Valve lash help on b16a head
I recently had some what you'd say "Cam issues"
I snaped my intake cam shaft in half. Even worse It was from Comp and it was a stage 2 cam, and well the company refused to replace the cam, so the hell with them.
I dont know if the breaking of the cam was it was from the previous owner's setup, or the fact the valve train was stock. But it happend and I'm upset about it. I have a set of stock b16a cams, and a set of stock GSR cams. I may be wrong, but I believe the GSR's are bigger. I would like to put these cams in. But sence I'm going to a slightly smaller cam, It would be greatly appricated if someone would tell me how much lash I need/or decrese. Last thing I want is to burn up some valves
. I have a small amount of knowlage due to reading a chiltons, and my cousen's UTI book, and from a honda builders handbook.
The vehical has-
b16a head
b18a1 bottem end with P30 pistons
12.6/1 compression
440 dsm injectors
and other odds and ends.
Note, I can only post 5 times. So please be specific or you can reach me at miyagison@hotmail.com I appricate your help.
I snaped my intake cam shaft in half. Even worse It was from Comp and it was a stage 2 cam, and well the company refused to replace the cam, so the hell with them.
I dont know if the breaking of the cam was it was from the previous owner's setup, or the fact the valve train was stock. But it happend and I'm upset about it. I have a set of stock b16a cams, and a set of stock GSR cams. I may be wrong, but I believe the GSR's are bigger. I would like to put these cams in. But sence I'm going to a slightly smaller cam, It would be greatly appricated if someone would tell me how much lash I need/or decrese. Last thing I want is to burn up some valves
. I have a small amount of knowlage due to reading a chiltons, and my cousen's UTI book, and from a honda builders handbook.The vehical has-
b16a head
b18a1 bottem end with P30 pistons
12.6/1 compression
440 dsm injectors
and other odds and ends.
Note, I can only post 5 times. So please be specific or you can reach me at miyagison@hotmail.com I appricate your help.
there is no way to set the lash by comparing it to the old lash... The only way to set it is to just do it.
When you get the cam into the appropriate position for whatever cyl you are adjusting, you take the measurement with feeler gauges... then adjust it from there doing each rocker and cyl individually.
any of the manuals should show the full process...
When you get the cam into the appropriate position for whatever cyl you are adjusting, you take the measurement with feeler gauges... then adjust it from there doing each rocker and cyl individually.
any of the manuals should show the full process...
as for the "special tool" I see it turns what looks like a screw (on top of valve) in which a flathead screwdriver goes into, and a 10mm wrench. Now when I losen/tighten the valve up, do I losen the screw also, or leave it alone and just losen/tighten the bolt?
Sorry If it seem's like your explaining this to a 3rd grader, But I want to get it RIGHT the first time.
Sorry If it seem's like your explaining this to a 3rd grader, But I want to get it RIGHT the first time.
The screw slot adjusts the clearance. The 10mm jam nut locks it. Amazon and others sell a tool to make this process easier.
http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade...&s=hi
http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade...&s=hi
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dustin_crxsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">as for the "special tool" I see it turns what looks like a screw (on top of valve) in which a flathead screwdriver goes into, and a 10mm wrench. Now when I losen/tighten the valve up, do I losen the screw also, or leave it alone and just losen/tighten the bolt?
Sorry If it seem's like your explaining this to a 3rd grader, But I want to get it RIGHT the first time.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You loosen the lock nut and adjust the screw to get the proper clearance with a feeler gauge. Then you hold the screw driver steady while you tighten the lock nut, taken care to not move the screw or over-tighten the lock nut. You can buy the tool or just use a box end wrench and flat head screwdriver.
You won't get it right the first time, mainly because you have to learn what the proper drag feels like. If you can get the next size up feeler gauge in you're too loose and if you can't get the next size down feeler gauge in you're too tight. It'll take you a few times. Just remember to take your time until you get used to the proceedure.
Sorry If it seem's like your explaining this to a 3rd grader, But I want to get it RIGHT the first time.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You loosen the lock nut and adjust the screw to get the proper clearance with a feeler gauge. Then you hold the screw driver steady while you tighten the lock nut, taken care to not move the screw or over-tighten the lock nut. You can buy the tool or just use a box end wrench and flat head screwdriver.
You won't get it right the first time, mainly because you have to learn what the proper drag feels like. If you can get the next size up feeler gauge in you're too loose and if you can't get the next size down feeler gauge in you're too tight. It'll take you a few times. Just remember to take your time until you get used to the proceedure.
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lonely_driver4
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May 27, 2019 06:54 AM




