<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nblanton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You are also going to have to disable the steering lock. . </TD></TR></TABLE>

easy just pull the ignition assembly off the column

 

Not easy to steal with the way I’ve wired mine, as it just looks like the panel runs accessories and other systems

 

So much help you're getting! The ign. switch has four positions: off, accessory, run, and start. Accessory lets you listen to the radio. The power windows don't work unless you turn the key to "run,". "Start" is the last slot, which the key pops back away from as soon as you quit pushing. Switch from "run" to "accessory," and the engine stops.

If you're racing, I'll assume you don't need the "accessory" position.

The ign. switch should have white, white(black stripe), black(yellow), black(white), and yellow wires. (According to my del Sol repair manual.)
You need a DPST toggle switch with the white wire (it's the common wire) connected to one side of both poles. The black(yellow) wire goes to the other side of one of the poles.
You also need a DPDT momentary switch. Connect the 2nd pole of the toggle to the center connector of the first pole of the momentary, and connect the yellow and white(black) wires to the Normally Closed contact.
Connect the white wire from the toggle switch to the center connector of the other pole of the momentary switch, and connect the black(white) wire to the Normally Open contact of that pole.

The white(black) is the accessories wire. and the yellow is (I think) all the stuff that only gets powered in the "run" position. The black(yellow) is probably what lets electricity go to the distributor. The ignition system cuts power to most of the car when you try to start it, but you can't cut ALL the power or there won't be any spark. That's why your two switches need to have some cross connections. Push the start button, and you cut power to the yellow and white(black) wires when you send power to the black(white) "start" wire.

It looks like most of the wires running to the ignition switch are fused for 10A or 15A, but the common wire's fused for 50A. I'm guessing that's what the starter solenoid is drawing. The momentary "start" switch will need to be rated for 50A, or you could add a relay that can switch 50A, and the start switch just would need to be rated for whatever that relay needs. The toggle switch can be 15A.

If I've plotted all this out correctly, to start the car, you'd flip the toggle from "off" to "run," then flip/press the "start" button to start the car. When you're done, flip the switch to "off" and the engine stops.

For a street car, you could put a second switch in series with the start switch, hidden somewhere in the car. If I were doing that, I'd probably tuck it up underneath the seat.