642
MPH: 65.53
1000: 13.863
1/4: 16.573
MPH: 83.32
Temp: 83F
2nd run:
R/T: .645
60: 2.518
330: 6.950
1/8: 10.643
MPH: 65.67
1000: 13.861
1/4: 16.573
MPH: 82.83
Temp: 79
3rd run:
R/T: .747
60: 2.613
330: 7.076
1/8: 10.779
MPH: 65.46
1000: 13.995
1/4: 16.696
MPH: 83.63
Temp: 78
4th run:
R/T: .717
60: 2.531
330: 6.965
1/8: 10.651
MPH: 65.87
1000: 13.851
1/4: 16.537
MPH: 83.92
Im kinda pissed off about those times considering i just dropped about 1K$ into my car and im pulling .5 slower than what i was pulling stock. I know the 17 " rims are killing me, and i plan to run stockers next time or slicks all my mods are current in my sig, i just need some help on what to do to improve those times, im installing my nitrous kit by next wednesday so i can run it then. I also think my timing is off cause i advanced it a little when i put my distributer back on after i got done installing my ignition. i also hear since they put the new drag strip in, that it is angled uphill for better traction (5 degrees), it was kinda hot that day and also a headwind going right at us when we were racing. so im sure that contributes, ill post my times next wednesday, till then i need some suggestions on what kind of timing to run when i install my nitrous, and what PSI to run on the slicks and so forth...anything will help thanks guys!
Racer X (707imports.com)
My Mods:
93 GS
ACT heavy duty street clutch
AEM cold air intake
DC 4-2-1 CC Header
Ground control coilovers
JDM one peice headlights
Trust Exuast
JG ported Throttle body
Crane Cams Hi-6 ignition and fireball coil
17" nippon EVO rims
Temp: 86F
Realitive Humidity: 49
Absolute Barometer: 30.11
1st run:
R/T: .375 (redlight)
60: 2.516
330: 6.944
1/8: 10.642
MPH: 65.53
1000: 13.863
1/4: 16.573
MPH: 83.32
Temp: 83F
2nd run:
R/T: .645
60: 2.518
330: 6.950
1/8: 10.643
MPH: 65.67
1000: 13.861
1/4: 16.573
MPH: 82.83
Temp: 79
3rd run:
R/T: .747
60: 2.613
330: 7.076
1/8: 10.779
MPH: 65.46
1000: 13.995
1/4: 16.696
MPH: 83.63
Temp: 78
4th run:
R/T: .717
60: 2.531
330: 6.965
1/8: 10.651
MPH: 65.87
1000: 13.851
1/4: 16.537
MPH: 83.92
Im kinda pissed off about those times considering i just dropped about 1K$ into my car and im pulling .5 slower than what i was pulling stock. I know the 17 " rims are killing me, and i plan to run stockers next time or slicks all my mods are current in my sig, i just need some help on what to do to improve those times, im installing my nitrous kit by next wednesday so i can run it then. I also think my timing is off cause i advanced it a little when i put my distributer back on after i got done installing my ignition. i also hear since they put the new drag strip in, that it is angled uphill for better traction (5 degrees), it was kinda hot that day and also a headwind going right at us when we were racing. so im sure that contributes, ill post my times next wednesday, till then i need some suggestions on what kind of timing to run when i install my nitrous, and what PSI to run on the slicks and so forth...anything will help thanks guys!
Racer X (707imports.com)
My Mods:
93 GS
ACT heavy duty street clutch
AEM cold air intake
DC 4-2-1 CC Header
Ground control coilovers
JDM one peice headlights
Trust Exuast
JG ported Throttle body
Crane Cams Hi-6 ignition and fireball coil
17" nippon EVO rims
those 60 foot times are ***
i got a 2.4 with my 17"s on.
take the RIMS OFF! mine hurt me about a 1/2 second in the 1/4 (i have timeslips to prove it.)
go run with stock rims, about 22~ psi. should get you down to a 2.3~ 60foot and will help your top end
[Modified by KAMiN, 12:13 AM 6/3/2002]
i got a 2.4 with my 17"s on.
take the RIMS OFF! mine hurt me about a 1/2 second in the 1/4 (i have timeslips to prove it.)
go run with stock rims, about 22~ psi. should get you down to a 2.3~ 60foot and will help your top end
[Modified by KAMiN, 12:13 AM 6/3/2002]
what kind of tires do you have? what were you shifting at? do you have a fuel pressure regulator? if not, these sound like normal times if youre a relatively new driver
practice will help, ive had rt's of 2.3 with 17" rims and stock suspension on my crx w/ls/vtec
practice will help, ive had rt's of 2.3 with 17" rims and stock suspension on my crx w/ls/vtec
Dude! At least you have JDM one-piece headlights. Otherwise you'd be screwed for sure!
jk jk...all I can say is keep practicing, and good luck!
jk jk...all I can say is keep practicing, and good luck!
With those mods you could probably use some more fuel pressure, and besides that your 60' times blow. I try to shoot for 2.2 to 2.3 60' times on street tires. slicks you should be about 2.0 maybe lower if you're a good driver.
Trending Topics
I would really recommend a fuel pressure regulator.. u got all those stuff to help with air flow, u need to add more fuel.. just bump it up like 7-10psi. run ur stock 14's and lighten up ur car. it will definately help.
The 17's are what are killing you. The 60' times look like shiett. I ran 17's on my CRX for months, ran 15.6-15.7 constantly. I put on my 15" GSR Swirlies, and I run constant 15.1-15.3 now, with no other modifications than the wheels.
Get rid of the wheels, then up the FP a little and you should be set.
jB
Get rid of the wheels, then up the FP a little and you should be set.
jB
F all that stuff, your 60' times suck.......if u can pull a 2.2 60's i will probably drop 4 tenths at the end of the track if not more. work on the launch slowly working your rpm higher on each run untill u get wheel hop.....its a trial and error thing
my has ran 15.6 with 2.28 60' work on the launch
my has ran 15.6 with 2.28 60' work on the launch
You said it yourself...the 17's are killing you, they steal a lot of the torque that you have...thus reducing your power and ability to accelerate. Get rid of them, another thing could be cheap tires providing less than optimum traction.
If you're going to install NOS I'd advise that you get the car to a decent dyno shop to see what your A/F looks like before you're needing to pull the head to, at best replace a burnt valve, and at worst replace burnt rings or picking up the pieces to a broken engine...NOS is not a bolt-on.
I'd recommend that you take a drive down to San Jose and see Lawrence at DynoSpot for a little tuning...he's never had a car leave without a gain in power, don't go to the local shop...RPM is an overpriced shop that knows nothing about properly tuning a honda.
Hope that you do well at Sears tomorrow...I'm still awaiting some parts before I can head back out to the track.
Austin
If you're going to install NOS I'd advise that you get the car to a decent dyno shop to see what your A/F looks like before you're needing to pull the head to, at best replace a burnt valve, and at worst replace burnt rings or picking up the pieces to a broken engine...NOS is not a bolt-on.
I'd recommend that you take a drive down to San Jose and see Lawrence at DynoSpot for a little tuning...he's never had a car leave without a gain in power, don't go to the local shop...RPM is an overpriced shop that knows nothing about properly tuning a honda.
Hope that you do well at Sears tomorrow...I'm still awaiting some parts before I can head back out to the track.
Austin
Austin, you bastard i have not seen you in days. im gonna give yea a Call.
Old FormNFunctionEK
Old FormNFunctionEK
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