Weird problem without CEL, y7/y8 minime
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From: Pico Rivera, CA
Background: Did a mini me swap on a 99-00 Civic hatch. Got the head resurfaced and hot tanked before putting it on the y7 block. While I was there, I changed the water pump, timing belt and oil seals on the crank side and I also got a new distributor for it because the old one was going bad. While the harness was off, me and my friend went ahead and did a "wire tuck" (quite literally just rerouting wires so they aren't as visible, no removal of any components) and made sure to solder every wire that needed to be shortened/lengthened.
Once we put everything back together, I made sure to set the timing to spec and before I put on the valve cover, I did a valve adjustment and put that to spec as well. When I started it, it fired right up and purred like a kitten. Went out for a drive and everything seemed normal until we reached a stop.
Problem(s): The idle was a little higher than normal for a couple seconds, then dropped down to where it almost turned off, then restored itself to the normal 750 and stood there. The car does this at pretty much every other stop. It happens if you push in the clutch all the way while moving.
Also the car does not travel through the RPMs smoothly and is especially jerky while driving normally. After a couple days of driving, it threw a "P0172 Fuel System Too Rich" CEL but that CEL can be caused by a multitude of things.
Just yesterday my speedo stopped working sometime while driving home but I was told this could be caused by minor corrosion which I will be sure to check for tonight,
The Question:What can the problem be? Could it be the fuel map on the ECU not matching the slightly increased compression of the minime? New distributor not working quite right? An error on the wire tuck harness?
Side notes:
The car is absolutely fine while it is not moving. Idles fine, moves through the rpm's smoothly.
Using a head, intake manifold and injectors from a 96-98 Civic EX 5 speed, OBD2B P2P ECU, all gaskets used are OEM. Distributor is a brand new "Cardone Select"
Any input is appreciated.
Once we put everything back together, I made sure to set the timing to spec and before I put on the valve cover, I did a valve adjustment and put that to spec as well. When I started it, it fired right up and purred like a kitten. Went out for a drive and everything seemed normal until we reached a stop.
Problem(s): The idle was a little higher than normal for a couple seconds, then dropped down to where it almost turned off, then restored itself to the normal 750 and stood there. The car does this at pretty much every other stop. It happens if you push in the clutch all the way while moving.
Also the car does not travel through the RPMs smoothly and is especially jerky while driving normally. After a couple days of driving, it threw a "P0172 Fuel System Too Rich" CEL but that CEL can be caused by a multitude of things.
Just yesterday my speedo stopped working sometime while driving home but I was told this could be caused by minor corrosion which I will be sure to check for tonight,
The Question:What can the problem be? Could it be the fuel map on the ECU not matching the slightly increased compression of the minime? New distributor not working quite right? An error on the wire tuck harness?
Side notes:
The car is absolutely fine while it is not moving. Idles fine, moves through the rpm's smoothly.
Using a head, intake manifold and injectors from a 96-98 Civic EX 5 speed, OBD2B P2P ECU, all gaskets used are OEM. Distributor is a brand new "Cardone Select"
Any input is appreciated.
Last edited by xd69; Jun 27, 2012 at 03:02 PM.
[QUOTE=xd69;47541949]Background: Did a mini me swap on a 99-00 Civic hatch. Got the head resurfaced and hot tanked before putting it on the y7 block. #1While I was there, I changed the water pump, timing belt and oil seals on the crank side and #2I also got a new distributor for it because the old one was going bad. While the harness was off, #3me and my friend went ahead and did a "wire tuck" (quite literally just rerouting wires so they aren't as visible, no removal of any components)#4 and made sure to solder every wire that needed to be shortened/lengthened.
Once we put everything back together, I made sure to set the timing to spec and before I put on the valve cover, I did a valve adjustment and put that to spec as well. When I started it, it fired right up and purred like a kitten. Went out for a drive and everything seemed normal until we reached a stop.
Problem(s): The idle was a little higher than normal for a couple seconds, then dropped down to where it almost turned off, then restored itself to the normal 750 and stood there. The car does this at pretty much every other stop. It happens if you push in the clutch all the way while moving.
What a list of problems this car could be going through right now..lol
#=area of issue
#1timing
#2ignition
#3wiring
at the bold without a number,the idling issue..
sounds like you are having a typical iacv(idle air control valve) or tps(throttle position sensor) problem..
remove and clean iacv
multimeter and confirm tps shows .5v and adjust accordingly if it does not.
Once we put everything back together, I made sure to set the timing to spec and before I put on the valve cover, I did a valve adjustment and put that to spec as well. When I started it, it fired right up and purred like a kitten. Went out for a drive and everything seemed normal until we reached a stop.
Problem(s): The idle was a little higher than normal for a couple seconds, then dropped down to where it almost turned off, then restored itself to the normal 750 and stood there. The car does this at pretty much every other stop. It happens if you push in the clutch all the way while moving.
What a list of problems this car could be going through right now..lol
#=area of issue
#1timing
#2ignition
#3wiring
at the bold without a number,the idling issue..
sounds like you are having a typical iacv(idle air control valve) or tps(throttle position sensor) problem..
remove and clean iacv
multimeter and confirm tps shows .5v and adjust accordingly if it does not.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,139
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From: Pico Rivera, CA
The rich problem turned out to be a leaking hose going to the EVAP.
The idle problem turned out to be a bad IACV.
The speedo problem was indeed slight corrosion on the connector
Confidence in wire tuck harness restored...
The idle problem turned out to be a bad IACV.
The speedo problem was indeed slight corrosion on the connector
Confidence in wire tuck harness restored...
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