<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lsos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You guys are all a bunch of wimps. I fully back up BafMan on his driving habits. He bought a car and he uses it like it's meant to be. He's right, too....if Honda says the engine can do 9000rpms, they mean that that's what it can do for literally hundreds of hours, not once or twice on the weekends like so many people do. I know....I've seen the tests where they hold it at maximum power for hours and hours on end. I've also been driving like that for tens of thousands of miles myself, including racing and delivering pizzas, in the city, and my engines never burned a drop of oil. Hell....I just misshifted and had my GSR engine at 11000rpms. That's almost twice the stresses it was designed for. It still runs....205 compression all around. Stuff's messed up in there, but there's something to be said about the fact that it's even in one piece.

Seriously, if you people are afraid of taking your engines to the max, why do you spend money modifying them so that they put out even more? Maybe you should invest in a Mustang or something...

As to answer your question BafMan, theoretically you shouldn't even be in boost unless you're driving faster than your N/A engine would allow you. Therefore, you shouldn't have any long term reliability problems. This is theory though, I'm not sure how it works in practice....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks God! I totally agree with Lsos. A v'tec engine is almost two engines in one, and as you know the higher torque produced at about 7400rpm. Lets suppose that I run with 4th gear and 2500rpm, if I suddenly step on the gas the engine won't give me the torque and power that I need. But If I run with 3rd gear and 5600rpm the car will will accelerate faster indeed. So when I drive in a mountain road I use only 2nd and 3rd gear, instead of 4th and 5th. The example that I post upper may it's not the best. I had been in Germany in order to buy and transport a heavy trailer. I know that this isn't the best job for a Honda, but..... I was runing all the time with 5th gear and ~7500rpm (for 2hours) so to get the ideal torque in order to transfer that ****. I couldn't drive slower. My engine never dissapoint me. That is reliable engine! When I came back I replace the pistons and the valve springs, just for fun! THERE WASN'T ANY PROBLEM WITH MY ENGINE. I had some money in the bank and I decide to spend on that.
Now If we suppose that I had the car turbocharged, I would go with 3000rpm and I would have the same torque (as with 75000rpm N/A), but I think the engine would suffer alot. What's your point of view?

 

Again. I'm not stupid. On the JRSC, there is a bypass valve. The bypass valve lets boost out of the manifold during low throttle driving. You can go high rpm low throttle. Now, I know pretty much all I need to know for installation and maintainance of all performance parts.

Is a blow off valve a device used to release boost pressure when not needed (low throttle conditions)?
Does a boost controller take care of this in some light?

Somebody who knows their **** please respond! Ryan, oh Ryan where are you!? (Autry) ARTURBO, Knowledge please!

 

A BOV releases excess pressure when the throttle is suddenly shut (mostly shifting), when you let off the gas the throttle closes but the turbo or SC is still trying to push boost but it has nowhere to go, thus the BOV releases the pressure.

 

7k RPM on the S2000 is probably alright for a while but 2hrs?!? I wouldn't invest that much for a car and do that personally. Seems kinda like people who start their cars and rev them up to the redline right after turning the key - asking for trouble. If nothing happened (that you know of) to your engine, you're pretty lucky. My recommendation is learn some respect for your car before going turbo. On the other hand, if you do choose to go turbo and pick a good one, that might convice you not to spend all your time at 7k with the turbo adding some major torque down lower. Go with a small turbo with a fast spool and less top end, your engine will be much happier.

You've mentioned twice replacing pistons and valve springs just for fun. Who would ever think... hey i think I'll replace the pistons and valve springs today. Just kinda stuck out to me. If it isn't broke, don't fix it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KingDsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is a blow off valve a device used to release boost pressure when not needed (low throttle conditions)?
Does a boost controller take care of this in some light? </TD></TR></TABLE>

A turbo simply won't spool under low-throttle conditions. The engine needs to be under load (open throttle) to create enough exhaust to spool the turbo. There's also a wategate to regulate the boost if there is too much exhaust being made. The wastegate doesn't release boost pressure when not needed, it simply reroutes excess exhaust past the turbo.

As for running an engine under full load for long periods of time...they are designed for that. Sure an engine running at 7000 rpms won't last as long as one running 3500rpms, but it will not die twice as fast either. Most wear that occurs in engines is at startup when the enigine is cold and there's metal-to-metal contact. After that there's hardly any of that. The parts are also designed for pretty much infinite life under full-load fatigue.

The company I worked at tests engines under these conditions all the time because they build aftermarket parts for them. They straight up logged over 24hrs WOT@8500rpm on an S2000 engine and were planning for hundreds more. I left before they finished. They don't do just Honda engines, either. They don't even question the fact that the engines will last that long. They know they will. I myself had ran engines for long times at 6000rpms just because I had a Y1 transmission and was speeding. I'm talking 6hr trips at a time. 0 problems.

 

I know that running an engine @ 7300rpm for a long time isnt' good. But I just wanted to learn if a turbo engine can do that. I have a lot of friends with turbocharged cars. They stop every two hours when they are going to a trip. Don't suppose that I use to drive with v'tec enabled all the time!!!
Well I have two ways of tuning: The N/A and the turbo. The NA at about 280hp and 6000euro and the turbo at about 460hp and 8500euro. I think (1$+1euro) 460hp is enough for a 2litre engine that is why I'm a bit . Please reply me to that one: If I turbocharge my F20C @ 460hp (I don't know psi), do I need to change the drive shafts, or the differental? I think SPOON are the best.

 

 

lol stop that!!!

 

i think you should try it! I am sure that when you boost you will be able to get up to the rpms you like.. Its okay to boost for hours at a time. Try it and let us know how it goes!

 

the real problem arises with the raise egt's of the turbo setup... you will almost certainly do serious damage to any engine that's turboed by running it at or close to it's redline...

everything just gets too hot... if you had an oil/water cooled turbo a NASTY radiator and an oil cooler AND payed close attention to egt's then it shouldn't impossible... but it's certainly not a great idea....

Oh and when you're dealing with an almost all aluminum block/head... heat is NOT your friend...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88crx91integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> </TD></TR></TABLE>
Is that bitch you? You' re the first who admits that is a gay. You sent me the follow private message: "I take it on the as$". Sit here:

 

(3:57 PM 7/19/2003) BafMan: you take it from the ***
(8:15 PM 7/19/2003) 88crx91integra: i take it from the *** huh? do you mean i take it in the ***? i didnt anyone could take it from an ***. *CENSORED*

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by altoid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I ran my engine at 5500rpms for over an hour, i blew it up...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I ran mine at 4500 for about an hour. I spun a bearing. I ****** hate GSR's 5th gear. It's rediculous.

 

P.S. Bafman, where the hell are you from and who taught you english?

 

I think you should run at 8000 rpm, because then you'll be able to accelerate even faster...

http://www.engrish.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Burglar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">P.S. Bafman, where the hell are you from and who taught you english?</TD></TR></TABLE>

He's apparently in germany, so I would excuse his english...but, WHAT THE **** IS GOING ON HERE?! Your s2000 was not meant to tow trailers...let alone at 120+mph, or whatever the **** you were going at 7200 in fifth gear.

Anyway, if you weren't TOWING A TRAILER, let's say, driving at whatever the cars current topspeed is without a turbo, should put little more if any additional stress on the motor, since in theory you would not have to create any boost. In addition, it is fairly common for a cars EGT (exhaust gas temperature) to DECREASE when boosting in 5th (or in your case possibly 6th) gear, as opposed to steady cruising, because it will be running less lean.

I suppose I have driven my car at about 4500+rpm for a few hours (hauling my ***** through Texas), but 7200 seems kinda high, considering the factory gave you a 6th gear to drop that down a bit...

I think if you stop TOWING **** WITH A SPORTSCAR!!! you should be fine. sheesh

Christ almighty, I bet there is a link to this thread on some domestic board; "look at the stupid ricers".

 

i know the turbo or anything you get will be reliable very long driving 7k...shift man shift!!!! thats what 4th 5th 6th is there for.... as for the turbo if you want the power it may provide it all comes down on what your driving habits are...everyday driving i would say go with a smaller turbo that way it won't kill your wallets at the gas station...and don't forget the turbo timer very important...keeps the oil from cakeing inside the turbo...

 

A turbocharger creates too much HEAT to run "under Boost" for long periods of time, and/or under heavy loads- ie. weight, inclines, HOT weather conditions. Now cruising at 80-90 miles an hour under light throttle does NOT constitute these extreme conditions as long as it's done in say 5th gear. Accelerating and/or maintaining speed does not require BOOST, light throttle 15-25 percent may put you at 10-0 in/HG(vacuum) maybe small amounts of boost. Bottom line, turbo's are reliable but your car is going to be more susceptable to overheating under the HARD driving conditions you may be used to.

 

remind me to never buy your car on a trade in...a good owner never runs it at 7k rpms for trips

 

oil cokes not cakes

*edit* i guess it could also cook but thats another story

 

 

last i checked cakes was an english word also

 

[QUOTE=riceboixx]i know the turbo or anything you get will be reliable very long driving 7k...shift man shift!!!! QUOTE]
All of you are nothing but small stu*** kids with a fast car. You have that cars only for cruising, for events, and for catching women. YOU LIVE IN AMERICA, AND I LIVE IN EUROPE. It's totally different. You can't run over 60mph and you just select 6th gear @ 3000rpms. Also the roads there are very boring. Straight, straight, and then straight, and again straight...
Here you can't go with under 6000rpms. My S2000 sounds rediculous in Germany. The poorest has'got a PORCHE BOXTER S, I know my S is better, the medium has a CARRERA GT1 or a BMW M3, and some others FERRARIS and LAMBOS etc. Also If you go to ITALY don't scare if a FERRARI overtake you with 320kmh(200mph). In Germany there is no limit on highways and you can run with topspeed for over an hour(of course in the center line cause on the left you can't go slower than 160mph. That's the supercars line.) Of course there are a lot of mountains(do you know what a mountain is?????????????) I bet you've never driven in a mountain. There with a vtec engine you use only 1st 2nd and 3rd gear with high rpms. The engine is at the redline all the time, exept for a second when you shift. So don't tell me again (shift shift!) cause if you shift you will go forward the edge!
Also don't refer that stupid case with the trailer. I had to carry it. I had no choise, and I know is a bit unkind for a s2k.
I bet the first who will reply me will be that stupi# with the pics, and then I will see the real answers. Thanks to some of you who "support" me in that difficult time.

 

I hate to defend Bafman, cause seriously he doesn't seem to know much about cars and needs to learn more about it before modding it but here it goes:

V dub and other turbo cars do not come with stickers that say "do not drive boosted for long periods of time" or anything like that. They designed them to handle these conditions. Remember vw's and other cars a sold in Germany too where the Autobahn is taken into consideration.

Most of us have hondas which aren't turboed from the factory, we do what we can to beef them up but at 7000 + rpms and boosting, it just creates too much heat to sustain for long periods of time without long term damage. I could see the motor being able to drive for a while at that speed and boost but you ARE seriously shortening the life of the motor no matter what you think. If you don't care how long the motor lasts, boost all you want to whatever rpm you want. Just don't come back to HT crying when your motor lasts 6 months or a year or less than that!

The only way I could see this working is a very low boost levels, with lots of cooling upgrades.

 

dude why in the hell do you want to drive in 3rd gear @ 7000 rpm's ???? Hondas are built to be high revers. I run the dog **** outta my car...I take it to redline all the time ..I just dont hold it there for long. And staying at 7,000 rpm's you are gonna burn a ton of gas.