TOO MUCH TORQUE

I've been trying to find a solid answer but i keep getting mixed results whether the culprit is the throw out bearing or input shaft bearing.

My friend's 1997 integra ls makes a slight whirr noise in idle with the foot OFF the clutch. When you press the clutch in, the noise goes away. Is this the throw out bearing?
The drive train does not make any other noises.

Kaminsky

Bad throw out bearings only make noise when the clutch is pressed in. When you press the clutch in, the throwout bearing spins with the pressure plate. And when the clutch is not pressed in, the throw out bearing doesn't spin.

So your friend has a bad Input Shaft Bearing.

OneBadTurboCRV

That just isn't true at all. The TOB spins at all times whether it has load or not. TOB can make noise when there is no load and go away with load. So if you push down on the clutch pedal slightly and it goes away it is most likely the TOB. If it stays there it could be either the TOB (if severely worn) or ISB. Varying degrees of pressure may be needed. The sound will give you more insight as to which one it is. In any event, the transmission has to be removed for further inspection if the noise is positively coming from it.

TOO MUCH TORQUE

Thanks
It is the original drivetrain with 174k miles. Clutch still engages smooth and does not slip. When the time comes, i'll take it apart and inspect, thanks for your help.

slowcivic2k

The clutch pressed == clutch TOB noise.
The clutch released == transmission bearing noise, most notably the input shaft.

holmesnmanny

If you slowly push the clutch down and somewhere near the floor the noise goes away that's the input shaft slowing down, which means it's a bearing on the input shaft that's making noise. This normally means the input shaft bearing is the culprit, the inboard one. I like to replace both the inboard and the outboard bearings just to be on the safe side.

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

16 is the inboard bearing, you will also need 21 which is the seal. You will destroy the old seal when removing the bearing. You can tap the bearing out from the outside working in a circular motion. Then tap out the seal. Then working in a circular motion you can tap the new bearing back in working in a circular motion by tapping the outside of the bearing. It will slowly go back in.

But first gently tap in the seal using the same technique. Then the bearing.

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

17 is the outboard bearing, which normally will just lift right off the shaft but be careful you don't pull off the gear assembly, I've done that before and it's a pain for a beginner to put it back on. Keep track how you take this bearing off because one side if slightly concave. Put the new one back on the same way. I like to use a marker just to make a mark which side is up before I remove it.

When putting the case back together you will need to align the tab of part 11 with the ridge of the case so the case will go on otherwise the case will not get past that piece.

m4xwellmurd3r

They dont always. I always adjust my clutch on cable cars to a half inch or so of pedal play before the tob touches the pressure plate. I dont like the idea of that bearing constantly spinning at engine rpm and the small possibility of it riding the clutch

OneBadTurboCRV

Then it was adjusted wrong. Free play in the clutch pedal is NOT the same as TOB free play. Look at hydraulic clutches for instance, no way around it.

m4xwellmurd3r

Cable clutches need to be adjusted different. If you adjust the cable to where the tob rides on the clutch, then when you fully press on the clutch pedal you over extend the fork and end up pushing the pressure plate fingers into the clutch disc.

On cable clutch cars free play in the pedal IS the same as freeplay on the tob since theyre 100% mechanically linked. You cant have freeplay in the pedal without freeplay in the tob.

Its really just an issue with how honda made their cable trans setup. Mainly a B series trans problem, not sure if D series do the same thing.

Obviously on a hydro car things work a bit differently, and the tob will only get pushed back as far as the pressure plate fingers will push it, and you adjust the pedal rod so you get proper engagment/disengagment.

Edit: just checked my fsm for my da. It calls for up to .59in of pedal freeplay, and up to .20in of freeplay at the clutch arm, which is exactly how i adjust mine. When its adjusted like this you can hear and feel the tob touch the pressure plate then come off it.

TOO MUCH TORQUE

so much good info here, thanks!