It had been cutting out on my when the car got hot, and I narrowed the problem down to the ignitor. Changed the igniter, cap, rotor, plug wires, and plugs. I broke my last ECU chip, and got some more in today. I put one in, and when I turn the key on the LED light on my PR3 ECU stays solid. I try to start it, it cranks up and starts idling at about 1400. As soon as I touch the gas the car dies. I go home and get a Spoon chip I had, put it in. The ECU light blinks once and goes out. I get my hopes up. I try to start it, and it just cranks and cranks. I thought my firing order was messed up, forgetting that it had just started. I'm desperate, anyone have any ideas at all?

 

Pulled the coil off and tested it. The secondary windings had too much resistance. I replaced it, and still nothing. The black wire going to the coil should have 12 volts, because its coming from the ignition switch. My test light won't light up. I'm guessing its the ignition switch now, I'm going to try to run a hot wire to a toggle switch to + side of the coil tomorrow. I don't know what to do if that doesn't work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX PAT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I try to start it, it cranks up and starts idling at about 1400. As soon as I touch the gas the car dies. </TD></TR></TABLE>

My buddy from Madison had a problem just like that... he found out that the wiring to the distributor (from the harness) was backwards/ messed up.

Maybe you could check that out? Just a suggestion...

 

After testing the voltage on the black wire coming from the ignition switch and going into the positive side of the coil, I found the reading fluctuated every few seconds between 1.5 volts back to 11.8. I bypassed the black wire, and ran a wire straight from the battery to a switch, and reconnected it to the black wire right by the distributor. It worked, and I got home. On the way I was still throwing code 15. I don't understand how. Brand new coil, igniter, rotor, cap, plug wires, and plugs. WHAT THE HELL IS LEFT THAT COULD BE THROWING A CODE!?!? It shouldn't be throwing a code because I bypassed the ignition switch. Someone please help me.

 

Two questions:
1) Would a bad ignition switch cause me to throw code 15, even if it was bypassed?
2) What would the symptoms of a main relay be, and where is the main relay?