warm start issues
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,314
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From: SW WA
warm start issues
car:
2000 civic ex, b18c5, ctr cams, obd1 "butt-dyno" tune with crome/off plx wideband, stock civic si exhaust manifold, catless, 2.5" catback, msd plug wires (about 5 years old).
problems:
1. if i drive my car to the gas station (or anywhere for that matter), and stop for a few minutes, run inside, run out, and start the car back up, it'll sputter pretty bad for a minute and if i don't give it gas it'll die. THAT problem will go away if i just give it enough gas to stay at say...3k-4k rpm and it "sounds" like it's running fine at those rpm.
2. car has recently developed a miss at idle
3. anything below about 2800rpm under any type of load will sputter pretty bad
what i've tried:
these problems are persistent after switching to an obd2b ecu (si), changing plugs, cap, rotor, fuel filter, fuel pump. it previously had a full msd ignition/coil setup and i thought the problem lied somewhere with that - but i changed to stock and the problem is still here. i pulled the plugs and they all look healthy with no real buildup on them except the #1 cylinder plug has a bit more carbon on it than the rest. there is no oil in water, no water in oil, and it doesn't burn a drop of either.
The car still runs amazing in VTEC and feels like it's not lost any power there..
before i aimlessly start changing sensors and buying crap that i probably don't need, i figured i'd get some opinions or help here.
Thanks
2000 civic ex, b18c5, ctr cams, obd1 "butt-dyno" tune with crome/off plx wideband, stock civic si exhaust manifold, catless, 2.5" catback, msd plug wires (about 5 years old).
problems:
1. if i drive my car to the gas station (or anywhere for that matter), and stop for a few minutes, run inside, run out, and start the car back up, it'll sputter pretty bad for a minute and if i don't give it gas it'll die. THAT problem will go away if i just give it enough gas to stay at say...3k-4k rpm and it "sounds" like it's running fine at those rpm.
2. car has recently developed a miss at idle
3. anything below about 2800rpm under any type of load will sputter pretty bad
what i've tried:
these problems are persistent after switching to an obd2b ecu (si), changing plugs, cap, rotor, fuel filter, fuel pump. it previously had a full msd ignition/coil setup and i thought the problem lied somewhere with that - but i changed to stock and the problem is still here. i pulled the plugs and they all look healthy with no real buildup on them except the #1 cylinder plug has a bit more carbon on it than the rest. there is no oil in water, no water in oil, and it doesn't burn a drop of either.
The car still runs amazing in VTEC and feels like it's not lost any power there..
before i aimlessly start changing sensors and buying crap that i probably don't need, i figured i'd get some opinions or help here.
Thanks
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,314
Likes: 0
From: SW WA
Re: warm start issues
As odd as it may sound, I was able to kinda fix this by cleaning the IACV.
I got impatient and didn't wait to let the IACV completely dry. I can probably narrow down my now apparent very rough idle to a IACV that I fudged up.
Either way had I waited for the thing to properly dry, I would probably have completely fixed my problem.
I got impatient and didn't wait to let the IACV completely dry. I can probably narrow down my now apparent very rough idle to a IACV that I fudged up.
Either way had I waited for the thing to properly dry, I would probably have completely fixed my problem.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Karachi Pakistan
Re: warm start issues
You can check two things.
1) Check the dynamo (Charger) if its giving required current at idle.
2) IACV ... before you clean it or open it up.., disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, open IACV and clean it using any thing like petrol itself or WD40 and let it dry and reinstall it.... then connect the battery and start the vehicle BUT DONT TURN ON ANY ELECTRICAL DEVICE... not even the radio... and leave the car start for 10 minutes so that the ECU can reprogram itself and learn the various inputs from IACV. after 10 minutes... turn off the car and then restart it... there you go every thing should be set.
1) Check the dynamo (Charger) if its giving required current at idle.
2) IACV ... before you clean it or open it up.., disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, open IACV and clean it using any thing like petrol itself or WD40 and let it dry and reinstall it.... then connect the battery and start the vehicle BUT DONT TURN ON ANY ELECTRICAL DEVICE... not even the radio... and leave the car start for 10 minutes so that the ECU can reprogram itself and learn the various inputs from IACV. after 10 minutes... turn off the car and then restart it... there you go every thing should be set.
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