Ok so it starts off with my distributor bearing going bad and rusting up. I drove around like for maybe about a 2 months before I actually had it checked out. The noise sounded like i twas coming from my tansmission so I wasn't really getting out of my seat to repair it cost I figured it would be costly.
So I have my mech. take a quick listen and he know right away it was my distributor. for me
So I get a new distributor and install it go to start the car and it won't start....
Timing slept..when I have no idea or how during just sitting there
I can't remember excalty but I think it was doing long slow cranks. I didn't a number of times hoping it would start. Had no guesses that it was my timing belt because I just drove the car one day ago with no problems before I changed the distributor.
So I take off the VC and notice my cams are not aligned. So my and a buddy do a quick aling TDC and start the car, and it starts. So I figure I might as well chande the belt since I haven't changed it in a while. But I lost my Wheel lock key
So I go out and buy a timing gun to check the timing and the white mark is not TDC.
What I need to do is rotate the distributor a little to fix that correct??

Now after I do that it is safe to say I can drive me car to Discount Tires to have them remove the lock w/out any issues with the motor (keeping in mind I don't know how much damage I have done to my motor from all those times of trying to start it).
Or should I just have it towed there??

 

If you changed your distributer, I think they can only go in one way (if it goes in two ways one will be obviously wrong once started), you should only have to set the timing. So how would the cams change postion in relation to the crank, you should not have to mess with aligning anything. Unless you think you might have strecthed your belt. In which case it may not be a good idea to drive, if the belt comes off while driving you could damage the head.

If you got it to start and it runs good/ no pinging or lugging you only need to check and maybe adjust the timing. With the car running point the light in at the balancer and get the line to match up with the mark, you do this by losening the distributor and turning it slowly. Then you should be fine to drive, if your worried about the belt coming off when driving, don't rev high at all and hope it stays on. Sounds like you should have someone check your work. I don't think you can mess up your motor trying to start it with just bad timing, so you probably did no harn in attempting to start your car over and over.

You will need to fix your car either way so I say fix it first so you don't have to tow it home too. Then you can change your belt. Do your water pump while your in there.
GL

 

Alright.
But when I do start the engine I do here sort of rumbling sound. Not pinging. The noise is coming from the rear driver side of the car. It is def. a sound that wasn't there before.

So here is what I have done since posting. I grounded D4 started the car and rotated the distributor so that the notch matched up on the plastic cover. It doens't totally match up but its about 1/2 a inch away...
Is this fine enough to drive.
I honestly could not figure out how the timing skipped all from just removing the distributor??

 

You may have streched the belt. I think you need to take off the timing belt cover and line everything up. I left you a message in IM. It may be slack in the belt, it lets the belt slap around. It sounds strange kind of like a rumble.

 

c00l

when i get home I'm going to fire it up and take some video of of what the car sounds like to see if anyone can figure out what it may be

 

did you put the clip on the #1 spark plug wire?

if the timing light is adjustable, put it to zero, and the light should flash on the red mark on the crank pulley.

it flashes on the white mark when you adjust the timing light to 16 or so.

the red mark is when spark happens, btdc, before top dead center. so it sparks first, then the crank continues rotating to tdc.

if the light isn't adjustable, just set it to flash on the red mark.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tom_l &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you put the clip on the #1 spark plug wire?

if the timing light is adjustable, put it to zero, and the light should flash on the red mark on the crank pulley.

it flashes on the white mark when you adjust the timing light to 16 or so.

the red mark is when spark happens, btdc, before top dead center. so it sparks first, then the crank continues rotating to tdc.

if the light isn't adjustable, just set it to flash on the red mark.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah it was on Spark #1
Non adjustable light though.
How do I set it to flash on the red mark because I didn't notice one while the light was flickering??

BTW does stuff like this happen regulary or was I just lucky