I need to check if my temp gauge is working right because I had to remove the needles.

I know the middle is somewhere between 180 and 210 but what exactly is the whole range of the gauge? Is it 0 to 300 (middle being 190?)

 

Hope this helps:

 

I thought the ECT sensor (for ECU) didn't drive the gauge in the cluster. The gauge has it's own sender with a 1-wire connector. Maybe it has a different resistance/temperature curve?

 

I am teh suk:

 

So the gauge meters 185 ~ 212? or is that the middle "normal" temp?

I can't make sense out of that.

I'm trying to determine what the resolution of the gauge is because the datalog shows temp changes of up to 10 degrees and I can't see the gauge move almost at all.

 

That page is talking about diagnosing a gauge that just doesn't work. It sounds like you want to calibrate yours to actual temperatures...(?)

Find a rheostat in that range? (200 ohms) Put that between the wire & ground, & adjust it so the gauge is at several different points. Measure it's resistance at each point. Compare against that table of temperature & resistance.

Then maybe you have to complete the picture by hooking up your ohm-meter to the sender; & putting the sender in a pot of water with a thermometer.

Better yet, you just need to put the needle back on, right? Best is for someone with a working temperature gauge to do the rheostat thing. They tell you what resistance gives half-scale, then you set the same resistance & install the needle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boofster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the datalog shows temp changes of up to 10 degrees and I can't see the gauge move almost at all.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Then it's doing its job. The manual shows that everything between 185 and 212 gives 46-30 ohms. This is what makes the gauge move to the middle and stay there when the temperature of the coolant fluctuates. Keeps people from freaking out when they see it rise a bit as the thermostat opens and closes. To calibrate to a gauge to show the coolant temperature more accurately, you're going to need a different sensor, like the one used for the engine coolant temperature sensor that the ecu uses. It has a linear scale, instead of one with a flat spot in the middle. Think of it like the difference between a narrow band and wide band O2 sensor.