1. the ring set
2. the main bearings
3. the thrush washers
4. head gasket
5. head bolts

Is that it?

 

rod bearings?
have the cylinder walls honed.

 

do I need main bearings then?

 

You may or you may not, the question is, if you do and you dont replace it are you willing to do it again or pay some one thousands to do it. Replace them all they are not that expensive, they are expensive to put it.
BEARING G, CONN ROD - 67.76$
WASHER SET, THRUST - 9.19$
BEARING G, MAIN T - 42.55$
BEARING G, MAIN B - 46.90$
SPOON 2PC HEADGASKET - 125.00$
SPOON P-73 POSTON SET & RINGS - 330.00$
SPOON B-18C-R RODS - 390.00$
MOTION ASSY TYPE - R , LOST - 242.96$
SEAL EX, VALVE STEM - 5.28$
SEAL IN, VALVE STEM - 5.04$
SEAL, R. CYL HD - 4.30$
TYPE R OIL PUMP - 107.98$
ARP HEAVYDUTY HEAD STUDS - 151.50$
BRONZE VEALVE GUIDES, IN - 42.56$
BRONZE VEALVE GUIDES, EX - 42.56$
STAINSELL STEEL RACING VALVES - 320.00$
JUN VALVESPRING KIT - 380.00$
JUN RACING CAMSHAFTS -1040.00$
ALANIZ PnP - 900.00$
4253.58$
Here is something I did once when I got to the thinking, I'm still working on it. Most prices are from web sites and they are just listed prices so they are kinda high.

 

what do you guys think about buying the parts at say checker or autozone or pepboys? rather than OEM?

 

NOT THE BEST IDEA.

if you need to re-ring a block, you might not need the main bearings and may not need rod bearings. there is a chance your current bearings will still be in tolerance. you can plastiguage them to verify this. if they are all fine, you will save yourself $100 + in costs right there.

you can re-use headbolts 3 times easily too.

otherwise, you will need a cylinder wall honing most likely, new oversize pistons perhaps and new rings to match.