Okay, so I do the compression test today...
220-215-225-175

The 175 is probably from a valve seal that never worked right... whoever had my head before had used something similar to GREEN LOCTITE for their valve seals... I honestly... I consider myself a decent mechanic as far as taking stuff apart an putting it back, I mean I've got forged bottom-end LS/VTEC but I can't diagnose sh1zz. :-/

Anyhow, the "valve seal" isn't that something like a rubber o-ring type deal that u put on the valve stem? And are they also called "valve stem seals" ?

If so, check this site out... http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...AD+%28V-TEC%29

And let me know which ones I need... TO MY KNOWLEDGE it is a 89 JDM b16a head... I think the 94 del sol VTEC seals would work, cuz it's a b16.

ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED I'M LOST ON THIS ONE.

 

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...RM+%28V-TEC%29 I think this is a little closer to what your looking for but I think that the part you're looking for is not on here either...try going to the Honda dealership near you and tell them what you need...cuz I can't remember...to tired to type

 

hehe ok thanks... the valve stem seals are on the page I put up but there's 2 diff. kinds... are the "valve stem seals" the ones I'm after?

Thanks,

Harry

 

valve seals wont affect comp tests.
if the valves arent sealing you have to pull the head and recondition them.

 

Yep, your low compression problem is not valve stem seals. Remember that the valves (if seating properly) are closed on the compression stroke. Look towards problems with the piston rings or valve seat sealing. Good luck

 

Valve seating probs? maybe carbon buildup not letting them close properly??? I hope so. :-/

Harry

the pistons/rings were done by a trusted machinist so they SHOULD be good.

Harry

 

just go to any honda dealership and give them your vin# off the motor. most any vtec seals will work. they cost like 4.20$ from the dealership.

 

Cool... But i guess like these guys say... it's not the valve seals if it's losing compression... I just thought it was them because someone used green loctite on them and I assumed that wasn't a good thing.

I know the machinist when I did the pistons and LS/VTEC deal said he had to grind down one of the valves or the valve seat or something, maybe he didn't do it right??? Should I go ahead and get 4 new valves so I know they'll be fresh?

Thanks everyone,

Harry

 

And also... does that mean I need to take my head off and have someone fix the valve seats? is this something that needs to be done at a machine shop? and what about carbon buildup? could it just be a lot of carbon that needs to be cleaned off?

I bought my head used and already used on an LS/VTEC motor... I wonder if they tried a 3-angle valve job or something like that and screwed it up... in that case, should I get oversized valves put in it?

Harry

 

Valve seals are there to prevent oil from going through the valve guides into the combustion chamber. If any work needs to be done to the valves or valve seats, yes, you need to pull the head. As far as low compression, you could be losing compression past your valves, or your piston rings. If you have doubts about the quality of the work performed on your cylinder head, I suggest taking the head to a machine shop that has experience with DOHC VTEC heads for repair. While the head is off, thoroughly inspect the cylinder walls for signs of scoring. Good luck.

 

Well I am hoping the rings are good... my numbers seem to be on target except for #4 cylinder.
But it's IMPOSSIBLE to lose compression through the valve guide/valve stem/valve seals, is this correct? I just can't grasp that. :-/

Anyhoo, There's nobody around that does Honda heads... If anybody knows a place near southwesten VA, Eastern KY, or anywhere in WV that does really good DOHC VTEC work let me know.

Harry

 

Also, these are new rings... 5000 km on them.

Harry

 

A cylinder leak down test will tell you where you are loosing compression. What it does is a regulated ammount of air is supplied to the cylinder with the piston at TDC on the compression stroke, through the spark plug hole, and there is a guage that displays the percentage of leak down. All you have to do is listen for where the air is escaping. If it is coming from the intake, it is the intake valve/s, from the exhaust, then it is the exhaust valve/s, if it is from the valve cover or oil cap then it is blowing past the rings. If there is bubbles in the cooling system then it is probably a bad head gasket. Hope that helps.

 

ok... so could I do the test without the percentage guage and just pump air in a listen?

Thanks.

Harry

 

yep. Just be sure you are at TDC on the compression stroke and that the piston doesn't move when you apply the air pressure to in. Use about 90PSI of air.

 

sweet... I'll do it t/m at the garage... can I hear it if its intake valves when I have the intake manifold off?

Harry

 

yeah..since you have the intake mani off..can you tell if there is carbon build up on the neck of the valve...since I just read your post it makes sense if there was carbon build up on the valve....if oil gets down there you'll get build up of carbon.....also doing a leak down with 90 psi even having the piston on perfect TDC might turn the engine over...if it does...just keep turning the regulator down until it doesnt turn over....post your results and Ill help ya out after that if you need it

 

Yeah try a leakdown test.

The reason the vale guide seals dont affect compression is because the compression is in the cylinder. The valve guide seals seal up high on the "stem" part of the valve between the Intake runner and the cam case part of the head. Vaccum on one side and oil on the other. Hope that helps.