It states I have to remove the camshaft pulleys as well to get to the rear timing cover in order to replace the h2o pump. Does this only apply to bseries vtec heads? Is this true for a b18b (RS)?
Just wondering if anyone had the helms diagrams scanned.

TIA

 

Changing the water pump is very easy. The pump housing is exposed once you remove the TB. There will be a few bolts holding the pump onto the block. Its pretty self explanatoty from there. Just do yourself a favor and make sure to use a torque wrench when tightening the water pump bolts. For the B16 the torque is 9ft-lbs. Im pretty sure the b18 water pump is the same. HTH


[Modified by Cory man, 8:24 PM 3/3/2003]

 

UH... the water pump is on the timing belt side of the motor. i just replace mine last weekend. This is how you do it..... remove belts and unbolt and move power steering pump (if equiped) remove spark plugs, valve cover and upper timing cover. set motor at TDC for #1 cylinder by rotating crank pulley (arrows will be pointing at each other and UP will appear at the top on both cam gears). remove 17mm crank pulley bolt, remove crank pulley (do not lose key). remove lower timing cover. If motor is in the car, place a jack with a piece of 2x4 under the oil pan and jack motor up just enough to remove drivers side upper motor mount. Loosen tensioner bolt 1/4 turn and pull tensioner back and retighten tensioner bolt. remove timing belt (probably a good idea to replace it while you have everything apart) There are 5 10mm bolts holding water pump on, remove bolts (keep track of which hole they thread into because there are different lengths and need to make sure they go back in the same place) gently pry up the water pump ( mine was stuck pretty good) then clean all of the gasket off of the block (make sure not to scratch or gouge the block) use lacquer thiner or acetone to remove any remaining residue. install new water pump and hand tighten bolts, then with a torque wrench tighten bolts down in a criss-cross pattern to 9 ft/lbs. Then reinstall timing belt starting with the oil pump at the bottom and working your way around the exhaust pulley, intake pulley, water pump and tensioner ( it's difficult, but just takes time and patience but it will go on.) make sure timing marks still line up and rotate motor through 6 full rotations (counterclock-wise) and confirm timing is still ok and put back together the same way it came apart. Hopefully this will help someone and keep them from having to pay someone else to do it for them, because believe me if i can do it anyone can.

 

Whuuuut? Y'all are funny, one says "it's on the TB side of the motor" and then the next guy is like "UUUMMMM it's on the timing belt side". Like, yeah TB == timing belt. Anyway its also worth mentioning that most (if not all) b-series also have an index mark on the crank pulley and block for #1 TDC and there are additional index marks on the cam gears which should also be right next to each other when at TDC on the compression stroke. Also, with regard to the varying bolt sizes on the water pump, 2 are longer and they go in the holes with the metal sleeves that double as aligning dowels for the water pump housing and the block. (pic is from my db2 official repair manual)

 

you just responded to a 17 year old post.

 

And was able to add new useful information (with docs). Your copy seems out of date, I even provided additional info about the housing bolts being different sizes. Considering this post is the highest ranking post for "b-series water pump" in google, I'd say useful updates are quite helpful.