hi all, ive gotta 87 crx si d15a3, it used to run real hot until I changed the thermostat now it runs hot but not as bad. Is there any possibility there is a second thermostat where the upper rad hose goes to? The one I changed was going to the bottom radiator hose, the haynes manual says the thermostat is on the same part of the engine that the bleed valve is on. If thats true then it must be on the top! MINES on the bottom! WTF is this

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mavrick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... the haynes manual says the thermostat is on the same part of the engine that the bleed valve is on...</TD></TR></TABLE>That's true for some F-series engines, like my '98 Accord. NOT true for other engines. Some Hondas don't have a bleed valve at all. Burn that haynes book & get one from Helm.

There's ONLY ONE thermostat. But it's possible that your radiator is fouled. Or your temperature gauge is not accurate.

 

I would say the temperature guage is not accurate because it seems that if i drive with the fan on (I made a switch) it seems to get hotter then if i was to drive with it off.
Whats the deal?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mavrick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... because it seems that if i drive with the fan on (I made a switch) it seems to get hotter then if i was to drive with it off...</TD></TR></TABLE>Yeah, that would make me pretty suspicious.

Check the sender for temperature gauge. It should be a little thing with one wire on the side of the head. Dirty/loose/corroded wire connection? I suppose the proper way to test it is stick it in a pot of hot water with a thermometer. Helm book should say what resistance it's supposed to read at a few different temperatures.

That gauge & sender depends on the engine being grounded well. How's your engine-to-body ground wires? Wherever the instrument cluster is grounded, check that too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mavrick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would say the temperature guage is not accurate because it seems that if i drive with the fan on (I made a switch) it seems to get hotter then if i was to drive with it off.
Whats the deal?</TD></TR></TABLE>Make sure you didn't wire it backwards with the fan trying to push the air forwards.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tjbizzo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make sure you didn't wire it backwards with the fan trying to push the air forwards. </TD></TR></TABLE> Very good point.

 

I'm almost positive you cant do that with an OEM fan. The only way to do it is to break the power wire and use a togle switch.

 

thats what i did, i manually switched the fan, i didn't go by color to find the positive/negative i went by thickness of the wire because i thought that the thick wire was always the positive. Is it really even possible to wire the fan incorrectly? it would make plausable sense as i have 2 fans for my car seeing as its an SI with ac. I disconnected the ac fan in front of the radiator because it seemed to make the car hotter. am i jsut crazy?

 

also for the record the fan seems to be pusing air towards the engine block

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mavrick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also for the record the fan seems to be pusing air towards the engine block</TD></TR></TABLE>That's good.

 

the blue wire is power, teh black wire is ground.

 

is it even remotely possible that having the fan wired the wrong way make the car run hotter? and is the engine to body ground that single wire that sits ontop of the valve cover and runs to the body?

 

It's kinda funny. While you're driving (no stuck in traffic) the fan almost never runs. So the wiring doesn't matter in that case.

If you're driving slowly in traffic, and the fan decides to switch on, it would oppose the flow of air coming in the grille. So then it would quickly get even hotter. If you were stopped, it would pull hot air from the engine thru the radiator. Bad...

My 95 Integra had a small-ish ground wire from the valve cover to the body above the radiator. But there was also a much bigger one down near an engine mount. Look for another one about the same size as the battery cables.

 

what are you talking about

 

seriously. those have nothing to do with the radiator fan.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mavrick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what are you talking about</TD></TR></TABLE>I thought I was answering your questions. First, about whether the fan wired backwards can cause overheating (Yes, under some specific circumstances). But that doesn't really matter since yours isn't wired backwards. Second, about that small ground wire on the valve cover (it's probably not the only one).