Okay, so I put an electric cutout on my car. Basically it works like this


It's pretty cool, cause I could keep my stock exhaust and still get more flow when I wanted to.

But I just picked up a Greddy PE 2.25", catback system and test pipe to run instead. That will be all the flow I would ever need on a my 2.1L hybrid engine I'm sure However, I have a sneaking suspicion this test pipe + PE combo is going to be loud as hell, so I got a crazy idea last night...

What if I took the cutout I have:


....and put it in between my header and test pipe? So basically I have a electronically controlled valve on my exhaust, that allows me to control the amount of restriction in the exhaust at the flick of a switch.

Now let's think this through. At wide open, the cutout will have a small bar through the center of the exhaust, but all gases will flow thought the cutout...

Now at full close we have a problem. You don't want to fully close the valve. But you can vary the position of the valve to anything, so you can run only partially closed...Perhaps I could cut the actual valve, say section off the top and bottom 1/4 of it, so that even at full close their is decent airflow. The restriciton would be to the center of the pipe.

Now what effect do we think this wll have on exhaust flow, and more specifically exhaust noise? I'm just thinking it would be nice to have a 'wide-open' setup, and a 'daily-driven' setup. And since it's so easy to change I think I would like it.

Anyways sorry for the long post... let's have your thoughts..

 

Figure out a way to hook it to your TPS sensor output so it's variable.

 

The valve does not open fast enough for that though. It talks about 4.3 seconds to go from fully open to fully closed. and it's like a forward/reverse action...so you would have to apply power for a given time period to get a given level of opening..like a power window


[Modified by satan_srv, 3:45 PM 12/18/2002]

 

I've seen this on a Camaro . Let us know how it turns out.

 

Just the cutout and a dump tube?

Or actually directly in an exhaust pipe to tune exhaust?

 

How much is that?

 

it's like $130

 

wire it up with your VTEC solenoid output and a relay, thats what I usually do ... heh, VTEC is progressively louder for some reason LOL

greg

 

but it takes so long to open....and how do you shut it off then?

 

it really was meant for the street racer when he was a bout to race, open the valve and then race, wasn't meant to be interactive ...

greg

 

exactly, but i'm thinking I can use it for two setups...

1. quieter, daily drive setup with more low end torque
2. Wide open all out.

And then I can just change it when I feel like it..

 

What if your gonna race and you leave it closed for take-off and mid range and then when the mph starts rising, hit the swith and it will still be helpfull even though it takes 4 seconds to open up. High end is where it will help the most.

P.S. They should also come out with a faster system that will perhaps work with VTEC. Just a thought


[Modified by TEGPOWER44, 4:59 AM 12/19/2002]

 

Using it the way I plan to...closing it all the way would destroy my motor pretty quick

 

I use a cutout in my setup right now. I chose to do that so when I race...I pop the cap open, and on the streets...I'll be quiet.

Before, I had a straight thru muffler with 2.5'' piping and a high flow cat. Now, I had the muffler shop place the cutout between the header/cat and take off the thermal muffler. Told em to put the quietest muffler they had. It must be worst than stock. Car struggles past 7K rpm with the cutout closed. With it open...it screams. This is a b18c1 motor btw.

Do you guys think it's harmful running such a shitty muffler? I know it chokes the motor higher rpms, but feels ok in the lower powerband. My main concern is simply noise.

Anyways...here's a another link for an electronic cutout...you can download a video of the plate opening/closing.

-Rod


[Modified by RK, 9:18 PM 12/18/2002]

 

how about this. Place the open switch in the gas peddle at WOT. And the valve close botton switch in the brake peddle.

When you taking off...make sure you hit the brake 4 seconds before you leave the line, so your sure its closed. Takes 4 seconds to open, buy then you will be up in RPM's and it will help.

<<<<NOBEL PRIZE WINNER

 

How hard is that to setup? Wiring it into the VTEC solenoid output and a relay??

 

Right...that's why I am saying you should maybe consider what I am proposing..

put your thermal back on, and actually make the cutout a part of the system...attach it directly to the end of the header, directly attach the high flow cat/testpipe to it...know what I mean...

Wide open is wide open.....then cut the valve so that at full close it is restrictive but not completely....

I think you would get even better performance this way than a side dump

 

I see what ur saying, but the problem is that the thermal can be pretty loud. Damn..decisions, decisions..

-Rod

 

I'll let you know what I come up with...the Greddy PE is really loud too...

If this can deaden sound and make low end power it would be great.

 

Where could you get one???

Thats a really good idea

-Brian

 

http://www.quicktimeperformance.com

or you can get manual ones from JC Whitney

 

I cant find it on jcwhitney.com...... where is it?

 

http://www.jcwhitney.com/product.jht...D=5199&BQ=jcw2

 

RK has done this mod to his car.

There's a better electric cutout made by some Grand National company. Comes with 3 yr warranty.

Jay Kim

 

So I talked to quicktime...

He can get me a faster motor. What do we think about a 15rpm motor?

Then it would take 1 second to open or close. I would set and rpm switch at say 4500rpms and a timed switch for 1 second. That would be badass!